Ford 4.6 DOHC - M1 5w30 or M1 HM 5w30 ?

[milkboy]

2003 Ford 4.6 32v DOHC w/ supercharger, +/- 400 RWHP
50k mi., driven 3-seasons, less than 3k mi /yr, no short trips but it gets a workout when driven.

Engine is spec'd for 5w20 but I use 5w30 because it runs much better on it. PP or M1 depending on the deal.
Shell 93 most of the time.
Oil and filter to be changed annually. I had been doing two year OCIs because of the low miles per year, but I'm switching to an annual OCI based on some opinions from BITOG.

I'm going to buy M1 on the current promotion.

Stay with plain vanilla M1 5w30, or would there be an advantage to the add-pack in the HM 5w30 under these conditions ? Or something else ?
(Particularly the anti-wear and detergent content.)
Obviously, the OCI isn't a factor - also, the odometer isn't high, but the motor is 13 years old.

All opinions appreciated

 

[RazorsEdge]

What is the vehicle your talking about? Information helps on a board like this

Personally,I'm not a Mobil 1 oil fan,but it'll work (pick what you want HM or regular) fine in this application.

 

[FastLane]

I just switch to Mobil 1 5W30 HM in my 02 Mustang GT. Seems to run great off of it. I ran M1 5W30 previously.

 

[Nick1994]

Plain old vanilla sounds good to me, unless you have some seeping oil leaks, then maybe try the HM.

 

[crazyoildude]

Use plain old mobil 1 5w20 or if you want 5w30
50,000 miles on that engine is low low miles.What oil Filter do you use?? Thats important.

 

[Carbon12]

Plain M1 5w-30.

 

[69GTX]

That same engine was specced for 5w-30 from 1993-2000. So using 5w-30 is probably preferable, especially for a performance car driven in nicer/warmer weather. I doubt you're worried about CAFE MPG, I'm running 5w-30 PP in my 2002 Linc DOHC 4.6L. My 1997 Linc DOHC 4.6L went 230K miles on 5w-30....the grade it was specced for. I would do annual oil changes despite the low miles. It only costs $20 for synthetic oil + UG filter.

Mustang, Marauder, or Lincoln? You might even consider the stronger HTHS of 3.58 that comes with the M1 ESP or 3.3 in the HM 5w-30. Don't see why you'd need the HM though with that low a mileage. The 4.6L DOHC's can probably run a 0/5w-40 oil just fine too. The new M1 0w-40 FS has a weaker viscosity than the old version and is probably not much different than the HTHS of the M1 5w-30 ESP. You can run the 0w-40 during the hotter summer months and have it shear down to a regular 30 weight over the winter. Then change it in April-May. That's what I do with my 5.7L specced for 5w-30.

Wouldn't use MC FL820S on a high performance engine I cared about. The Fram XG2 is only $3-$5 more depending on where you buy it. It will easily last a year or two and the protection is far better than the M/C.

 

[milkboy]

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
Use plain old mobil 1 5w20 or if you want 5w30
50,000 miles on that engine is low low miles.What oil Filter do you use?? Thats important.


Napa Gold or MC FL820S

 

[milkboy]

It runs fine on 5w20, but runs noticeably better on 5w30. Runs cooler, and quiets down the valvetrain.

 

[crazyoildude]

there were some changes with those 4.6 engines although i know a lot of people use 5w30 with no ill effects.

 

[69GTX]

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
there were some changes with those 4.6 engines although i know a lot of people use 5w30 with no ill effects.


I'm not aware of anything of importance inside the rotating elements that changed. Yes, they added 5-10 hp from 1997 to 2002 on my 4.6L...which had to come from somewhere such as a slightly higher compression ratio or slightly improved air intake flow. But I doubt if bearing clearances, and other critical specs were altered. A couple people on this board have run 0w-40 for 10-15 years on their 4.6L vehicles with no issues.

 

[milkboy]

Originally Posted By: 69GTX
That same engine was specced for 5w-30 from 1993-2000. So using 5w-30 is probably preferable, especially for a performance car driven in nicer/warmer weather. I doubt you're worried about CAFE MPG, I'm running 5w-30 PP in my 2002 Linc DOHC 4.6L. My 1997 Linc DOHC 4.6L went 230K miles on 5w-30....the grade it was specced for. I would do annual oil changes despite the low miles. It only costs $20 for synthetic oil + UG filter.

Mustang, Marauder, or Lincoln? You might even consider the stronger HTHS of 3.58 that comes with the M1 ESP or 3.3 in the HM 5w-30. Don't see why you'd need the HM though with that low a mileage. The 4.6L DOHC's can probably run a 0/5w-40 oil just fine too. The new M1 0w-40 FS has a weaker viscosity than the old version and is probably not much different than the HTHS of the M1 5w-30 ESP. You can run the 0w-40 during the hotter summer months and have it shear down to a regular 30 weight over the winter. Then change it in April-May. That's what I do with my 5.7L specced for 5w-30.

Wouldn't use MC FL820S on a high performance engine I cared about. The Fram XG2 is only $3-$5 more depending on where you buy it. It will easily last a year or two and the protection is far better than the M/C.


I'm considering switching to PureOne, I have read it flows better than the MC FL820S

 

[69GTX]

Originally Posted By: milkboy
I'm considering switching to PureOne, I have read it flows better than the MC FL820S


It probably flows better and claims a higher efficiency removal, but it's still a PURO that has had numerous issues over the past 2-3 years. Puro makes the M/C FL820S too. I wouldn't use either on my 400 hp baby. Fram XG2 or equivalent for me. You can buy those on line in a 6 pack for $36-$39. Fram XG ($8 at W/M) is a heavy duty filter. The PureOne and M/C's are lightweights in comparison. I was a fan of both of those for years. Not any longer. It's too easy to go with the XG2 now. Napa Gold is ok too.

 

[RazorsEdge]

Originally Posted By: milkboy

I'm considering switching to PureOne, I have read it flows better than the MC FL820S



Whatever you decide,dont over think this. We've got a 96'Crown Victoria 4.6 liter motor that been running cheap Trop Artic 5w30 w/ Motorcraft filters since we purchased the car.

It now has 300,000 plus miles on the car.

 

[milkboy]

Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: milkboy
I'm considering switching to PureOne, I have read it flows better than the MC FL820S


It probably flows better and claims a higher efficiency removal, but it's still a PURO that has had numerous issues over the past 2-3 years. Puro makes the M/C FL820S too. I wouldn't use either on my 400 hp baby. Fram XG2 or equivalent for me. You can buy those on line in a 6 pack for $36-$39. Fram XG ($8 at W/M) is a heavy duty filter. The PureOne and M/C's are lightweights in comparison. I was a fan of both of those for years. Not any longer. It's too easy to go with the XG2 now. Napa Gold is ok too.


Thanks - I'm open to new ideas. Cost isn't the issue at < $10 /year, I want the best available for the application.

 

[69GTX]

Originally Posted By: RazorsEdge
Originally Posted By: milkboy

I'm considering switching to PureOne, I have read it flows better than the MC FL820S



Whatever you decide,dont over think this. We've got a 96'Crown Victoria 4.6 liter motor that been running cheap Trop Artic 5w30 w/ Motorcraft filters since we purchased the car.

It now has 300,000 plus miles on the car.


My 1997 4.6L DOHC got that same kind of attention for 230K miles. Oil changes at the Quick Lubes and who knows what [censored] filters they tossed in. But my car got 3K OCI's despite doing 500 highway miles per week. I know a little more today than I did 10-15 years ago so I want to put that knowledge to use. If my vehicle was souped up to 400 hp I'd be extra careful, especially with the spirited driving the OP suggests. And with buying oil and filters on sale throughout the year, you can easily buy the best synthetic oils and the best filters for the same money that your neighbor pays for cheaper conventional oil and $1-$2 jobber filters. If it costs no additional money, I'll buy the M1 at $2.17/qt on sale.

 

[milkboy]

Originally Posted By: RazorsEdge
Originally Posted By: milkboy

I'm considering switching to PureOne, I have read it flows better than the MC FL820S



Whatever you decide,dont over think this. We've got a 96'Crown Victoria 4.6 liter motor that been running cheap Trop Artic 5w30 w/ Motorcraft filters since we purchased the car.

It now has 300,000 plus miles on the car.


I agree they are survivors - I had 2 Crown Vics and a Grand Marq - but the 32v DOHC set-up with a blower strapped on top is a different enough application to require some thought

 

[CT8]

Oil filter choice? 3,000 miles per year it will not matter. Make sure the air filter is sealed and filters well. In 20 years you will be looking at 60,000 miles I would run M1 10w30

 

[milkboy]

Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: RazorsEdge
Originally Posted By: milkboy

I'm considering switching to PureOne, I have read it flows better than the MC FL820S



Whatever you decide,dont over think this. We've got a 96'Crown Victoria 4.6 liter motor that been running cheap Trop Artic 5w30 w/ Motorcraft filters since we purchased the car.

It now has 300,000 plus miles on the car.


My 1997 4.6L DOHC got that same kind of attention for 230K miles. Oil changes at the Quick Lubes and who knows what [censored] filters they tossed in. But my car got 3K OCI's despite doing 500 highway miles per week. I know a little more today than I did 10-15 years ago so I want to put that knowledge to use. If my vehicle was souped up to 400 hp I'd be extra careful, especially with the spirited driving the OP suggests. And with buying oil and filters on sale throughout the year, you can easily buy the best synthetic oils and the best filters for the same money that your neighbor pays for cheaper conventional oil and $1-$2 jobber filters. If it costs no additional money, I'll buy the M1 at $2.17/qt on sale.


This. Doing it myself and waiting for deals, I can use the best materials in the market for less than half the price of the [censored] at Iffy Lube, and know it's done right to boot. Plus I enjoy tinkering with it

 

[tig1]

I put 218K on my 96 Merc GM 4.6 using M1 10-30. When sold the engine performed as well as when new. The engine showed no signs of wear, remained very clean, and oil use never increased with miles.