GC 0w30 5000 miles Chevy PU 5.3L

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BamBam,

I don't think there is enough info to draw any conclusions. I had similar numbers on an older Crown Vic. We did not figure out what the Pb or Cu sources were but the car ran fine to 100,000 miles. Don't worry about it, have Terry look at the numbers, and keep doing what you are doing.

Don
 
You really need another analysis on this engine and oil to start a trend. The lead is high, and the copper should be down some by 24K miles on the engine. Insoluables are low, TBN is good. Drive in comfort until you get your next analysis. I don't think anything is wrong with the GC, just we are seeing some trends overall on this oil in truck engines, and they are not all good.

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Thanks for calming my fears some Gents...I want this truck to last a long time and hope and pray there is nothing major wrong..

Would anybody give up on GC and go with something else???? RP 5w30,M1 0w40????

If not should I go 5k on this batch of GC???Would a shorter oci be in order...This batch of GC is of the 409 number...

Thanks again all,I was anticipating a sparkling UOA report and well it's a little unnerving...

I am sure I will hear from Terry monday....
 
Bambam/sewerman same person differnt computer..

Can my engine still be breaking in??? If so could it be because I switched to synthetic at 1500 miles??? Just a thought...
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It's not this analysis if thats what you are wondering .

My opinion is there are better bang for buck oils to take a 5.3 Chevy past 200k miles w/o being under it every 3k miles too .
 
quote:

Originally posted by Motorbike:
It's not this analysis if thats what you are wondering .

My opinion is there are better bang for buck oils to take a 5.3 Chevy past 200k miles w/o being under it every 3k miles too .


Care to make your reccomendation...I am all ears...PM if you want or here for all to read,whatever you desire...
 
In light of the fact that the difference in price between GC and the cheapest dino is only a few bucks, and that my crankcase only holds a few (5) quarts, I'd like to see an oil that outperforms GC in bang alone, not "bang for buck." Let's see one that does that. I still grit my teeth that the bottle says "Castrol" on the front, but you just can't wish away the consistently superior results this oil puts up. I might balk if it started heading up to redline price levels, but for now, I'm getting it for slightly less (effectively the same) price as M1. And my stash has continued to grow. . .
 
quote:

Originally posted by ekpolk:
In light of the fact that the difference in price between GC and the cheapest dino is only a few bucks, and that my crankcase only holds a few (5) quarts, I'd like to see an oil that outperforms GC in bang alone, not "bang for buck." Let's see one that does that. I still grit my teeth that the bottle says "Castrol" on the front, but you just can't wish away the consistently superior results this oil puts up. I might balk if it started heading up to redline price levels, but for now, I'm getting it for slightly less (effectively the same) price as M1. And my stash has continued to grow. . .

I use GC.
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We have not seen it put up superior results consistantly in this engine, however. There just isn't enought data here, to draw conclusions yet.

The Chevron in Motorbike's link does look good.

I think GC may look very good here though and this is just some Techron or slight bearing scratch that means nothing.
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[ December 06, 2004, 01:39 PM: Message edited by: haley10 ]
 
A little side issue. I recently had some dyno tuning done on my LS-1 and was shocked to see the amount of knock and knock retard happening with this motor. Not sure about the 5.3 truck engine, but the timing curve on the Vette was very aggresive in the lower RPM range (up to 4,200 RPM). Do you have any access to Autotap or any other software that will give you insight to what is going on? Also, you might consider premium for one OCI to see if it helps. In the end, I had my timing and fuel maps changed to get rid of all my spark knock and knock retard that the computer was doing as a result.
 
quote:

Originally posted by vettenuts:
A little side issue. I recently had some dyno tuning done on my LS-1 and was shocked to see the amount of knock and knock retard happening with this motor. Not sure about the 5.3 truck engine, but the timing curve on the Vette was very aggresive in the lower RPM range (up to 4,200 RPM). Do you have any access to Autotap or any other software that will give you insight to what is going on? Also, you might consider premium for one OCI to see if it helps. In the end, I had my timing and fuel maps changed to get rid of all my spark knock and knock retard that the computer was doing as a result.

How many miles are on your engine? I ask this because when I had my 98 Corvette dyno tuned, it had 32k on it and it initially showed 7 degrees of KR! We decided to check one of the plugs, and it looked pretty bad, the gaps had opened way up (due to missing platinum pucks). I put in 8 new plugs, and immediately the KR dropped to zero!

Another possibility is carbon buildup causing your KR. Run a steady diet of Fuel Power and this could go away too.

Taking out a lot of timing will obviously stop the KR, but you could be losing too much power by taking out more than is necessary. You don't want to go lower than 25 degrees total timing for instance.

What were your before/after dyno numbers? Mine was 280 going in, 291 coming out. (I also added a Z06 airbox though, so some of the gain possibly came from that, along with the new plugs) Where is your A/F ratio now? Mine is now at 13.0 to 1 at WOT.
 
bambam,
Stick with the GC for now. You are trying to solve a problem and if you change a bunch of variables and the problem goes away then you want know what the culprit was. High leas by itself doesn't always mean bearing trouble. Run the same oil out to to the same OCI. This time no Gas or fuel system additives. See what happens. Change one thing at a time.

Ditto on Terry knows his stuff.
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