For those that constantly worry about cold flow.

[KrisZ]

Stop worrying and being afraid of the dry starts especially those in the south.
I found few videos of engines being cranked or running without the valve cover off and it can be clearly seen that the oil flows almost immediately in most situations. And in all situations the cams can be seen wet with oil and not dry as many fear on this forum.

 

[michaelluscher]

I'd like to think as long as you aren't using conventional 10w-40 and a OCOD, cold flow and drain back issue's shouldn't be a problem

 

[splinter]

Keep your covers cinched down tightly.

 

[camrydriver111]

How would the oil flow at low temperatures?

 

[AHC]

Yes, but how do we know the VW engine wasn't rigged?

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
How would the oil flow at low temperatures?


Like I keep posting, choose a "W" rating that's appropriate for your ambient...don't get to freezing, then anything with a "W" in it will all behave like the videos shown.

 

[OneEyeJack]

For the same price I'm keeping my 0w oil.

 

[BRZED]

Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
How would the oil flow at low temperatures?


With disrespect and even with impunity.

 

[Dyusik]

After letting my bike sit for a few months, I did a valve clearance check. Aside from the cleanest engine I have ever seen, there was oil everywhere...cam lobes were nice and slick and ready for this so called dry start. Marketing hype and true research sometimes can be distinguished by just looking for yourself. Nand why do people even try to mention positive displacement pumps when they are forgotten about as soon as the conversation leads to a 0w or temps below 0 (not very cold for oil btw) my dad ran his car with straight 20 and sae 40, with no ill effect ( like many "report")
need proof? Look. This is not a religoin ( blasphemy here I know), but a verifiable hobby we got here...

 

[Turk]

"especially those in the South" - Well, yea, it don't get -30 -40 in the South!

What actual & throughout the engine temp were those engines cranked at?

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: Turk
"especially those in the South" - Well, yea, it don't get -30 -40 in the South!


But there's a school of though on BITOg that "0W is better, even at 100F"...clearly not the case.

 

[Justin251]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Turk
"especially those in the South" - Well, yea, it don't get -30 -40 in the South!


But there's a school of though on BITOg that "0W is better, even at 100F"...clearly not the case.


I run a 0wXX because it's available here and usually on sale. lol

 

[Turk]

I run Mobil 1 0w-30 AFE in a couple other vehicles because I
got 70 Quarts of it for $1 a Quart!

 

[barkingspider]

I ran 0w, 5w and 10w-30 in the same vehicle here in southern CA. I did not notice any difference

 

[Smokescreen]

These vids are interesting, but fairly useless. Unless the vids are at -30F or colder...it doesn't approach the limit for cold flow, even for conventional.

In any case, I run synthetic in all my vehicles in the winter, so I never worry about cold flow.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Turk
"especially those in the South" - Well, yea, it don't get -30 -40 in the South!


But there's a school of though on BITOg that "0W is better, even at 100F"...clearly not the case.
To whom? There are those pesky oil temp charts for those needing to know which W oil for the starting temps.

 

[paulri]

I'm going to extrapolate here (which will probably get me in trouble). I assume that this means that modern engines don't suffer from a lack of oil protection in the first few minutes after starting up. From those videos, it would appear to be a couple of seconds at most.

Provided that this is in fact the case---how far back in time would this be good for? Is it that engines in the 1970s took a while to get oil flowing to the parts, but not in the 1990s or 2000s? Is there a general time frame when this change took place? Or has very quick lubrication always been the case?

 

[maximus]

Oil pressure is pretty much instant from the moment you turn the key.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Turk
"especially those in the South" - Well, yea, it don't get -30 -40 in the South!


But there's a school of though on BITOg that "0W is better, even at 100F"...clearly not the case.
To whom? There are those pesky oil temp charts for those needing to know which W oil for the starting temps.


I believe that post is aimed squarely at CATERHAM, and anyone who even slightly/partially agrees with his "school of thought", BUT let's NOT 'war' over this, as it is not worth it to do so.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: dailydriver
I believe that post is aimed squarely at CATERHAM, and anyone who even slightly/partially agrees with his "school of thought", BUT let's NOT 'war' over this, as it is not worth it to do so.

Wasn't "aimed" at anyone...there are a number of posters who claim that 0W is better even at 100F in Dallas Texas not just his uber sensitive fanbois.

Take M1 AFE 0W30 versus 5W30, clearly that, as a generalisation is a falsity. Raise that, in a thread, get called a "hater", or told that I'm always going after CATERHAM, or that I'm envious of his pretty cars...LOL Haters...no answers as to how two oils of identical characteristics above freezing can display a "massive advantage", just "hater"

I'll bring some more "technical obfuscation" (not my phrase, search where it comes from) to the thread, WRT the topic of oil flow to rocker arms,and pertinent to the older engine comment.

Engine in question, started on a variety of oils at a variety of temperatures...with a positive displacement pump, and finite gallery volume, the engine can't fill any quicker with a properly pumpable oil, whether it's 0W, 5W, or indeed no W...in this case, it's about 6 seonds to full oil pressure, and 3-5 for rocker arm oiling.

SAE30 (no W) does it at 30F (freezing), didn't get it done at 20F
10W didn't get it done at 9F, about the same as the SE30 at 20F
5W gets it done at 12F, and at -11F is about the same as the 10W at 9F, and the SAE30 at 20F.

Put any of those oils at 35F, and they will pump exactly the same volume, fill at exactly the same rates, and provide exactly the same "protection".

the W rating is the cold temperature cranking and pumpability, it does NOT bestow any magical protection at temperatures above that which it promises...the limits of pumpability.