ford explorer engine rattle and auto-rx

[Sayjac]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Like chevofreak suggests, ride it out for the full mileage. The onset of noises is not uncommon as some passages/components clean up quicker than others. Some may be restricting oil getting places ..while down stream ..some films/restrictions are balancing it out and maintaining pressure.

Not an uncommon side effect.

+1. Since this rattle seemed to coincide with RX, give it some time and finish the process. Then, you can begin to experiment with different viscosity oils. For the 2700 buck alternative, you've got nothing to lose. It could just clear up in time, just as others mentioned in this thread, have. Wouldn't say the dealer analysis is the definitive solution until you give it some time.

I agree though, I wouldn't go for the $2700 either. Good Luck.

 

[panthermike]

2700, that sucks!

Sorry man, hopefully she'll last you as long as you need it to.

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: panthermike
2700, that sucks!

Sorry man, hopefully she'll last you as long as you need it to.

yep, me too. BTW, invoice state that I should not drive the vehiclee as there were "timing chain cassette pieces laying next to the timing chain." May be true, However I did not see the pieces. Even so I have driven it this way for months as I thught it was an exhaust rattle. Think I will put in heavier oil. I currently have 10w40 coventional. How about heavier 10w40?

 

[1WildPig]

They are spec'd for 5w30 so I'd not go thicker than the 10w40. I ARX'd my 99 Exploder that has a 4.0 SOHC...it's in it's second rinse phase right now at 178K miles. It has had a very brief startup rattle when cold since I got it 10K miles ago but the start up rattle has lessened since the ARX treatments. I used 5w30 SuperTech for the washes and rinses with the first rinse phase using half and half of 5w30 and 5w20. You want an oil that will circulate fast to get pressure to the timing chains fast...in the warmer temps, the 10w40 probably ain't that bad but cooler temps call for the thinner stuff. Since you're in your rinse phase, just let it go for now or, now keep this a secret, add a little MMO to the rinse cycle to thin that oil out little and possibly help the rinse along. Like was said, you could also try a motorcraft oil filter too but I wouldn't want to go any thicker with the oil....

 

[VW_TDI_PD]

Russell, that really sucks... some people complain about timing belts and how they should be replaced but [censored], you need new chains and what not, and it costs what a used engine would!!! Im sure you could find a decent running drop in for under 2k!

As for me.... When I started the rinse phase on my corolla, it has started a cold start knock. Not really a good noise.. goes away after about a minute. Using an advance auto filter, made by purolator. I hope it goes away eventually like many of you experience!

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: 1WildPig
They are spec'd for 5w30 so I'd not go thicker than the 10w40. I ARX'd my 99 Exploder that has a 4.0 SOHC...it's in it's second rinse phase right now at 178K miles. It has had a very brief startup rattle when cold since I got it 10K miles ago but the start up rattle has lessened since the ARX treatments. I used 5w30 SuperTech for the washes and rinses with the first rinse phase using half and half of 5w30 and 5w20. You want an oil that will circulate fast to get pressure to the timing chains fast...in the warmer temps, the 10w40 probably ain't that bad but cooler temps call for the thinner stuff. Since you're in your rinse phase, just let it go for now or, now keep this a secret, add a little MMO to the rinse cycle to thin that oil out little and possibly help the rinse along. Like was said, you could also try a motorcraft oil filter too but I wouldn't want to go any thicker with the oil....


Thanks for the advice. Looks like heavier oil is not the way to go.

 

[Russell]

got an estimate from another ford dealer to replace the front timing chains, guides and tensioners for $1100. Might consider if i can be sure the rear chain is ok.

Even so, another estimate for just the rear chains, guides and tensioner was $2,400 and 20 hours of labor.

I have yet to find an independent shop willing to tackle the job. This just gets better and better.
_________________________

 

[1WildPig]

Man, I think I'd look for another motor if I couldn't find a private "Ford" mechanic that would do you right...don't think I'd spend that kind of money and take a chance on the rear ones not needing to be replaced soon...a good private mechanic that works on Fords could probably steer you in the right direction ... ask around at a local parts store (not a chain parts store) for a good Ford mechanic and get their opinion ...

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: 1WildPig
Man, I think I'd look for another motor if I couldn't find a private "Ford" mechanic that would do you right...don't think I'd spend that kind of money and take a chance on the rear ones not needing to be replaced soon...a good private mechanic that works on Fords could probably steer you in the right direction ... ask around at a local parts store (not a chain parts store) for a good Ford mechanic and get their opinion ...

excellent point. However "Local" parts storesa re getting hard to find.

 

[1WildPig]

I hear ya, what model is your Exploder?? I guess I could sell you my '99 Limited for a good price and you could keep yours as a spare! ... My "Ford" mechanic said somebody had already replaced the chains and tensioners, it's running good so far ... fingers crossed!

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: 1WildPig
I hear ya, what model is your Exploder?? I guess I could sell you my '99 Limited for a good price and you could keep yours as a spare! ... My "Ford" mechanic said somebody had already replaced the chains and tensioners, it's running good so far ... fingers crossed!

Eddie Bauer. Yep the front tensioner was replaced under warrenty at about 80,000. However, guides etc. were not.

 

[Rick20]

So much for warrantee work. This sound like the equivalent of changing out a clutch and pressure plate, without replacing the throwout bearing.