Ford 2V spit a plug

D

D60

Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
4,102
Location
Colo
'07 4.6 in F150. About 235k miles

Yesterday it spit the #3 plug.
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Can anyone identify this broken metal piece? It's .2485" with calipers, not mic. Edit: it's magnetic, thus ferrous
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I still get 140# compression on this hole so valve stem seems unlikely?

The spark plug is in intact. The strap is closed up but other than that I can't make out an impact mark to the outside of the strap (if it appears so, it's just glare from camera/lighting)
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Huh, I thought they revised the heads and solved this problem in the later years of the 2-valve? Guess not, wow.
 
Does the metal piece fit inside the spring? I was going to guess it's some sort of contact, but I don't see it in catalog photos of the new plug boot.

I don't know these engines. Somebody who does will probably be able to identify it.
 
dogememe said:
Huh, I thought they revised the heads and solved this problem in the later years of the 2-valve? Guess not, wow.
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They did add more threads, but the underlying problem is the factory spec of 13.5 ft/lb. They'll back off and spit if not checked a lot.

The difference is, you can put the spark plug back in a full thread head and keep going. On the earlier ones, you have to helicoil or timesert.
 
Rhymingmechanic said:
Does the metal piece fit inside the spring? I was going to guess it's some sort of contact, but I don't see it in catalog photos of the new plug boot.

I don't know these engines. Somebody who does will probably be able to identify it.
Click to expand...
I thought that, too, but yeah I just happened to have a new coil here and there's nothing of the sort in the boot/spring
 
I didn't know the 2 valve was still in production in 2007. I thought 2004 was the last year for the V8 2v, but seeing your post I am obviously wrong.

How were you able to test compression with stripped threads on the head?
 
Ok, well I didn't have an M14x1.25 thread chaser but I kinda did because I have the timesert kit. I used the install tool to run down the threads. A 12pt 12mm drives the square end (you kinda need to use a wobble if you leave the fuel rail in place, otherwise you could use the timesert "tap wrench.")

For no logical reason I was afraid of 25ft lbs and set my wrench at 290 inch lbs or roughly 24ft lbs. Why push my luck???

It achieved 24 ft lbs and I gave a sigh of relief. Installed the new Motorcraft coil I just happened to have in the shop, plugged in the injector and coil and she seems to idle great.

I appreciate input from all.

@GON my understanding is you can't even get the 3V 4.6 '04-08. Maybe even an option in '09 and a couple years after that. Odd because the Exploder SportTrak got it in '07 (my BIL had one).

I consider it a blessing though- this 4.6 is gutless but reliable. And the 4R70 seems to live even longer with less power shoved through it. And my XL gets a real t-case lever!!!!
 
D60 said:
Ok, well I didn't have an M14x1.25 thread chaser but I kinda did because I have the timesert kit. I used the install tool to run down the threads. A 12pt 12mm drives the square end (you kinda need to use a wobble if you leave the fuel rail in place, otherwise you could use the timesert "tap wrench.")

For no logical reason I was afraid of 25ft lbs and set my wrench at 290 inch lbs or roughly 24ft lbs. Why push my luck???

It achieved 24 ft lbs and I gave a sigh of relief. Installed the new Motorcraft coil I just happened to have in the shop, plugged in the injector and coil and she seems to idle great.

I appreciate input from all.

@GON my understanding is you can't even get the 3V 4.6 '04-08. Maybe even an option in '09 and a couple years after that. Odd because the Exploder SportTrak got it in '07 (my BIL had one).

I consider it a blessing though- this 4.6 is gutless but reliable. And the 4R70 seems to live even longer with less power shoved through it. And my XL gets a real t-case lever!!!!
Click to expand...


I've seen videos where people will get 80 ft/lbs out of the threads before they strip. One thing you have to be careful with is make sure the valves are closed if running a tap in. I believe that may have happened to the first engine in my car. You can hit a valve.

The 4R70w / 75E seem to be good transmissions if you keep them cool and don't tow in overdrive. Ford put the transmission in the E350 vans and wagons behind the 4.6 and 5.4. Panthers had lighter clutch packs and the ridiculous gearing lead to the torque converter doig a lot of work.
 
SwampSurvivor said:
I've seen videos where people will get 80 ft/lbs out of the threads before they strip. One thing you have to be careful with is make sure the valves are closed if running a tap in. I believe that may have happened to the first engine in my car. You can hit a valve.

The 4R70w / 75E seem to be good transmissions if you keep them cool and don't tow in overdrive. Ford put the transmission in the E350 vans and wagons behind the 4.6 and 5.4. Panthers had lighter clutch packs and the ridiculous gearing lead to the torque converter doig a lot of work.
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Agreed even the E350 got it 'til end of life IIRC

ANYWAY I will say #3 which blew threaded in poorly. Now that I've done some others I have a frame of reference.

#3 honestly only seemed to engage a couple threads, but I do believe it bottomed so that means most of the "upper" threads are trashed. It seemed to bottom almost immediately AND I could only get it started with the ol' fuel line trick. For whatever reason my GW flex magnetic spark plug socket would NOT start it no matter what. Even spinning with fingertips.

It also took numerous pulls with the TW to achieve the 24 ft lbs. All the others have basically bottomed and clicked nearly immediately.

That said, it's in and at 24 ft lbs so I'm inclined to drive it awhile and see what happens. I could rip it out and do a TimeSert but honestly I'm busy and inclined to let sleeping dogs lie.
 
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