Fram Titanium is no longer metal screen backed. Ultra, Endurance, Titanium ALL are synthetic *blend* media.

That's not a good analogy. Rebar is used to reinforce the concrete only in tension; it does not enhance the compression or torsional resistance of concrete.

I get what you're implying, but it's a bad example.
Are you saying an oil filter is not subject to tension forces? "Wire backing" is literally rebar for an oil filter. I stand by my analogy.
 
I seriously doubt they leave out the bypass valve for any filter application that calls for one. From the EG all the way up the food chain, if an application calls for BP valve to be present, then any Fram product will include that feature.

I think perhaps your thoughts are not aligned.
GM engines specd with this filter already have oil bypass valves. So there should not also be one on the oil filter. Of the 11 oil filters I cut open for this application 9 correctly did not have bypass valves and 2 (the Fram Ultra and TG) did have bypass valves present. The new Fram Titanium has what appears to be an identical media core to the Ultra, but the leaf spring does not have a bypass.
 
I've not had any come out wavy but "sucked in" appearance regularly. You just can't beat OEM constructed filters sometimes & I've seen that first hand myself as well.

Yeah, I think that's a rebranded Purolator, FRAM doesn't actually produce it. The OG Ultra media (and Titanium) is a pink product with wire backing. It appears they outsourced this application, likely because Purolator was already making a filter for it.
Maybe, but I've torn apart a Mopar, which I'm pretty sure is a Purolator, and the media was very different and it had no backing. It was pretty easy to tear the media. The fram has consistently produced the lowest insolubles in the UOA's I've done than the Mopar. I may have to pick up a Purolator and look it over and run it.
 
Maybe, but I've torn apart a Mopar, which I'm pretty sure is a Purolator, and the media was very different and it had no backing. It was pretty easy to tear the media. The fram has consistently produced the lowest insolubles in the UOA's I've done than the Mopar. I may have to pick up a Purolator and look it over and run it.
When I say Purolator, I'm thinking specifically the BOSS, which has the mesh-backed white synthetic media.
 
GM engines specd with this filter already have oil bypass valves. So there should not also be one on the oil filter. Of the 11 oil filters I cut open for this application 9 correctly did not have bypass valves and 2 (the Fram Ultra and TG) did have bypass valves present. The new Fram Titanium has what appears to be an identical media core to the Ultra, but the leaf spring does not have a bypass.
It really doesn't matter if the filter has a bypass valve when there's also one in the block, unless the one in the filter has a lower bypass setting. And even if that was the case it probably wouldn't be detrimental unless your engine was a sludge monster.

Do you know what the block bypass valve is set to?
 
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I would pass on running a Boss, it's a 46 micron filter, so the low insolubles you've been enjoying would likely go up. What filter are you running on your C6?
I swore I saw a thread that had it at 99% at 20 microns. If not, then I won´t run it. The worst I´ll run is 99% at 30. That´s only because I bought 12 or 14 of them for $3 to $4 on clearance at Walmart a few months ago.

I´m running the Fram Endurance in my C6 and will either continue with that or run the old style Ultra. It uses the same filter as my daughter´s Renegade, so I´ve got 4 or 5 older Ultras in my stash still. I run that engine pretty hard. Can´t help it. Lol. Too much fun.
 
It really doesn't matter if the filter has a bypass valve when there's also one in the block, unless the one in the filter has a lower bypass setting. And even if that was the case it probably wouldn't be detrimental unless your engine was a sludge monster.

Do you know what the block bypass valve is set to?
The great thing about an oil filter bypass is that it incorporates the media type (efficiency) being used on a specific filter rather than relying on the oem bypass. But with manufactures knowing the application they're built for (designing them around oem bypass) along with cost cutting and filters that state how long they can go, 5k, 10k, it pretty much isn't going to be made on all filters.

Really the only time you'd need one would be if there was no OEM bypass or you had some really crazy high restricting filter.
 
I swore I saw a thread that had it at 99% at 20 microns. If not, then I won´t run it. The worst I´ll run is 99% at 30. That´s only because I bought 12 or 14 of them for $3 to $4 on clearance at Walmart a few months ago.

I´m running the Fram Endurance in my C6 and will either continue with that or run the old style Ultra. It uses the same filter as my daughter´s Renegade, so I´ve got 4 or 5 older Ultras in my stash still. I run that engine pretty hard. Can´t help it. Lol. Too much fun.
Purolator has been playing games on their efficiency claims over the years. They have proven to be rock catchers only.
 
Purolator has been playing games on their efficiency claims over the years. They have proven to be rock catchers only.
They´ve never been a fav for me. My first experience with them was with a 2006 Pontiac Solstice. The media tended to frizz after only 3k and that bothered me. I moved to an ECore Walmart Supertech and they always came out looking good. Then we had the tearolator years. I was hoping the Boss would finally be a good one.
 
They´ve never been a fav for me. My first experience with them was with a 2006 Pontiac Solstice. The media tended to frizz after only 3k and that bothered me. I moved to an ECore Walmart Supertech and they always came out looking good. Then we had the tearolator years. I was hoping the Boss would finally be a good one.
They did fix those issues around the time Boss came out 2015-16? The Boss is one of the greatest constructed filters out there except for the lousy efficiency. One point I'd like to make is that I'd take an un-torn Boss over a 99%@20u torn fram ultra anyday of the week. At least you'd have the oil filtered :LOL:. I've seen 1 non wire backed Ultra torn already here on BITOG. Hopefully, we don't see a lot of them torn.
 
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It really doesn't matter if the filter has a bypass valve when there's also one in the block, unless the one in the filter has a lower bypass setting. And even if that was the case it probably wouldn't be detrimental unless your engine was a sludge monster.

Do you know what the block bypass valve is set to?
I meant to quote @Robvette not you @ZeeOSix. I need to get my other eye working. 🫣
 
@Robvette I don't think the title of your thread and video is accurate because of a recent email from the Fram tech line.

Might want to consider editing it.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...is-it-still-a-good-choice.364418/post-6551852

1691612895008.webp
 
@Robvette I don't think the title of your thread and video is accurate because of a recent email from the Fram tech line.

Might want to consider editing it.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...is-it-still-a-good-choice.364418/post-6551852

View attachment 171748
I’ll be checking their work on that in the future, I have a couple Speed Perks to use. And if it’s wrong, it wouldn’t be the first lie I’ve caught them in! Black silicone ADBVs being one of them.
 
The great thing about an oil filter bypass is that it incorporates the media type (efficiency) being used on a specific filter rather than relying on the oem bypass. But with manufactures knowing the application they're built for (designing them around oem bypass) along with cost cutting and filters that state how long they can go, 5k, 10k, it pretty much isn't going to be made on all filters.

Really the only time you'd need one would be if there was no OEM bypass or you had some really crazy high restricting filter.
Saw your other post about you meant to quote Robvette on this, but will make a few comments. Yes, the built-in bypass valve in the block may react differently depending on what oil filter is used - ie, meaning if the oil filter has more dP vs flow, then the in-block bypass will open sooner. Were as, if the bypass valve is part of the oil filter, then the designer has taken the dP vs flow of the filter into account in the bypass valve setting - if he's a good oil filter designer.

For the LS7 in the C5 Z06, it was verified by someone who had his LS7 engine torn down that the in-block bypass valve started to open at 11 PSI, and was fully opened at 22 PSI. Eleven PSI setting on a filter bypass valve isn't very high, so if the filter is relatively flow restrictive (meaning a high dP vs flow curve), and/or the filter starts loading up, then it seems the in-block bypass valve would open pretty easily. Also true if the engine RPM wasn't kept down until the oil fully warmed up. Not many spin-on oil filters with the bypass in the filter have the bypass set to 10-11 PSI.
 
Saw your other post about you meant to quote Robvette on this, but will make a few comments. Yes, the built-in bypass valve in the block may react differently depending on what oil filter is used - ie, meaning if the oil filter has more dP vs flow, then the in-block bypass will open sooner. Were as, if the bypass valve is part of the oil filter, then the designer has taken the dP vs flow of the filter into account in the bypass valve setting - if he's a good oil filter designer.

For the LS7 in the C5 Z06, it was verified by someone who had his LS7 engine torn down that the in-block bypass valve started to open at 11 PSI, and was fully opened at 22 PSI. Eleven PSI setting on a filter bypass valve isn't very high, so if the filter is relatively flow restrictive (meaning a high dP vs flow curve), and/or the filter starts loading up, then it seems the in-block bypass valve would open pretty easily. Also true if the engine RPM wasn't kept down until the oil fully warmed up. Not many spin-on oil filters with the bypass in the filter have the bypass set to 10-11 PSI.
Agreed (y)
 
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