Full Synthetic and ZDDP.

[3311]

Hdeo or Defy 10w40. Cheap and easy.

 

[Umibozu]

Brad Penn is also another oil that is consistently high in ZDDP. It's a Syn-blend and is offered in your weights.

 

[BobsArmory]

+1 Get some Rotella T6 5w-40. Lots of ZDDP and detergents so you will not have to buy any additives. Your engine will be happy.

Originally Posted By: Bandito440

Additives are generally frowned upon here because they're not certified by any body like the API. Nobody can be completely sure what's in them and how they'll alter the performance of an oil. That being said, all motor oils that you'd buy off the shelf have ZDDP already, just in varying amounts. Modern passenger car oils have about 600-800 ppm. HDEOs like the recommended Rotella T6 have about 1200. So, if you found an additive that was entirely ZDDP, it would be compatible with any oil. The problem is not knowing what exactly is in the additive. So, why take the risk of using an additive when there is oil out there that will work without it? Rotella T6 has enough zinc already to meet your needs. A gallon of it at Wal-Mart costs about $21. You could add more ZDDP to it if you wanted to, but without knowing the contents of your additive, it may very well alter the performance unfavorably.

 

[Pig]

Originally Posted By: Thax

Originally Posted By: Pig

Amsoil is not available in my area and I am of the impatient type not to wait for oil to be snail mailed on the back of a 3 legged horse just cause they deem engine oil to be hazmat. I know there are various engine oils out there that have the ZDDP in it, but it's more scarce than hens teeth. Hence why I am looking for a compatible full synthetic that will blend well with the ZDDP. As an ASE Master Cert Tech with Factory Certs, I can tell you from personal exp. that Pennzoil was the sole cause of launched engines due to excessive wax build up. The VW/Audi 1.8Turbos do not like this oil and I have seen wax build up on the heads and I worked at a dealer where we had over 180 engines nuke. About 10% were Pennzoil cars based off of maintenance records and VW engineers said it wasn't oil but wax. Personally rebuilding engines cause of Pennzoil has made me distrust the brand.

Well you said it yourself , improper maintenance. The VW/Audi 1.8T require vw 502spec oils. These are thicker synthetics , thick 30 weight to 40 weight oils with a HTHS of 3.5 or greater. Of course a conventional oil which is run to a VW oci is going to sludge , especially on the sludge prone 1.8T. Any conventional oil stessed in such a environment will sludge be it Castrol , Valvoline or Pennzoil . It is not Pennzoil the oils fault rather the maintenance neglect, further more if you really want to get into it Pennzoil is perhaps the best conventional oil on the market. Instead of distrusting the oil for blown motors , distrust the engineers who spec such long oil change intervals or the consumer/dealers for not using the correct oil.Pennzoil aint the problem Sir.

Never said it was improper maintenance. The vehicles that got engines all had proper maintenance records. Had they not had the proper records, then VW/Audi would not warranty the engines. Since 180 cars at the time needed engines, I would venture a guess that these people had done the services as required by the manufacturer. BTW, the cause of the sludge build up was conventional engine oil in a 4 qt system on an engine that is turbocharged. Those engines regularly push 200F and the placement of the oil feed line to the turbo right above the exhaust manifold led much to the problem. The fix was a larger oil filter and a switch to full synthetic as per the TSB issued as of the direct result of this.

 

[Tempest]

Just use M1HM and be happy.

 

[Thax]

Originally Posted By: Pig

Originally Posted By: Thax

Originally Posted By: Pig

Amsoil is not available in my area and I am of the impatient type not to wait for oil to be snail mailed on the back of a 3 legged horse just cause they deem engine oil to be hazmat. I know there are various engine oils out there that have the ZDDP in it, but it's more scarce than hens teeth. Hence why I am looking for a compatible full synthetic that will blend well with the ZDDP. As an ASE Master Cert Tech with Factory Certs, I can tell you from personal exp. that Pennzoil was the sole cause of launched engines due to excessive wax build up. The VW/Audi 1.8Turbos do not like this oil and I have seen wax build up on the heads and I worked at a dealer where we had over 180 engines nuke. About 10% were Pennzoil cars based off of maintenance records and VW engineers said it wasn't oil but wax. Personally rebuilding engines cause of Pennzoil has made me distrust the brand.

Well you said it yourself , improper maintenance. The VW/Audi 1.8T require vw 502spec oils. These are thicker synthetics , thick 30 weight to 40 weight oils with a HTHS of 3.5 or greater. Of course a conventional oil which is run to a VW oci is going to sludge , especially on the sludge prone 1.8T. Any conventional oil stessed in such a environment will sludge be it Castrol , Valvoline or Pennzoil . It is not Pennzoil the oils fault rather the maintenance neglect, further more if you really want to get into it Pennzoil is perhaps the best conventional oil on the market. Instead of distrusting the oil for blown motors , distrust the engineers who spec such long oil change intervals or the consumer/dealers for not using the correct oil.Pennzoil aint the problem Sir.

Never said it was improper maintenance. The vehicles that got engines all had proper maintenance records. Had they not had the proper records, then VW/Audi would not warranty the engines. Since 180 cars at the time needed engines, I would venture a guess that these people had done the services as required by the manufacturer. BTW, the cause of the sludge build up was conventional engine oil in a 4 qt system on an engine that is turbocharged. Those engines regularly push 200F and the placement of the oil feed line to the turbo right above the exhaust manifold led much to the problem. The fix was a larger oil filter and a switch to full synthetic as per the TSB issued as of the direct result of this.

If this is the case it is the fault of the manufacturer to spec a conventional in such a engine , conventional oil is a poor choice for this engine regardless of the brand. Incorrectly specified oil at too long of a drain interval will surely result in a sludged motor. If as you say 10% of these blown motors were using Pennzoil , then Pennzoil is doing something okay considering that it is by far the highest sold and used crankcase oil in North America, what oil was the other 90% ?

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Thax

If this is the case it is the fault of the manufacturer to spec a conventional in such a engine , conventional oil is a poor choice for this engine regardless of the brand.

Or, up here, we had a dealer ignoring VW/Audi advice and using non-speced GTX in engines that should have been getting something like GC. Of course, such people could be covered, since they didn't screw up and they had service records. But, it's certainly not the fault of the oil. Again, that's why I change my own oil. There are enough people at dealerships and quick lubes that don't know capacities, API/ILSAC designations, grades, or how to appropriately tighten a filter or drain plug, much less know how to operate a Fumoto valve.

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: Darren270

Originally Posted By: A_Harman

Originally Posted By: ammolab

Valvoline VR1 comes as a Dino AND synthetic. The synthetic 10w-30 sounds like the oil you are looking for. Available at most auto stores.

No. There is VR1, which is conventional, and VR1 Synthetic. VR1 Synthetic has 1000 ppm of Phosphorous, which indicates how much zddp is in it. VR1 conventional has 1300 ppm of Phosphorous. The OP wants a high-zddp oil, which in my book, starts at 1200 ppm P.

Aren't you saying the exact same thing?

Not exactly. I was pointing out that the conventional version of VR1 has higher zddp than the synthetic. Synthetic VR1 is Valvoline Synpower with higher zddp and a blue dye. As it turns out, the OP wants to start out with a low-zddp synthetic, and add zddp. He could probably save some money by starting out with Synpower and adding the zddp.

 

[52pu]

Amsoil Tech Bulletin dated 8/3/07 #MO2007-08-08 The as of this bulletin Amsoil had the following levels of Zink & Phosphorus measured in PPM to protect Flat Tappet and Camshaft Lobe lubrication: AMO 10W40 synthetic premium protection Phos 1265ppm, Zink 1378ppm ARO 20w50 " Phos 1266, Zink 1379 HDD Series 3000 5w30 Diesel Oil Phos 1266, Zink 1379 TRO 20w50 Racing oil, Phos 1235, Zink 1370 AHR SAE 60 Racing Oil, Phos 1265, Zink 1375. AMSOIL Dealer 347836

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman

Originally Posted By: Darren270

Originally Posted By: A_Harman

Originally Posted By: ammolab

Valvoline VR1 comes as a Dino AND synthetic. The synthetic 10w-30 sounds like the oil you are looking for. Available at most auto stores.

No. There is VR1, which is conventional, and VR1 Synthetic. VR1 Synthetic has 1000 ppm of Phosphorous, which indicates how much zddp is in it. VR1 conventional has 1300 ppm of Phosphorous. The OP wants a high-zddp oil, which in my book, starts at 1200 ppm P.

Aren't you saying the exact same thing?

Not exactly. I was pointing out that the conventional version of VR1 has higher zddp than the synthetic. Synthetic VR1 is Valvoline Synpower with higher zddp and a blue dye. As it turns out, the OP wants to start out with a low-zddp synthetic, and add zddp. He could probably save some money by starting out with Synpower and adding the zddp.

I thought Valvoline VR1 had reduced detergent because race oils get changed frequently. Anyway, I also cast a vote for Shell RT6

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: artificialist

I thought Valvoline VR1 had reduced detergent because race oils get changed frequently.

I don't think it's quite a "pure" race oil like some of the offerings out there.

 

[cewrx7r1]

Mobile 1 Racing Royal Purple HPS Royal Purple Racing