that was a turbo application if we are referring to the same sample. I think the turbo killed that oil in that one test. Check out the oil analysis spreadsheet from BillGXE, none of the 5w-30 Castrol samples sheared down that much in 3000-4000 mile drains. I think they all stayed in the high 11's from intial mid 12's starting point, not bad IMO.quote:
Originally posted by Bror Jace:
"Castrol GTX 5w-30 is a good 12.7 vis, at the high end of the 30 scale, can't ask for more than that."
Um, didn't someone post a result here a month ago showing that castrol GTX 5W30 sheared down to a 20 in just a couple thousand miles?
--- Bror Jace
freakin saturn, I give up
- Thread starter mkosem
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Good Luck, let us know the results!
If it were my car with those miles and a synlube absolutely had to be used I would run Mobil 15/50 summmer,a mix of 10/30 and 15/50 winter and purchase some Schaeffers 132 to go with it only after getting the motors ring package as clean as it's goint to get. I doubt it will burn much but if so,I would burn a less pricey dino oil like a 10/40 Motorcraft and still use the 132 or a mix of HD 15/40 and some PCMO,I actually would not even entertain the idea of continuing use of a synlube in that car. It will run it's life on out just fine on a good dino and good change habits.IMO where I see some go wrong is they have a oil burner that uses a quart per 1k for example then just say Hell with the filter changes and oil changes,they think the oil is being changed anyway,it's not! It is still getting combusion particles in it and needs changing almost like normal.
Hope that helps
I don't think 0w40 would have any more chance to leak than 5w30. The oil is at it's thinnest when the temperatures are hot. When the oil is cold the viscosity is in the 60cSt range compared to hot in the 10-14cSt range. If you have leaking seals I would think the oil would be more likely to seep while the oil is hot before it cools down, and that would say the 0w40 would be LESS likely to leak. Just an educated guess, so take it for what it's worth.
This car hates 10w40 for some reason. I think I'm gonna run 2 more doses of auto-rx. I've noticed the oil consumption has gone down significantly since I've been racking up more mileage recently. The front main seal leak hasn't leaked recently either. After 1,000 miles on this change of 5w30 drive clean I only had to add about 1/4 quart to top it off which is excellent! Doesn't the 132 just thicken up the oil a bit or does it do more? I'm thinkin a 15w50 is not a good idea on the saturn engine. I still have a case and a half of drive clean 5w30 for the RX doses and I'll pick up some more superflow filters tomorrow. I will take care of this probelm or else!
I thought the oil behaves as a 0wt at room temp. Am I wrong in thinking this?
--Matt
ok, just ordered the 3 bottles of RX for the price of 2 deal. I figure I'll run a bottle of it in this oil for 1000 miles with a new filter then drain and do another interval of drive clean with a maintenence dose of RX for 3k. Sound like a plan? Would a filter with better capabilities like the mobil1 be a good idea for use with auto-rx?
--Matt
--Matt
Yes, the 0 rating has to do with really cold temperatures and how well it cranks and pumps (e.g. -35 deg. C) and isn't a weight measure. If it meets certain specs it gets the "xW" winter rating. This is a relative number so you can expect a 0W to perform better than a 5w at cold temps.
Room temperature (72 degrees F) is pretty warm by comparison. The 40 part of 0w40 just means that it has the same viscosity that a 40 weight oil would have at 100 degrees C, but is still thinner than it was at room temperature.
[ January 05, 2003, 09:35 PM: Message edited by: Giles ]
I don't know if this will help you or not, but a friend of mine has a '92 Saturn SC with 1.9L engine and about 90K miles.
He was running Mobil 1 and having a comsumption problem. He switched to 10W-30 Valvoline Maxlife and says the oil consumption is much better. (I'm not sure if his engine calls for 10W-30 or 5W-30).
And I guess it could just be the switch from synthetic to conventional oil that helped (as opposed to the Maxlife specifically).
As far as I know, his oil wasn't leaking out but being consumed (both with M1 and after switching).
-Greg Bohn
maxlife is a lot thicker than M1. my manual recommends 5w30 or 10w30. I'm just gonna stick with the 0w40 Mobil1 when I get the next treatment of RX done and a couple intervals of this drive clean I have layin here.
--Matt
[ January 06, 2003, 02:12 AM: Message edited by: mkosem ]
--Matt
[ January 06, 2003, 02:12 AM: Message edited by: mkosem ]
Patman
Staff member
I wouldn't use a 10 micron filter with Auto-rx, it could plug up fast. Use an OEM or other 25-30 micron type filter instead. Especially since you're gonna throw the filter out after 500mi anyways.
Patman
Staff member
That is a debate that will go on forever. There is some good info in the oil filter section right now that Bob has posted.
after speaking with a gentleman from auto-rx this morning and having been more educated on the auto-rx product and how it works I'm gonna go with this regimen recommended by the gentleman(Frank I believe):
1.10w30 Dino oil and new filter and auto-rx for 750-1000 miles
2.Dump oil, change filter
3.10w30 Dino with no auto-rx for 2250 miles
4.Add auto-rx and finish off the 3000 mile interval.
5.Dump oil, change filter
6.10w30 dino oil and 3oz of RX for subsequent changes
they have a deal on the site now where you get 3 bottles for the price of 2 and if you order 3 or more bottles you get 2 free. Hopefully this should work well.
-Matt
1.10w30 Dino oil and new filter and auto-rx for 750-1000 miles
2.Dump oil, change filter
3.10w30 Dino with no auto-rx for 2250 miles
4.Add auto-rx and finish off the 3000 mile interval.
5.Dump oil, change filter
6.10w30 dino oil and 3oz of RX for subsequent changes
they have a deal on the site now where you get 3 bottles for the price of 2 and if you order 3 or more bottles you get 2 free. Hopefully this should work well.
-Matt
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