G.C. in a Nissan Frontier 3.3L?

[sdude2k2000]

I've gotta say taht I've learned a lot from this board... and am quite pleased with all the great info I find.

Now my question is... do you think that the 0w30 G.C. would be a wise choice for my motor? I've ALWAYS used 5w30/10w30 Mobil 1 -or- Royal Purple 10w30... but I keep hearing all these good things about the G.C. Do you guys think that it would be OK in my 3.3L Nissan v6 motor? Or am I better off "sticking to what's worked" ?

 

[John in the ATL]

Yes. GC is a good option for the Nissan V6. Based on what I have seen from Used Oil Analysis, these engines like a "heavier" 30 weight oil versus a thinner one like Mobil 1. Check the cSt (centistoke chart) for more clarification.

GC, Amsoil, and Redline are all heavier 30 weight oils. I am currently using the GC in my Maxima for an extended drain interval.

If you are insistent about using Mobil 1, stick with the 10w-30 in the colder months and add a quart or 2 of 15w-50 in the warmer months to thicken it up and get more ZDDP (zinc) anti wear additive. Mobil 1 is the best brand to mix since the different weights are more similar than other brands.

 

[sdude2k2000]

To my understanding... the G.C. is a pretty thick 0w30 oil, am I correct?

 

[ekpolk]

I've had great results going from M1 to GC in two Toyotas (V-6 Camry and Sequoia). I'm about to sample and dump the first fill of GC in my 3.5L G35. Results up shortly. Runs very nicely in my G, hope the objective #s are as good. You should be fine with the GC.

 

[Brons2]

quote:

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Originally posted by sdude2k2000:
To my understanding... the G.C. is a pretty thick 0w30 oil, am I correct?

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Around 12.0 cSt.

Most OTC dino 5w and 10w-30 are in the 10-11 range.

 

[berge]

I have same engine in a 99 Quest.
Used M1 5W30 then tried Esso 0W30. The engine seems a bit quieter with the Esso, other than that, no difference.
I swithced cause the Esso was dirt cheap, otherwise I would have happily stuck with M1 no question.
BTW. How do you like the dipstick in this thing?

 

[sdude2k2000]

quote:

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Originally posted by berge:
BTW. How do you like the dipstick in this thing?

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The dipstick sucks

It drives me insane everytime I need to check the oil, because it's nearly IMPOSSIBLE to get any kind of accurate reading. LOL

But anyhoot... any more feedback on the topic question is always appreciated.

 

[Al]

quote:

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Originally posted by sdude2k2000:
The dipstick sucks

It drives me insane everytime I need to check the oil, because it's nearly IMPOSSIBLE to get any kind of accurate reading.

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Boy you are right there. I used to change my son-in-law's Quest. If you can't read it the first time out..there's no point on putting it back in until the oil runs down along the inside of the dipstick tube.

I thought it was just me

 

[Shannow]

My experience with my Navara might be the same.

the dipstick has a 90 degree twist right above the "full" notch.

do an oi change, and you seem to have 2 or three levels. One low, and one way too high. About 5,000km into the change, you can see what's going on.

 

[sdude2k2000]

Well, I swung by AutoZone on my way home from work tonight & sure enough... they were LOADED with G.C.

Their 0w30 row was FULL of it (literally), and they had a row next to it about half full.

Their entire rack was full of it, so I picked out four-quarts for my next oil change! I'll keep you all posted on the results when I go ahead and do it.

 

[Christopher Jefferson]

yes itll be fine for your engine. GC's good for almost any engine, in fact.

honestly though, as a former Nissan mechanic (thank the Lord!

) I can say that this engine is good with ANY thicker syn. Xw-30 oil. But, IMHO, i think that youll be wasting money (sort of)by using GC over a HDEO 15w-40. I have used a quality HDEO in my Dad's 94 maxima (w/ the VG30E) for like the last 30-40K miles and the internals are now clean as a whistle.

Before, with the crappy dealer and "Iffy Lube" oils that he used, it had quite a bit of varnish and buildup, now only varnish is left. the build up is long gone and i did it for way cheaper than what syn oil wouldve cost for this particular engine. Og course, GC is fine for this vehicle but, unless youre wanting really long OCI's or, in cold areas, id go with a good HDEO 15w-40.

Ive used to use the Pennzoil Moly version ofLong-Life 15-40. Also, Chevron DELO 400 but, recently ive been using Shell Rotella T 15w-40 and have had about the same results as the others and its cheaper. Its also a group II+ oil. The new formulation of Delvac 1300 15w-40 may actually be a solid group III oil (this is only speculation of course) as Drive Clean is now group III.

anyways, this engine is relatively easy on oil although its sump capacity isnt great IMO. overall m since your model has a timing chain, it should give you tons of 100's of thousands of miles (or kilometers) of service w/out any trouble. the rest of the truck though, is another topic. hope your window regulators arent under recall!

 

[sdude2k2000]

quote:

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Originally posted by Christopher Jefferson:
overall m since your model has a timing chain, it should give you tons of 100's of thousands of miles (or kilometers) of service w/out any trouble.

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Actually... my truck has a timing belt which I just had replaced last week.

Costed me friggin $350

 

[Anthony]

350 is actually kind of cheap! Was it done by a dealer or independent mechanic? Did it include the timing belt tensioner and water pump? The vg v6s have a timing belt and the 4 cylinder frontiers have the timing chain. Either motor will give you 300k or more if you maintain it.

 

[sdude2k2000]

The water pump was fine (thank goodness), so I only needed the belt. The dealership did it for me too, so yeah, I guess in the end... $350 isn't too bad.

I keep up the service on my truck like it's nobody's business.

Every 15k miles I have it in for some sort of maintenance. Some of my buddies say I go overboard... but then again, I'm the one who never has any breakdown issues.

 

[sdude2k2000]

I did it! I dropped in the G.C. today w/ my K&N filter (courtesy of ajusa.com's great deals!) Immediately noticed how it quieted down my engine from the Mobil-1... and how it just seems to "feel" a little smoother (knock on wood). I'll keep you posted as time goes on... possibly with some UOA's.

 

[87nissanKC]

Hey what would u guys reccomend for the Ka24E 2.4L 4cyl motor? 15w-40 GC just seems a little thick for a 4 banger...but i could be mistaken. I'm still a newbie on the site.

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by 87nissanKC:
Hey what would u guys reccomend for the Ka24E 2.4L 4cyl motor? 15w-40 GC just seems a little thick for a 4 banger...but i could be mistaken. I'm still a newbie on the site.

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GC is not a 15w40 oil though, it's a 0w30. So it would work well for your engine.

 

[Drew]

I have owned both the 3.3 V6 and 2.4 Liter recently. The 3.3 was in a Nissan Xterra and the 2.4 was in a Nissan Stanza (92 model).

I used to use Mobil 1 10w-30 exclusively in both but had a lot of oil consumption problems but only when I was towing 3,000 lbs at 75 mpg. The engine also sounded much louder sorta like the Mobil 1 was too thin.

I had no oil consumption problems with the Mobil 1 in the 2.4 L engine even though it had over 100k.

I switched to GC Ow30 for both and the oil was MUCH better for towing in the Xterra and the Stanza ran well on it too. Oil consumption when I was towing at fast speeds stopped on the Xterra.

 

[87nissanKC]

Thanks guys sounds like it will be a good choice for my truck...Last question: For the area i live in would 0w-30 be a good weight? Winter i'm not worried about but summer we have days were it can reach 100F. I just want to be sure 0 weight is not going to be too thin. Thanks!

 

[pscholte]

quote:

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Originally posted by 87nissanKC:
Thanks guys sounds like it will be a good choice for my truck...Last question: For the area i live in would 0w-30 be a good weight? Winter i'm not worried about but summer we have days were it can reach 100F. I just want to be sure 0 weight is not going to be too thin. Thanks!

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Remember, it is not a "zero weight" at operating temperatures; the zeedub rating relates to its viscosity characterstics at around -35ºC not at your engine's normal operating temps; so the 0W rating is relevant at startup but not when the engine is warmed up...the fact that it is a "thick" 30 wt is important (the range for 30W runs from 9.3 to 12.499999999 centistokes at 100ºC and SLX (GC) is 12.1). Unless your owner's manual warns against a 0W30 under certain operating conditions, you're safe. BITOG members have heard this more than once but I will repeat it: I have used SLX in my twin-turbo Audi A6 2.7 while driving through Las Vegas at 80 mph and 100ºF followed by long-term operations in "The Springs" at temps in the 80s and 90s and with the strain that operating at 6500' in hilly terrain puts on an engine without consumption or performance issues.