Ford FWD 3.5L/3.7L Water Pump

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Dec 19, 2013
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Fort Worth, Texas
I've done quite a few of these & have done it by Removing the powertrain & by following Ford's service procedures which had you almost take the engine out & fight with everything.

In my opinion, It's easier to just drop the Powertrain.....Especially on the Edge & Lincoln MKZ. The Mazda CX-9 calls for engine removal in Mazda service information & it's the same platform from what I can tell.
The Ford Flex has more room & haven't tried removing the Powertrain for a water pump yet.....But I'll likely try it next time just to see if it's worth it.

I also believe the customer gets a better level of workmanship this way, Especially with prepping & sealing the Timing Cover.


This one was caught early & was only leaking out the weep passage as designed, No oil contamination, 2008 Ford Edge with 165,xxx miles.....Owner takes pretty good care of it as ya'll can tell.

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I agree, But it is what it is. Most....If not all of the independent repair facilities in my area won't touch one of these with a 10" pole. This one is actually a referral from another shop citing they don't have the tools. Lisle has Cam Holding tools for @ $30.

And NO you don't need to bring the colored links back to there original location by turning the crank 150 times.....Simply bring both cam gears up where Left & Right marks are up top & the Crank Gear mark is down.....Install the Cam holders. Upon reassembly....Then you can reposition the Chain to where the Orange links are on the Cam Gear marks & the Yellow link is on the Crank Gear mark.
I've seen countless mechanics fight with this.
 
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If I'm the customer and I plan on keeping the car I'd go ahead and have you replace the timing chain, guides, and tensioner while you are in there. At 165,000 miles it will need it sooner than later, unless already done.

Besides this probably the motor mounts too!
 
This is just one engine, in the sideways configuration, that doesn’t make it on the list of engines that are good to take beyond 200,000 miles. Thank you for the post.
 
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This is right up there with Audi putting the timing belt on the back of RS engines. Build a body that the engine can't fit in unless you change the engine. Insanity. Glad my elderly mother ditched her CX-9. Nice car, but not so nice with an oil pan full of coolant.
 
Subaru does the same thing with the EZ30/EZ36 engines. The water pump is driven by the timing chain and behind the timing cover. Don't hear of nearly as many failures but at least the Ford timing cover doesn't have over 40 8mm fasteners to undo.
 
This is right up there with Audi putting the timing belt on the back of RS engines. Build a body that the engine can't fit in unless you change the engine. Insanity.
you’re thinking of the rear chains. classic trick to fit 10 pounds of poop in a 5 pound bag

i pulled the engine out of an s4, incredibly easy. it had 160,000 miles and therefore lasted beyond the intended lifespan of the vehicle without a timing belt service the normal 4.2 v8 would require. that’s a success in my book
 
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modern tech at its worse!!! few know whats in store with long ownership, prolly good to trade when warranty is out, fine if you got the $$$$$$, the story of everything these days!! i will stick to older + simpler + retired + driving less = a long life for my rides, hopefully!!
 
I agree, But it is what it is. Most....If not all of the independent repair facilities in my area won't touch one of these with a 10" pole. This one is actually a referral from another shop citing they don't have the tools. Lisle has Cam Holding tools for @ $30.

And NO you don't need to bring the colored links back to there original location by turning the crank 150 times.....Simply bring both cam gears up where Left & Right marks are up top & the Crank Gear mark is down.....Install the Cam holders. Upon reassembly....Then you can reposition the Chain to where the Orange links are on the Cam Gear marks & the Yellow link is on the Crank Gear mark.
I've seen countless mechanics fight with this.
How hard is it to drop the engine? That looks a lot better than trying to do the work in-car.

Are you replacing the timing chain(s) and tensioners/guides at the same time?

These have a bad reputation for the transfer case (I might have the wrong name here - PTU?) going bad in the AWD versions - no provision to change the oil, and close to the exhaust = short oil life. Are you doing repairs/replacement at the same time?
 
might as well do a timing chain and guides at that point.....

what a hassle.
 
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