Fuel economy and oil choices?

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Placing the crankcase under a vacuum does have some serious gains. Odd physics to that situation as well. Increasing the vacuum on the crankcase decreases oil pressure. It's just something to know when using a vacuum system. Not that hard to compensate for when you have an external pump with externally adjustable regulator.
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Problem comes in when too much vacuum is drawn and starts to starve the engine of splash lubrication. Wrist pins are usually the first to suffer.
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
One Percent?? Ain't gonna happen... And I'm not sure the .6% Ford quotes isn't the difference in 10W-40 vs 5W-20... Always paint the rosy picture when it's your agenda...



TSB 01-4-7

ISSUE:

Engine oil recommended for use in 2001 vehicles is SAE 5W-20 motor oil.
This oil has an improved formulation to improve fuel economy. This oil
can also be used to service some previous model year vehicles.

ACTION:

Use SAE 5W-20 engine oil at recommended oil change intervals for 2001
vehicles, with the exception of the following vehicles listed in the
"Exception 2001 Vehicles" chart.

All 2001 vehicles other than those listed in the "Exception 2001
Vehicles" chart are being filled with SAE 5W-20 motor oil at the factory
and should also be serviced with SAE 5W-20 oil.

Vehicle Application Listing Approved For SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil:

1995-2000 2.5L Contour/Mystique
1999-2001 2.5L Cougar 1996-2001 3.0L 4V Taurus/Sable
1999-2001 3.0L (Vulcan) Ranger (Flexible Fuel and Gas), Windstar,
Taurus/Sable (Flexible Fuel and Gas)
1996-1997 3.8L Thunderbird/Cougar
1996-2001 3.8L Mustang and 3.8L SPI Windstar
1997-2001 4.2L (SPI) F-150 (under 8500 GVW only), Econoline
1996-2001 4.6L 2V Mustang
1992-2001 4.6L Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis
1991-2001 4.6L Town Car
1994-1997 4.6L 2V Thunderbird/Cougar
1996-2001 4.6L 4V Mustang Cobra
1995-2001 4.6L Continental
1993-1998 4.6L 4V Mark VIII
1998-2001 5.4L 2V/4V Navigator
1997-2001 4.6L 2V Triton F-150/250 (under 8500 GVW only), Econoline,
Expedition
1997-2001 5.4L 2V F-150/250 (under 8500 GVW only), Expedition,
E-150/250/350, E-350 Chassis/RV/Cutaway
1997-2001 6.8L E-250/350, E-350 Chassis/RV/Cutaway
1999-2001 6.8L Super Duty F-Series 250 HD/350/450/550 Motorhome
2001 2.0L Zetec/2.0L SPI Focus
2001 2.0L Zetec/3.0L Escape
2001 2.0L SPI Escort
2000-2001 5.4L/6.8L Excursion
2000-2001 3.0L Lincoln LS
2001 2.0L Zetec Escort ZX2

NOTE: THE "EXCEPTION 2001 VEHICLES" SHOULD BE SERVICED WITH SAE 5W-30
MOTOR OIL.

Exception 2001 Vehicles:

Engine Vehicle
2.5L Ranger
3.3L Villager
3.9L Lincoln LS
4.0L Ranger, Explorer/Mountaineer, Explorer Sport, and Explorer Sport
Trac
5.0L Explorer/Mountaineer

NOTE: IF VEHICLE IS NOT LISTED IN THIS APPLICATION, SAE 5W-30 OIL IS
RECOMMENDED. REFER TO TSB 99-8-16.

The following Q $ A's were originally posted to the Mustang newsgroup
months ago -

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS REGARDING MOTOR OIL .... [ info on ATF deleted ]

Q. Why did Motorcraft release SAE 5W-20 motor oil?

A. It was the right thing to do for the consumer and for the
environment. It was one of Ford's first steps in improving the fuel
economy of our SUVs by 25% by the 2005 calendar year. SAE 5W-20 improves
fuel consumption by approximately 0.6 percent.
For the 2001 fleet, this
amounts to reducing fuel usage by more than 21 million gallons per year.
This reduction in gasoline consumption leads to a reduction in carbon
dioxide emissions by 190,000 metric tons per year, which is equivalent
to taking nearly 23,100 cars and trucks off the road each year.

Q. Is there really a difference in quality between 5W-20 and 5W-30?

A. It is important to separate the differences in viscosity grade, and
also the differences in the performance standards set by the
International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC)
and the accompanying American Petroleum Institute (API) performance
categories to answer this question.

First, SAE 5W-20 oils are slightly less viscous at operating temperature
than SAE 5W-30 oils. This reduction in viscous drag contributes to
reduced friction in the engine and thus improved fuel economy for an SAE
5W-20.

Second, there are differences between the present ILSAC GF-2 standard
(GF stands for gasoline fueled) and the soon to be commercialized GF-3
standard. The performance of a GF-3 oil will be significantly improved
over a GF-2 oil. When Motorcraft released it's SAE 5W-20 formulation we
wanted it to perform at the GF-3 level; but the GF-3 spec had not been
finalized, so we 'guesstimated' what GF-3 would look like. In so doing
we doubled the length of the standard dynamometer Sequence IIIE test
(which duplicates high temperature trailer towing) which increases wear
protection and reduces oil thickening. While GF-3 also improves on the
standard GF-2 Sequence IIIE test, it went nowhere near as far as Ford
did. This provides Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 with a significant increase over
'standard' GF-3 oils, which most SAE 5W-30 oils will meet.

Taking all this into account, the Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 will be a
significant improvement over most SAE 5W-30 oils.

Q. Does the difference in price between Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 and SAE
5W-30 really reflect a better oil?

A. Yes. The better base oils, and increased additives such as friction
modifiers and anti-oxidants used to formulate for the performance levels
in the SAE 5W-20 do cost more, but reflect the significant increase in
performance.

Q. What Ford and Lincoln/Mercury vehicles use SAE 5W-20 oil?

A. Approximately 80% of 2001 models should be serviced with SAE 5W-20
oils. By 2003 model year all Ford and Lincoln Mercury vehicles will be
filled with SAE 5W-20 at the factory. But there are a significant number
of older vehicles, some as old as 1991 models where Ford now recommends
servicing with SAE 5W-20. Refer to the chart listed in Technical Service
Bulletin Article No. 01-4-7 for details of which older models should use
SAE 5W-20 and for the 2001 'exception' models which should continue to
use SAE 5W-30.

Q. What happens if someone uses SAE 5W-20 in older vehicles?

A. As stated before some older vehicles have been approved for SAE
5W-20. However, there are many older vehicles not covered by TSB 01-4-7,
and Ford is presently testing these to determine whether durability and
performance would be compromised if SAE 5W-20 was used. Until this
testing is successfully completed (and a TSB is published to this
effect), it is not recommended using SAE 5W-20 in an older model unless
specifically mentioned in TSB 01-4-7.

Q. Is Motorcraft the only brand for SAE 5W-20 motor oil?

A. No. Although SAE 5W-20 is not yet a popular viscosity grade, major
marketers including Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Exxon and others
have either already begun marketing an SAE 5W-20 or have plans to do so.
Customers should find this viscosity grade increasingly available in
coming months, including at some retail outlets.

Q. Will SAE 5W-20 provide longer oil change intervals?

A. At the present time Ford recommends no change to the existing drain
interval for SAE 5W-20. However, Ford is investigating allowing longer
drain intervals since the performance level of Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 is
significantly better than today's GF-2 oils.

Q. Why does Wal-Mart have Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 so much cheaper than
dealers can now buy it?

A. Oil and Filter change is the number one Do-It-Yourself repair. Many
Ford Motor Company customers are avid Do-It-Yourselfers. Some may
purchase required products from our franchised dealerships, however,
most prefer to purchase products available at mass merchandisers. If our
product is not available they will buy other brands available at these
retailers. Ford Motor Company has an obligation to the EPA to ensure all
of our customers have access to this new oil and Wal-Mart is one of
several retailers carrying Motorcraft products. Wal-Mart bought several
truckloads of Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 at the original introductory price.
These original quantities are still available at Wal-Mart. As Wal-Mart
re-orders Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 in the future they will purchase it at
the increased price.

[ ATF Info Deleted ]
 
When I first bought my Fusion and Focus I used M1 5-30 for 2-3 OCIs. Both engines were already broke in. I then switched to M1 0-20 and did notice a slight gain in MPG, especially with Interstate driving.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
When I first bought my Fusion and Focus I used M1 5-30 for 2-3 OCIs. Both engines were already broke in. I then switched to M1 0-20 and did notice a slight gain in MPG, especially with Interstate driving.


How much was that slight?
 
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
The largest boost to fuel mileage I have been able to document happens when my wife does not operate the vehicle. I can easily run up 10% better mileage, on anything we both drive, than she manages to get.

Your wife sounds like fun... I easily get maybe 75% of what my wife can...
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
I'll swap engine life for 1 MPG any day.


I guess that would depend on the engine and use. A factory rebuilt crate engine for my semi truck is around $20K. A simple 1 mpg difference for me in a typical year is around $9-$10K in fuel cost. Most heavy truck engines, if driven and maintained properly, will easily bust 1 million miles before needing some serious work. Given an average 135,000 miles a year I typically do with my trucks, that means the life expectancy should be a minimum 7 years on average. In that time, at a simple 1 mpg savings, it would net me almost $70K in fuel cost savings. A crate replacement engine of $20K from that and I net a $50K savings over that 7 years. Sometimes it does pay to be a bean counter. And I haven't even touched on the improved life of tires, brakes, and the overall drivetrain that benefits from driving properly to tweak out that extra 1 mpg fuel savings. Cumulatively, things can add up pretty quick.
 
I run 5W-20(factory recommended) synthetic in my 5.7L Hemi.

Another aid in better MPGs is keeping the tire air pressure at or slightly higher than factory recommendations. The air pressure should be adjusted as seasonal ambient temps change too.

Dan
 
Smart planning and proper maintenance is more effective than one grade of oil for mpg improvement IMO some are listed below.

Pump up your tires to correct pressure

Change spark plugs/ leads etc

Change air filter

Remove excess unnecessary weight from vehicle

Make sure exhaust system is not restricted and oxygen sensors are function correctly

Use correct/ OEM recommended fuel grade

Leave in off peak driving time and select least congested driving route

Drive at or below 90kmphr on open road if traffic conditions allow
 
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LOL our in town interstate are 55(Norfolk & Va Beach) & 60 mph(everywhere else), if you don't run 70 you'll get knocked off the road by someone running 80...

Me? I could care less about MPG, get me there as quickly and comfortably as possible, I'm happy...
 
Originally Posted By: deoxy4
I have an interest in maintaining my vehicle in good working order but I am no expert in oil chemistry, nor do I want to be.

I remember reading an article claims about motor oils and fuel economy. It made claims about oil viscosity and claims about synthetic versus dino oil and fuel mileage.

In a nut shell:

1. Lowering the viscosity of an oil a grade could result in a fuel increase of 1-2%. Let's say for example, running a 5W-20 oil will result in a 1-2% increase over a 5W-30 from the same manufacturer and type of oil.

2. Running a synthetic oil could result in a 3-5% increase in fuel economy over a dino oil of the same viscosity.

I understand there are lot's of variables but in general are these claims realistic? I am not trying to fuel a thin versus thick debate.

Do these claims make sense or not?


gas + oil = FE nirvana. The quality of oil remains constant but the quality of gas pumps varies. This is the primary and chief reason why it is impossible to guage and control gas mileage. Not so much the oil (once you choose the most energy conserving and best additive pack conducive to FE et et all) but the gas. And the variation or changes are there ven if you choose top tier fuel. What I do is I run with one gas station until the quality takes a dump and then I change to the same brand but different location to see if I can get a standard deviation change for the positive.
 
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: deoxy4
In a nut shell:

1. Lowering the viscosity of an oil a grade could result in a fuel increase of 1-2%. Let's say for example, running a 5W-20 oil will result in a 1-2% increase over a 5W-30 from the same manufacturer and type of oil.


Here's a chart from one of the oil development task forces...You can compare the relevant grades in question to get a feel for the relative shift between grades.
FEViscosity.jpg


Originally Posted By: deoxy4
2. Running a synthetic oil could result in a 3-5% increase in fuel economy over a dino oil of the same viscosity.


It's been positied by one BITOG member that you would see 4% between a "regular" 0W20 and TGMO, but claims like that WITHIN a grade are pretty well bunk.


This, plus the 0.6% figure from Ford pretty much sums it up IMHO. Is there a MPG benefit with a thinner oil? Yes. But going from a 5w-30 to a 5w-20 is not going to give you a noticeable gain, nor one that would be measurable by your average consumer. It is measurable by the OEM under controlled conditions and is subsequently relevant to them for CAFE reasons as noted in the remarks cited from Ford.

To put this in perspective, going by Ford's number, if you had a car that got 30Mpg on 5w-30, switching to 5w-20 will yield 30.18Mpg. The consumer does not have equipment sensitive enough to measure that sort of gain and factoring in the variability in your service station fuel pumps, driving style, tire inflation, ambient temperature, humidity....etc it is impossible to correlate viscosity with economy.

For the consumer things like tire pressure and driving style are far bigger inputs to observed economy than lubricant selection. For the OEM, who has already go those things sorted on their side because their test conditions are controlled, chasing viscosity for CAFE makes sense.
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
The largest boost to fuel mileage I have been able to document happens when my wife does not operate the vehicle. I can easily run up 10% better mileage, on anything we both drive, than she manages to get.

Your wife sounds like fun... I easily get maybe 75% of what my wife can...


The trick is to avoid using the brakes. So....Not slowing for turns, and keeping your speed, is the best way to increase mileage. Every time you use the brakes, you have to use the gas to get back to speed. She uses the brakes in a lot of situations where I just coast.....
 
Wives often brake for the thought of a problem. Then the brake late and a bit harder. Then of course accelerate a bit harder to get back up to speed. I've often noticed that they don't use the cruise control and don't look for spots in adjacent lanes where they could keep same speed w/o braking ...
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
I'd stick with the manufacturer's requirements and look toward my own driving habits for improvements in fuel mileage.

Commuting over the same route can be boring. Trying to get better fuel mileage can make it more interesting. It's a safer game than texting.


+1

As you and others have noted, driving habits have a major impact on fuel use.
Avoid unnecessary acceleration and braking and you can easily see a 5-10% improvement in fuel economy with any light vehicle.
Ticking off following dimbulb drivers who can't figure out why you're coasting toward that bright red light ahead is only an added benefit.
 
In my cars and work trucks, I've never been able to see a difference between conventional, semi-synthetic and full synthetic motor oil as far as one keeping the engine cleaner than another or one giving documented better fuel economy over another. I just stick with the name brands and follow the manufacturers oil change intervals. Too many variables involved during driving to get consistent results.
 
Originally Posted By: Stewie
Originally Posted By: tig1
When I first bought my Fusion and Focus I used M1 5-30 for 2-3 OCIs. Both engines were already broke in. I then switched to M1 0-20 and did notice a slight gain in MPG, especially with Interstate driving.


How much was that slight?


1-1.5 MPG.
 
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
The quality of oil remains constant but the quality of gas pumps varies. This is the primary and chief reason why it is impossible to guage and control gas mileage.

Did someone just hack your account?
whistle.gif
 
Driving habits impact fuel consumption more than any other factor that you have control over. Even your mood can affect fuel economy.

Aerodynamics, external weather and temperatures, road surface all account for a portion of the way your car consumes fuel.

If you were to tweak EVERYTHING you could on your car (aero mods..grill blocking, belly pans...the best eco tires, weight reduction etc) it could all be done away with a stiff side wind in an instant.

How do they calculate the 0.6% (which is really nothing BTW... on 50mpg = 50.3mpg)? Put your car in a lab environment, perfect fuel, air temps, wheels on rollers, measure before and after an oil change grade and you can get it. Real world driving...not a chance.

Oil...doesn't even factor in for real world fuel economy. I have logged hundreds of thousands of miles on the same route day in and out all year round for 10 years and have tried 0w20, 0w30 and 0w40 and it doesn't make a blink of difference compared to everything else.
 
Originally Posted By: Smokescreen
Driving habits impact fuel consumption more than any other factor that you have control over. Even your mood can affect fuel economy.

Aerodynamics, external weather and temperatures, road surface all account for a portion of the way your car consumes fuel.

If you were to tweak EVERYTHING you could on your car (aero mods..grill blocking, belly pans...the best eco tires, weight reduction etc) it could all be done away with a stiff side wind in an instant.

How do they calculate the 0.6% (which is really nothing BTW... on 50mpg = 50.3mpg)? Put your car in a lab environment, perfect fuel, air temps, wheels on rollers, measure before and after an oil change grade and you can get it. Real world driving...not a chance.

Oil...doesn't even factor in for real world fuel economy. I have logged hundreds of thousands of miles on the same route day in and out all year round for 10 years and have tried 0w20, 0w30 and 0w40 and it doesn't make a blink of difference compared to everything else.


In 2014 we burned just under 375M gallons per day. If 10% of drivers switched to this 0.6% fuel saving oil, 225k less gallons of gas being consumed per day. While that is a small portion of the total fuel consumed it is still a net reduction in fuel usage.

As to the impact of road conditions etc--it should still be +0.6%, even if other conditions contribute a separate -10%. Not unless if the 0W20 causes increased fuel consumption at high engine loading or somesuch.

I agree, if I wanted to save on fuel, the best ticket is to examine the right foot. But I won't dismiss evidence that says thinner oils help. Ford measured it somehow, so the effect must be real, even if I lack the ability to measure it.
 
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