My 3/4 ton truck w/ 6 liter gas motor is a PITA to change the oil. I would like the Fumoto drain valve but their website says "some 6 liter Chevy trucks may experience problems with installing the valve dues to clearance problems". Does anyone have this valve on their 6 liter and does it work well ? Thanks for the input.
Fumoto drain valve - 6 liter Chevy
- Thread starter texasproud
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you can also try Frams sure drain, many people use it with no problems and it shouldn't have a clearance issue.
texasproud,
I use the FUMOTO on 3 autos and feel they are not cheap but are well made. Not goona strip any threads on Sunday with these babys! If you are keeping vehicle they are well worth it. If doing more than one then combine to save shipping on others. Don't listen to the NAYSAYERS who claim you MIGHT shear them off( unless you can't drive).Are you anywhere near Roundrock? Fumoto.com & expect to pay about $25 each.
I use the FUMOTO on 3 autos and feel they are not cheap but are well made. Not goona strip any threads on Sunday with these babys! If you are keeping vehicle they are well worth it. If doing more than one then combine to save shipping on others. Don't listen to the NAYSAYERS who claim you MIGHT shear them off( unless you can't drive).Are you anywhere near Roundrock? Fumoto.com & expect to pay about $25 each.
H2guru,
Thanks for the info and I agree with you on the quality of the valves. They appear to be well made and secure. My only issue will be the limited space between the exhaust crossover and the oil pan on my 6 liter Chevy. It will be tight. I want the valve installed so as to drain oil directly into an empty oil jug via a hose. RoundRock is approx 40 miles from home in Lampasas, Texas. I ordered the valve on line and paid $34 incl the adapter.
Thanks for the info and I agree with you on the quality of the valves. They appear to be well made and secure. My only issue will be the limited space between the exhaust crossover and the oil pan on my 6 liter Chevy. It will be tight. I want the valve installed so as to drain oil directly into an empty oil jug via a hose. RoundRock is approx 40 miles from home in Lampasas, Texas. I ordered the valve on line and paid $34 incl the adapter.
Texasproud,
I understand the issue of clearance with the Fumoto, and had this challenge 2 weeks ago with a Fumoto install on a Honda Ridgeline. The issue on the Ridgeline was also clearance to the exhaust. I had no issue getting the valve on (it also requires an extension, due to a recessed oil pan), but could not get a wrench on it to fully tighten it. I used a small wedge to 'move' the exhaust bend slightly and allow the wrench head clearance, and even this only allowed me very small turns on the Fumoto. The finished position of the value has the 'lever' on the top of the valve and anyone opening it will need gloves, as they will have to snake their fingers through the tight spacing between the valve and the exhaust pipe. If you can get fumoto's installed they are great, but I agree there are challenges with some installs.
I understand the issue of clearance with the Fumoto, and had this challenge 2 weeks ago with a Fumoto install on a Honda Ridgeline. The issue on the Ridgeline was also clearance to the exhaust. I had no issue getting the valve on (it also requires an extension, due to a recessed oil pan), but could not get a wrench on it to fully tighten it. I used a small wedge to 'move' the exhaust bend slightly and allow the wrench head clearance, and even this only allowed me very small turns on the Fumoto. The finished position of the value has the 'lever' on the top of the valve and anyone opening it will need gloves, as they will have to snake their fingers through the tight spacing between the valve and the exhaust pipe. If you can get fumoto's installed they are great, but I agree there are challenges with some installs.
Thanks for the info on the wedge...I will remember that come install time. BTW...those Ridgelines are nice trucks. With gas at $3...I should have looked into it rather than a 6 liter Chevy !! I understand that some folks have mounted the valve handle upside down or sideways to make access easier. I do not know if this would impair the safety feature but may make it easier to access the handle on your truck.
Installing the fumoto with the handle in different positions is something I'm not aware of. I installed a fumoto on my new Highlander this past weekend and I could only get the valve tight when the handle was on the bottom. I wanted the handle up or to the side and it would not work. I would have had to overtighten it by 1/4 turn and I had it very tight as it was. I never like to over-tighten pan bolts. Perhaps a crush washer would have taken up some space and allowed the valve to seat a 1/4 or 1/2 turn less and the valve would have been in the up position. I'll check it a the next change.
BTW. the Ridgeline is my brother in laws. I took the fumoto from my Mercury Mountaineer that is coming off lease and put it in his Ridgeline. All we added was the extension for the recessed oil pan. A recycled fumoto!
BTW. the Ridgeline is my brother in laws. I took the fumoto from my Mercury Mountaineer that is coming off lease and put it in his Ridgeline. All we added was the extension for the recessed oil pan. A recycled fumoto!
I also ordered the Fumoto and adapter for my Honda Ridgeline. I have yet to dump the factory fill so it is still there in its box. I went under there and indeed it looked like it might be a chore, especially when positioning the lever on top. So, a few weeks ago I emailed the supplier and he responded by saying that the lever will work right side up, sideways or even upside down - just tighten it snug (do not over tighten) and where it falls it falls. The only problem he saw in an upside down situation would be that some oil might catch your finger on the way as you are releasing the valve. I bought the model with nipple so I will have a hose on mine and so that should not be a problem.
I still do not understand the "wedge" to move the exhaust bend. Could you elaborate on that further H20024?
I still do not understand the "wedge" to move the exhaust bend. Could you elaborate on that further H20024?
Martyi,
When you get under the Ridgeline, you will need to have the F106 adapter already installed on the F106 Fumoto. I used a Honda crush washer between the adapter and the valve, because without it there was a space between the adapter and the valve. It may not have leaked, but I didn't like the space. I also used a crush washer between the completed unit and the pan.
The F106 Fumoto is rather big and I used a large adjustable wrench as I didn't have an open ended wrench large enough to fit around. I hand tightened the Fumoto and then started with the wrench. You will find that the wrench fits fine on the non-valve side of the Fumoto, but when you get to the valve side, you have to push the wrench in to get it to bite on the valve body, vs just the rounded valve itself. Then when you turn the wrench to tighten, the head of the wrench will hit the exhaust which is to the drivers side of the oil pan. I took a piece of wood and wedged it between the pan and the exhaust to get the exhaust to move enough to allow me to turn the wrench a little more each time. The wrench head is just too large for the space between the pan and the exhaust pipe, and the piece of wood allowed me to move it about 1 inch so I could get the wrench to turn. The fumoto valve ended up directly on the top, so to open it, I will have to get my fingers in the space between the exhaust and the pan. Definately need gloves. If you have an open ended wrench to fit the fumoto it may be easier, but I didn't and had to use a large adjustable.
When you get under the Ridgeline, you will need to have the F106 adapter already installed on the F106 Fumoto. I used a Honda crush washer between the adapter and the valve, because without it there was a space between the adapter and the valve. It may not have leaked, but I didn't like the space. I also used a crush washer between the completed unit and the pan.
The F106 Fumoto is rather big and I used a large adjustable wrench as I didn't have an open ended wrench large enough to fit around. I hand tightened the Fumoto and then started with the wrench. You will find that the wrench fits fine on the non-valve side of the Fumoto, but when you get to the valve side, you have to push the wrench in to get it to bite on the valve body, vs just the rounded valve itself. Then when you turn the wrench to tighten, the head of the wrench will hit the exhaust which is to the drivers side of the oil pan. I took a piece of wood and wedged it between the pan and the exhaust to get the exhaust to move enough to allow me to turn the wrench a little more each time. The wrench head is just too large for the space between the pan and the exhaust pipe, and the piece of wood allowed me to move it about 1 inch so I could get the wrench to turn. The fumoto valve ended up directly on the top, so to open it, I will have to get my fingers in the space between the exhaust and the pan. Definately need gloves. If you have an open ended wrench to fit the fumoto it may be easier, but I didn't and had to use a large adjustable.
Thanks H2, that is good information. The adapter I purchased along with the valve had a washer included, as did the valve itself. Metal to metal is never good for a seal so I plan on using the adapter washer between the adapter and pan, then the drain washer between the valve and adapter. This is also what the supplier suggested to me.
I can see the dilemma we will have with that valve on top. I went under there again tonight and held the unit flush with the drain plug. I can't see how my big fingers will ever fit between the exhaust and valve itself to open it if it is on top. Somehow I need to position the valve to be to the side or bottom since, as I indicated before, they said it will work in any position.
Also, because you want to drain the oil when warm, if the valve is on top you need stout gloves or you will burn yourself on the exhaust. This would make it nearly impossible to open. If I can't position the thing properly I might just forget it and stick with the installed drain plug.
I can see the dilemma we will have with that valve on top. I went under there again tonight and held the unit flush with the drain plug. I can't see how my big fingers will ever fit between the exhaust and valve itself to open it if it is on top. Somehow I need to position the valve to be to the side or bottom since, as I indicated before, they said it will work in any position.
Also, because you want to drain the oil when warm, if the valve is on top you need stout gloves or you will burn yourself on the exhaust. This would make it nearly impossible to open. If I can't position the thing properly I might just forget it and stick with the installed drain plug.
Martyi,
Just one more thing, in regards to the washer Fumoto supplies. It is a composite washer and for some reason, my experience has been that they seem to tear, and then the fumoto drips oil. I don't think I am overtightening, but the composite washer came apart when I used it on my Mountaineer and on the Highlander last weekend. Both times I had fresh oil in and had to clean the oil catch pan, take out the fumoto and reinstall, then put the oil back in. A real PITA. The washer is hard, but both times when it ripped, it was soft after oil hit it. I did notice on the Highlander that the drain plug hole had a groove in it and maybe that ripped the washer. I installed the fumoto on the Mountaineer and Highlander without a washer, on my Acura and on the Ridgeline I used a Honda crush washer. Could be my issue, and I'm doing something wrong, but be careful of the washer they supply. If it leaks, taking it back out after you just put in fresh oil....well you know!
Just one more thing, in regards to the washer Fumoto supplies. It is a composite washer and for some reason, my experience has been that they seem to tear, and then the fumoto drips oil. I don't think I am overtightening, but the composite washer came apart when I used it on my Mountaineer and on the Highlander last weekend. Both times I had fresh oil in and had to clean the oil catch pan, take out the fumoto and reinstall, then put the oil back in. A real PITA. The washer is hard, but both times when it ripped, it was soft after oil hit it. I did notice on the Highlander that the drain plug hole had a groove in it and maybe that ripped the washer. I installed the fumoto on the Mountaineer and Highlander without a washer, on my Acura and on the Ridgeline I used a Honda crush washer. Could be my issue, and I'm doing something wrong, but be careful of the washer they supply. If it leaks, taking it back out after you just put in fresh oil....well you know!
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