G-O5

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Is GO-5 one of those coolants (like dex cool) that needs to have any other coolant (regular EG) drained from the system or can it be used in conjunction with conventional coolants?
 
It, and the new Prestone/SuperTech/Advance, probably are. But, if it's time to change, why not flush as much of the old brew out as possible? Besides, if there's 10% or more, by volume, of conventional antifreeze mixed with the new stuff (and keep in mind it's already exhausted or nearly so), it compromises the extended life anti-corrosion characteristics of the new stuff. You're better off starting the new juice with little more than leftover distilled water after a thorough flushing. At least that's what I think; your mileage may vary - literally.
 
Alright i just got 2 gallons of the stuff and plan to put it to use somtime soon. now im going to flush the whole system and refil with go-5. Waht benefits can i expect to see from it, how long should it last?

thanks

Also what color is it?
 
Color - very light yellow, but effectively clear once diluted. (Can be a bit tricky to judge level in the overflow bottle.)

Expected benefits - corrosion-free cooling systems over the anticipated coolant life (4 or 5 yrs.), and better tolerance to air in the system* than with GM Mr. Goodwrench or Havoline DEX-COOL. The jury's still out on the Prestone/SuperTech/Advance quasi-DEX-COOLS since they haven't been out that long. These three use a slightly different concoction of 2-EHA - another "OAT" compound (substituting potassium for sodium as the metallic ion), but none of us armchair experts really knows whether that substitution actually results in any performance improvement.

*G-05 does have silicates, though at reduced levels. The primary corrosion inhibitor is sodium benzoate, "OAT" - an "organic acid technology" compound. The presence of the silicates results in G-05 being a hybrid - "HOAT". Mercedes Benz, Ford, and DaimlerChrysler feel the HOAT technology's silicate presence allows for near-instant "repair" of any rupture in the "OAT" coating on bare cooling system metal until the "OAT" can re-establish its coating (a temporary "bandage" effect). The problems with DEX-COOL are believed by some to be related to GM's infamous, alleged, intake manifold gasket problems, as well as some apparently poorly designed pressure caps a few years ago. The speculation is that the combination may lead to air uptake into the cooling system during system cool-down, and, over time, expensive trouble. Finally, the Japanese take a different approach to the hybrid idea: NO silicates, but a generous dose of phosphates that also acts as a quick repair to dislodged OAT coating in all-aluminum systems. Japan's automakers feel the possibility of silicates coming out of solution as hard micro-precipitates risks premature water pump failure. (GM feels the same way about phosphates, too, as a threat to water pump life.) So, there you have it in a nutshell - three different approaches to cooling system protection, and we car owners are all in the same boat - paying our money and taking our chances over who'll eventually be proved right . . .
smile.gif
 
Ray H,

I enjoy/respect your apparent expertise on coolants. What is your background regarding this?? No flame/insult intended!

And secondly, off topic a bit, I have gotten the impression that these new generation coolants require very pure water (DI or distilled) to maintain their "fussier" chemistry. What's your opinion of this??? I see many people still recommending "garden hose" flushes with well water or softened water.

The old formulations recommended "clean" water, the new ones recommend distilled or DI.


Thanks!
 
No formal training as such. I've just immersed myself in a LOT of reading of available manufacturer literature online - especially MSDS data sheets when I can find 'em. As to water quality, tap water may actually be ok in some areas, but with de-ionized or distilled water, there's simply no question. The fact that you can buy distilled water at WalMart for ~60 cents per gallon makes it a no-brainer in my opinion. I don't know for a fact that the extended life concentrates are really fussier about the water used to dilute them to working concentration than old "simple green" was, but I suspect they could be since most owners will tend to "milk" the whole five years out of the stuff. (Silicates can deal with water that might contain corrosive mineral content, but the OAT antifreeze concentrates may be somewhat more vulnerable I suspect. HOAT concentrates may well be more tolerant - especially those with reduced silicate levels as their hybrid ingredient. Since the Japanese auto companies don't like silicates, it stands to reason that they recommend de-ionized or distilled water to dilute. Hyundai (and presumably their syster division, KIA) also recommend using distilled water. So, my droning on about distilled water is based on circumstantial and anecdotal evidence that's readily available online. I live in an area with exceptionally hard water, anyway. Softened water does not equate with de-ionized water. It's simply exchanged one ion, calcium, or another ion, sodium. I'm not sure, but sodium may be more corrosive to bare iron and possibly aluminim than calcium is. (Someone with a chemistry background, feel free to chime in on this.) Well water may "well" be harder than many people realize. (At least the water my municipality draws from its wells is certainly "hard".)

[ April 24, 2005, 07:06 PM: Message edited by: Ray H ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ray H:
The jury's still out on the Prestone/SuperTech/Advance quasi-DEX-COOLS since they haven't been out that long. These three use a slightly different concoction of 2-EHA - another "OAT" compound (substituting potassium for sodium as the metallic ion), but none of us armchair experts really knows whether that substitution actually results in any performance improvement.

Oops . . . Got that bass-ackward. The Prestone family of extended life antifreeze/coolants use sodium as the metallic ion in the organic acid salt. GM and Havoline DEX-COOL use potassium. Would've been less embarrasing to just not bother, but I'm an obsessive stickler about correcting my boo-boos when I discover them. Sorry 'bout that.
 
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