FRAM No bueno

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Frams are not going to kill your engine 30 minutes after putting one on.

Fram oil filters are lowest build cost but sell @ a premium price.

No reason to buy a $5 filter when a $2 or $3 one is built better, better materials and more media inside it.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Frams are not going to kill your engine 30 minutes after putting one on. ...
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Oh brother...
 
In 7 years of hanging out here, I have never seen any filter with poorer looking insides. Nor have I seen any convincing evidence engines suffer from using them. My conclusion? Oil filters aren't very important and you may as well buy some cheap house brands such as the ST at Wal-Mart. Purolators may have followed Fram down the cheap looking road.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Oh shoot... My bad... I missed the "NOT" part of your post, I thought you were saying they would.

Sorry bud!
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LOL ok. I was hoping you read it wrong.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Fram OF's work. But there are better options.

I have zero issues with Fram AF's.
+1
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Dad has been using them for over 300K KM (180K Miles) on his current van and the engine is fine.

I would rather a Wix or Napa-Gold. Better built and about the same price in the US from what I understand.
 
The orange cans of dooooooom. I used to use them religiously and never had any issues. I only stopped because I chose to go oem instead.
 
Originally Posted By: SAMSATX
I've been reading around the forums and I've heard comments that FRAM oil filters aren't so good. Is it true? Why is that?


Get a pipe cutter, or better yet, invest in a dedicated filter cutter. Open one up. Then open a Mobil-1, Purolator, an STP, or even a "lowly" Valuecraft (AZ house brand, but made by Champion Labs, like M1, KN, etc.). And then you'll know for yourself.
 
Hey, I'll even give you a lead. Here's a photo of a couple dissections I did a few years back.

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I would also note that I can easily crush the Fram element flat with my hand. I'd never be able to manually collapse the sturdy Champ Labs elements you see in the left and middle positions.
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EDIT: I forgot this gem -- notice the absence of the Fram can. It's so thin and flimsy compared to the CL filters that when I cut it open, it collapsed and became a gnarled twisted mess of torn, razor sharp metal, so I tossed it (before I decided to take the photo).
 
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
I like my long-term EAO's. Cheaper in the long run, less waste and less mess having to change it at each oil change.
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Stevie, how long do you go on one Amsoil filter? I would love to not have to change the filter every time, is that endorsed by Amsoil?
 
Amsoil will only stand behind their filter if used in conjunction with their oil. (If you intend on running it for the full 25K Miles, which Makes Sense), but I have run it with Pennzoil Platinum etc for 20K KM on separate fills of oil.

The longest I have gone is 20K KM (12K Miles) but I'm sure it will go much farther. For me the cost is recovered at this point so there is no real need to push it further. Keep in mind filters up here are more expensive, so you might have to run it a tad longer to recover your costs. (Not a problem though)

It's a 15 micron filter, and by pushing it farther I have been told by Terry may make it even more efficient at pulling even smaller particles out of the oil because it starts to plug up a bit. (Not enough to restrict flow, just to make it filter better) It has better flow than your average filter anyways so the one cancels the other out IMO.

I can try running it out to 30K KM (18K Miles) if you want, as I think it will be more than fine.
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Oil filters catch a lot when an engine is new, but once it's broken in they catch a lot less and IMO can be left on for much longer. Look at fuel filters... Mine is a lifetime and never needs replacement according to Hyundai unless there is a problem. I'm at 170K KM (Just over 100K Miles) and the engines runs great!

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Steve
 
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I like OEM filter, Denso, Toyo Roki, Filtech, Nippon, Hamp, Fram, Wix

but really fram is the OEM filter maker in most cases
 
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