FYI: 2011-2014 Honda Odyssey Front Brake Rotors

The Critic

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Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
How do you optimize runout with them there?
You can index the rotors 180º to get better runout I think but not 90º like without the screws.
Only on some models. This one only had one screw hole on the hub.
 
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We've had a few different Accords and a previous-generation Odyssey to the one you're dealing with. I want to say they've all had (2) screws but don't hold me to that....
 
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Toss the screw. My Pilot was an 05 so I have limited insight into the 20-teen issues. I had good luck with both OEM post-FF to GG change rotors and pads, and quality aftermarket parts. By "good luck" I mean years of operation, heavy duty bad-traffic commuting, many forced fast/hard stops, long life and no shudder ever. But then, I know how to do a proper brake job, and I do refuse to take advice from any forum "experts" who do not even understand runout.
 
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Please understand , these are brakes we are talking about . They are not manufactured to one millionth of an inch tolerances . My previous GM cars ( and probably the Fords , too ) came with those little spring metal " circles " / clips , on the lug nut studs , to hold the rotors / drums on . First brake work & they were broken , getting them off . Or lost / thrown away . Never put any of them back on . Never a problem . When I do brakes on our Lacrosse , I will probably re-install the little screws ( Just to keep it " stock " ) , with the understanding , they are not necessary . Oil them & then tighten them up just enough so the screw heads are a tad below flush . And still a little loose . They can not come out , they are held in place by the wheel & tire .
 

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Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Please understand , these are brakes we are talking about . They are not manufactured to one millionth of an inch tolerances . My previous GM cars ( and probably the Fords , too ) came with those little spring metal " circles " / clips , on the lug nut studs , to hold the rotors / drums on . First brake work & they were broken , getting them off . Or lost / thrown away . Never put any of them back on . Never a problem . When I do brakes on our Lacrosse , I will probably re-install the little screws ( Just to keep it " stock " ) , with the understanding , they are not necessary . Oil them & then tighten them up just enough so the screw heads are a tad below flush . And still a little loose . They can not come out , they are held in place by the wheel & tire .
When I work on a customer's car, I never "leave off" any parts. That is just poor workmanship. BTW, german cars typically use blue threadlocker on those screws.
 
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Michael, I was taught that when you are done, if you have any left over nuts, bolts, warshers, etc, just put them down the oil and they will find their way home... Just sayin'...
 

The Critic

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Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
Michael, I was taught that when you are done, if you have any left over nuts, bolts, warshers, etc, just put them down the oil and they will find their way home... Just sayin'...
LOL
 
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Our 2013 developed the judder as we had the old design rotors. The dealer resurfaced the rotors twice (like that's going to help, less mass to deal with the heat) but kept using the same factory pads. The pads are rated at EE, so unable to handle the heat and deposited all kinds of material on the rotor. Finally, the new design came out and the dealer installed them but again used the same pads. This was all within 18k miles from new. Eventually, I installed Raybestos EHT pads on the new design rotor and now at 80k with no issues. Put the same pads on the rear, they are really good pads that are rated at GG friction coefficient.
 

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Originally Posted by threeputtpar
Our 2013 developed the judder as we had the old design rotors. The dealer resurfaced the rotors twice (like that's going to help, less mass to deal with the heat) but kept using the same factory pads. The pads are rated at EE, so unable to handle the heat and deposited all kinds of material on the rotor. Finally, the new design came out and the dealer installed them but again used the same pads. This was all within 18k miles from new. Eventually, I installed Raybestos EHT pads on the new design rotor and now at 80k with no issues. Put the same pads on the rear, they are really good pads that are rated at GG friction coefficient.
The dealer pads had FF stamped on the side.
 
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