For a small, high revving engine, what quality to look for in oil?

tai

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54
Location
Austin, TX
For a small, high revving engine (7000 RPM redline), should I look at a) HTHS b) flash point c) NOACK d) vicosity @ 100 deg celcius e) something else? Thanks (edit-fixed spelling error in title) [ February 09, 2003, 07:18 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]
 
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113
Location
Atlanta, GA
Well...most are gonna say "5w-20 or 5w-30 is fine (even a 0w-20)" but if you rev it out like I used to do my 1999 Civic Si(R) (had a 1.6L 4 w/ 8K rpm redline) then, I KNOW youll need atleast an oil with a good viscosity @ 100C and HTHS, IMHO. I use and recommend Mobil1 0w-40 and suggest you try it esp if your engine is over 40K miles or so.
 
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556
Location
Michigan
40 weights please, not in no civic. Thats way too high. if anything, the highest you should go is mobil 1 10w30 or amsoil 5w30.
 
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33,973
Location
Southern NJ
If this were my car, I'd go with Amsoil's 0w-30. HT/HS 3.5 visc @100c is 11.2 This oil is on the heavier side of the 30. I think it would be a great oil in a high reving 4cyl. like the V-tec. Down the road, I'm looking into the Acura RSX or Mazda 6. I would run this oil in these cars. My next choice would be M1 10w-30. I think with M1 0w-40 you would loose HP, until it thins out a little. I personally have yet to do an oil analysis but based on specs. and opinion, this is what I would chose. [ February 07, 2003, 04:10 AM: Message edited by: buster ]
 

tai

Thread starter
Messages
54
Location
Austin, TX
Won't 40w oil mean a loss in power as well? After all, the moving parts in the engine has a more vicous fluid to move through. I'd like to stick with 30w oil if they will protect the engine almost as well, since the engine will rev more easily and get decent mileage.
 
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33,973
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Southern NJ
Yeah, I would tend to think you would lose a few HP. I would go with Amsoil 0w-30. This oil is very good. Expensive though. [Smile]
 

Patman

Staff member
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21,988
Location
Oakville, Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by rimmer1: Patman, I don't see a 5W40 on Redlines roster of products, maybe you mean 10W40?
Their 5w40 is new. I'm looking at a PDF file of it's specs right now.
 
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605
Location
Mississauga, Ontario
Is it a Honda with VTEC? If so, I'd say M1 0W40 if you want a commone "cheap" full synthetic. My Prelude still burns the M1 10w30, especially later in ther interval. I will use the 0w40 this interval and see how it goes. Oh and 0w40 or any other 40 weight oil is NOT "too heavy" [Roll Eyes] to put into a high revving engine.. especially a Honda engine with VTEC..
 
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199
Location
Michigan
So far, my 1.8 Litre VTEC hasn't consumed a drop of oil using M1 0W-40. It only has been about 500 miles but I am happy with it so far. Besides, I think a 40wt M1 oil is okay for engines that normally ask for a 30 wt, considering its viscocity is 14.4(I think) at 100 Deg. C, and from oil analysis seen here, it shears back to a 30wt anyway (about 12cst at 100 Deg C). This would explain why honda owners, especially Prelude owners don't really burn much oil until after the 1500 mile mark. I would be more inclined to take the M1 0W-40 up to the 6k interval than using M1 xW-30 oils.
 
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33,973
Location
Southern NJ
quote:
So far, my 1.8 Litre VTEC hasn't consumed a drop of oil using M1 0W-40. It only has been about 500 miles but I am happy with it so far. Besides, I think a 40wt M1 oil is okay for engines that normally ask for a 30 wt, considering its viscocity is 14.4(I think) at 100 Deg. C, and from oil analysis seen here, it shears back to a 30wt anyway (about 12cst at 100 Deg C). This would explain why honda owners, especially Prelude owners don't really burn much oil until after the 1500 mile mark. I would be more inclined to take the M1 0W-40 up to the 6k interval than using M1 xW-30 oils.
I think M1 0W-40 is a good choice. With engines now calling for 20wt. oils, the "thinning" out issue with M1 won't be a problem anymore and in fact there 30wt. oils would be a good choice too. [ February 07, 2003, 08:54 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
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188
Location
Evansville, In.
quote:
Originally posted by OneQuartLow: Hondaguy, from Honda Japan's 2003 Civic Owner's manual:  - Welcome to the land of CAFE.
Exactly These same and I think even lighter viscosities are recommended for such engines as the AMC 4.0 used in Jeeps [Roll Eyes] . The oil filler cap on my 91 S10 4.3 I used to have said to use 5w30... Jason
 

tai

Thread starter
Messages
54
Location
Austin, TX
It's a Miata, FYI. Don't know how relevant that is, with regards to a VTEC engine. I do know that when I had a Honda Civic (non-vtec), I could easily tell when I'm using 5w-30 vs 10w-30. Right now I'm using 0w-30 since it's winter, but in Summer plan to switch to 10w-30. I might just try 0w-40 in Summer and if the engine still feels rev-happy and my mileage doesn't plunge, I'll stick with it.
 
Messages
411
Location
Slinger, Wisconsin
quote:
Is 7000 RPM still considered high? [Wink]
Heh, even I don't have you beat. [Eek!] '97 Type R.... 8400 redline, 8600 fuel cut. Revs to 9000 indicated but thats around 8500/8600 actual. Anywho, Shaeffer 10w30 for my track whore. Moly content gets a big [Cheers!]
 
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113
Location
Atlanta, GA
Hey man, time for you to get some Toda stage 1 or 2 cams and some Ti springs and retainers and a new ecu and feel the power to 9100rpms!!! [Smile] [Smile] The 0w-40 is NOT too thick and is listed on Mobil's site as being okay to use in an engine calling for 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 5w-40, etc. My little Protege'5's 2 litre 4cy revs to 6500rpms and two oil changes ago I used 0w-40, then 0w-30 and now 0w-40 again and noticed no revving probs at all. Just MHO!
 
Messages
21
Location
San Diego, CA
Tai, I have two Miatas, a 1991 NA with 150000 miles and a 2001 NB2 SE with 6000 miles. The old beast gets Chevron Supreme 10-30 and the new kid gets Mobil 1 10-30. Both are quite happy. After an Auto RX treatment, even with 150000 miles, the older Miata still has full compression, no observable cam wear and uses no more that .25 quarts/ 1000 miles. When I was ignorant and believed oil folk lore, I used Valvoline, hense the need for Auto RX. Fortunately, no serious wear on anything. Either the 1.6 or 1.8 are **** near bullet proof. If you have a 2001 or later with the variable value timing, I think it's worth using a synthetic, just because there's more busy parts in the top end. Rich
 
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