Flushing tranny myself
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safely imo, no.. two things you can do.
1. take the return hose from your tranny cooler back to the tranny and disconnect it with the motor off. drain a quart out. add a fresh quart through your tranny dipstick and repeat process.
2. easier method, just do drain and fills every oil change up to 3-5 times and you will be good to go after that for 20k miles and do maintanence drain and fills. if you tow a lot or abuse it a little do a maintanence drain and fill every 10-15k miles.
1. take the return hose from your tranny cooler back to the tranny and disconnect it with the motor off. drain a quart out. add a fresh quart through your tranny dipstick and repeat process.
2. easier method, just do drain and fills every oil change up to 3-5 times and you will be good to go after that for 20k miles and do maintanence drain and fills. if you tow a lot or abuse it a little do a maintanence drain and fill every 10-15k miles.
I have started to flush my tranny becoz I am tired of asking my significant other and making her feel important on such a simple exercise.
Disconnect the return hose on the radiator, plug in a 1 meter hose to it and then flush (in the nissan 3/8" hose I get 2Q out by running the car for 20 sec).
I just run it for 40 sec for the first time, get 4Q out and then finish off with 20 sec run and then clean up everything.
Disconnect the return hose on the radiator, plug in a 1 meter hose to it and then flush (in the nissan 3/8" hose I get 2Q out by running the car for 20 sec).
I just run it for 40 sec for the first time, get 4Q out and then finish off with 20 sec run and then clean up everything.
Kestas
Staff member
Here's the fluid change method I use on all my cars that don't have a torque converter drain. This procedure has been posted before. I would have linked it, but the search feature on this board is useless.
1. Pull the transmission dipstick (located near the firewall in most cars). Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.
2. Make sure the fluid is warm.
3. For pans that don't have drain plugs, remove all pan bolts except for the corners. Remove the bolt from the lowest corner, then loosen the other corner bolts a turn or two. Carefully pry the pan to break the gasket seal at the lowest corner. Drain mostly from this corner. With good technique you can avoid or at least minimize the red bath.
4. Remove pan. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Remove all old gasket material. Clean the pan and magnet with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue. Shop air can be used to clean the magnet. Hammer back any pan damage from previous overtightening.
5. (Optional) Drill hole in pan at low point and install a drain kit available from most auto supply houses. Make sure the kit protruding inside the pan doesn't interfere with anything on the transmission.
6. Replace filter. If it’s a metal screen filter, it can probably be cleaned and reused.
7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the four bolts and gasket in place.
8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper ft-lbs as per manufacturer.
9. Refill the transmission using only the amount shown as “refill capacity” in the owners manual (or an equal amount that was drained), using the type of fluid specified for the vehicle.
10. You now have replaced the trans fluid and filter according to manufacturer’s requirements. Fluid is changed in the pan only.
You can stop here and go to Step 17 if you just wanted a regular drop-the-pan fluid change. For a complete exchange of the fluid (including transmission body and torquer converter) continue with the next steps.
11. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle from the manufacturer. Have this amount - plus a bit more - of fluid readily available.
12. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. Tickle the ignition to find the flow direction. Direct the stream of fluid toward a receptacle. It is better to use a clear length of hose with a shoplight laying next to it so you can see when all the old fluid has left the system.
13. Start the engine, let it idle to pump out old trans fluid until you start seeing air bubbles.
14. Stop the engine. Refill transmission through fill tube with fresh fluid - same amount as pumped out (usually about 2-3 quarts).
15. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All trans fluid has now been changed.
16. Button everything back up. Clean up the mess.
17. Recheck the fluid level. With the car on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in “Park” or “Neutral.” Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission through all detents, pausing momentarily at each position, before returning the lever to “Park” or “Neutral.” Check the fluid level again and check for leaks. Refill fluid so it is slightly undercharged. This way it can be properly checked and topped off after a long drive.
1. Pull the transmission dipstick (located near the firewall in most cars). Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.
2. Make sure the fluid is warm.
3. For pans that don't have drain plugs, remove all pan bolts except for the corners. Remove the bolt from the lowest corner, then loosen the other corner bolts a turn or two. Carefully pry the pan to break the gasket seal at the lowest corner. Drain mostly from this corner. With good technique you can avoid or at least minimize the red bath.
4. Remove pan. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Remove all old gasket material. Clean the pan and magnet with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue. Shop air can be used to clean the magnet. Hammer back any pan damage from previous overtightening.
5. (Optional) Drill hole in pan at low point and install a drain kit available from most auto supply houses. Make sure the kit protruding inside the pan doesn't interfere with anything on the transmission.
6. Replace filter. If it’s a metal screen filter, it can probably be cleaned and reused.
7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the four bolts and gasket in place.
8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper ft-lbs as per manufacturer.
9. Refill the transmission using only the amount shown as “refill capacity” in the owners manual (or an equal amount that was drained), using the type of fluid specified for the vehicle.
10. You now have replaced the trans fluid and filter according to manufacturer’s requirements. Fluid is changed in the pan only.
You can stop here and go to Step 17 if you just wanted a regular drop-the-pan fluid change. For a complete exchange of the fluid (including transmission body and torquer converter) continue with the next steps.
11. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle from the manufacturer. Have this amount - plus a bit more - of fluid readily available.
12. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. Tickle the ignition to find the flow direction. Direct the stream of fluid toward a receptacle. It is better to use a clear length of hose with a shoplight laying next to it so you can see when all the old fluid has left the system.
13. Start the engine, let it idle to pump out old trans fluid until you start seeing air bubbles.
14. Stop the engine. Refill transmission through fill tube with fresh fluid - same amount as pumped out (usually about 2-3 quarts).
15. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All trans fluid has now been changed.
16. Button everything back up. Clean up the mess.
17. Recheck the fluid level. With the car on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in “Park” or “Neutral.” Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission through all detents, pausing momentarily at each position, before returning the lever to “Park” or “Neutral.” Check the fluid level again and check for leaks. Refill fluid so it is slightly undercharged. This way it can be properly checked and topped off after a long drive.
I have read (myth?) that on a few particular models, the position of the transmission shifter is important when using the cooler line method, i.e., park, drive, or neutral.
Can anyone elaborate?
Thanks
Can anyone elaborate?
Thanks
You will find out as soon as you start the engine.
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Allegedly, some cooler flows are blocked in PARK. I've never encountered it ..but a trans rebuild guy once remarked about a mid 90's Ford OD trans having this feature/characteristic.
..but as SteveS says, you'll find out. If PARK doesn't do it ..NEUTRAL should.
if you drain from the torque converter and you have the vehicle runnning to please remember to replenish the new atf as quickly as possible, your tranny running with low atf fluid can damage it. thats why i said one qt at a time.. pull one qt out and put one new one in..
Kestas
Staff member
For those that can drain the torque converter, one manufacturer requires that half the fluid drained out should be replaced, start the car, then add the remaining fluid.
Yes, you can safely flush your transmission completely by yourself using the cooler line method.
1 quart at a time cooler line flush is a waste. You are dumping one quart of clean ATF which instantly mixes with ~4+ quarts of old ATF still in the pan, which is then mixed with ~4+ quarts of ATF in the torque converter. Waste of time for marginal results.
The amount of ATF that you want to flow from the disconnected cooler line is your pan capacity. You'll figure it out quickly once the cooler line starts blowing bubbles. A clear hose from loewsdepot clamped to your ATF cooler's line give you the aiming extension and ability to watch your flush. You should always have a 2nd person available for starting/stopping the engine.
You'll need 2-3x the pan capacity to flush out a high percentage of the old ATF.
Multiple pan/drops is a hassle for those pans without drainplugs. A drainplug kit is an option since more frequent drain/refills truly eliminates the need for flushes.
Some transmissions use thermostats. Flush your transmission when HOT and not warm. As the new cold ATF hits the thermostat, flow will reduce and stop. This makes the full flush all but impossible without bypassing the thermoatat.
To make drainplugless pan drops less messy for filter changes, the cooler line disconnect can be used to pump the pan almost empty for filter servicing.
1 quart at a time cooler line flush is a waste. You are dumping one quart of clean ATF which instantly mixes with ~4+ quarts of old ATF still in the pan, which is then mixed with ~4+ quarts of ATF in the torque converter. Waste of time for marginal results.
The amount of ATF that you want to flow from the disconnected cooler line is your pan capacity. You'll figure it out quickly once the cooler line starts blowing bubbles. A clear hose from loewsdepot clamped to your ATF cooler's line give you the aiming extension and ability to watch your flush. You should always have a 2nd person available for starting/stopping the engine.
You'll need 2-3x the pan capacity to flush out a high percentage of the old ATF.
Multiple pan/drops is a hassle for those pans without drainplugs. A drainplug kit is an option since more frequent drain/refills truly eliminates the need for flushes.
Some transmissions use thermostats. Flush your transmission when HOT and not warm. As the new cold ATF hits the thermostat, flow will reduce and stop. This makes the full flush all but impossible without bypassing the thermoatat.
To make drainplugless pan drops less messy for filter changes, the cooler line disconnect can be used to pump the pan almost empty for filter servicing.
so basically you are running the tranny minus 2-4 qts?? if so thats not smart at all
No, you're not driving around 2-4 quarts low. Yes, it is smart to completely remove as much of your old ATF. This is a FLUSH. The point of a FLUSH is to remove as much of the old ATF as possible. You're recommend to dilly dally with single quarts. I'm recommending a complete, as much as possible, old fluid removal and replacement with new fluid.
What you need to do if pull a few trannies apart. You'll see that there is NOTHING wrong with a complete cooler line flush, which BTW is pretty common in various Ford factory service manuals. Rarely do I agree with OE, but they just happen to be right when it comes to majority fluid exchange.
What you need to do if pull a few trannies apart. You'll see that there is NOTHING wrong with a complete cooler line flush, which BTW is pretty common in various Ford factory service manuals. Rarely do I agree with OE, but they just happen to be right when it comes to majority fluid exchange.
My friend, the tranny if fully lubricated with oil pockets all over the place. Now even if you disconnect the return line and run the car till bubbles show up, I bet you will not damage the tranny (though I don't do it). The way I do it is drain the pan (get 4 Q out), fill fresh ATF (5 Q), disconnect the line connected to radiator, start the vehicle going over each gear for 10 sec for a total of 40 sec. Shut the vehicle off, fill in 4 Q of fresh ATF, start again for 20 sec thereby getting another 2Q out (by now a total of 10Q is out). Connect the return line, add 1 Q and check for level and fill as required to bring it between H and L.
One method worth consideration for many is to drain what you can (or suck it out) and refill. Do this every 15-30k. We use this in fleet service and have stopped flushing except when problems are encountered with a given transmission. With over 10 years and a lot of vehicles we can not tell, looking at the data, the difference between the drain and refill (15-30k) method vs. complete flushing (usually 60k).
In some vehicles without a drain plug we remove the pan and install a bung or in some way install a drain plug. It's a little extra work the first time but it's worth the effort. Now in most vehicles with a dipstick we suck out the fluid. We have done lab analysis to compare and over the long term can not tell the difference. We don't take for granted that one method of maintenance is better than another, we test. We do install inline filters and the one supplied by site sponsor Magnafine (spelling?) works well.
In some vehicles without a drain plug we remove the pan and install a bung or in some way install a drain plug. It's a little extra work the first time but it's worth the effort. Now in most vehicles with a dipstick we suck out the fluid. We have done lab analysis to compare and over the long term can not tell the difference. We don't take for granted that one method of maintenance is better than another, we test. We do install inline filters and the one supplied by site sponsor Magnafine (spelling?) works well.
maybe you misunderstood me.. you do it one quart at a time.. take one quart out, put one back in through the dipstick and repeat. this is flushing, well basically you are taking the oldest fluid out and replacing with new fluid one quart at a time and do it atleast 10 times. yeah its time consuming but at no point in time are you running low when the tranny is running.. in your case the tranny is running while low in atf fluid correct? if i am wrong then i cant read and ill shut up haha
mikeg5,
But your method is not changing much of the old fluid. You are constantly mixing 1 qt of new fluid with the old, therefore a larger portion of the flushed fluid is only minutes old & marginal ATF will remain.
But your method is not changing much of the old fluid. You are constantly mixing 1 qt of new fluid with the old, therefore a larger portion of the flushed fluid is only minutes old & marginal ATF will remain.
no the older fluid will be near the radiator (given that its cooled auto tranny) when you take one qt out of the torque converter, put one in the dip stick. i know quite a few gusy that do this.. you can see the darker fluid coming out of the torgue converter each time and when it starts to lighten up do a few more and you are done.. it may not be perfect but its an easy do it yourself job and it gets most of the older fluid out..... me i just drain and fill and say ---- it. i do it ever 10-15k miles
to add to that.. let me clarify.. when you unplug the cooler line turn the motor on. drain one quart. turn the motor off fill in one clean qt and repeat process.. i know guys with 300k miles on orginal auto trannies by doing this .. and no it didnt ---- their starter up haha
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