I trust you - weird that it didn't appear. OK I'm mellowed out and can get back to oil!!!
flushing oil..theroy..
- Thread starter digitaldrifter91
- Start date
- Status
Bob's quote
". I also find that if your oil is staying exceptionally clean then it isn't doing it's job as it should suspend by products of the engines gases and cause the oil to darken some. A clean oil shows it may not be carrying off and suspending this. All engines produce some by products and thus all oils should be demonstrating this to some degree. Those that don't turn dark, I question its ability to maintain a clean engine."
In my case (daughter's 93 Topaz) I had been using SuperTech and the muffler shop put in Valvoline along with a Valvoline (rather than SuperTech) filter. In the last case, I think that both filters are Champion Labs. Previous oil changes were quite clean for a high mileage engine, but in this case things aren't darkening up much at all.
". I also find that if your oil is staying exceptionally clean then it isn't doing it's job as it should suspend by products of the engines gases and cause the oil to darken some. A clean oil shows it may not be carrying off and suspending this. All engines produce some by products and thus all oils should be demonstrating this to some degree. Those that don't turn dark, I question its ability to maintain a clean engine."
In my case (daughter's 93 Topaz) I had been using SuperTech and the muffler shop put in Valvoline along with a Valvoline (rather than SuperTech) filter. In the last case, I think that both filters are Champion Labs. Previous oil changes were quite clean for a high mileage engine, but in this case things aren't darkening up much at all.
(too bad we still can't edit)...
I should add that I have a bit of suspicion about places with bulk oil tanks sitting around as to just what's being put in there, although in this case the shop was new. Rusting tanks of old crap out back is one thing, someone stiffing the company by buying pirate non-detergent oil and screwing the franchise on a phony bill back scheme is another.
I should add that I have a bit of suspicion about places with bulk oil tanks sitting around as to just what's being put in there, although in this case the shop was new. Rusting tanks of old crap out back is one thing, someone stiffing the company by buying pirate non-detergent oil and screwing the franchise on a phony bill back scheme is another.
In my 15 yr old car which is fuel injected , I hook up a Redline injection cleaner to the intake manifold with a small hose. Rev the engine , watch if any blue smoke comes out of the exhast. when no more smoke spews out, i consider the intake valves and the top of the pistons clean along with the intake runners. Next day I change the oil and all the crap comes out. I did that on a sludged Corrado and the blue smoke engulfed the neighbors house !!!
dd91,
I understand your desire to rationalize a use for all that 10W-40 you've got lying around, but I think your reasoning & methods are not valid. I think that all you're doing is rinsing stuff off of parts & not "flushing" anything in the way that an engine cleaner would.
I haven't seen anyone suggest it yet, but wouldn't a HIGHLY detergent oil along the lines of Delvac/Delo/Rotella be a better way to coax out crud without affecting seals? I mean, if you REALLY want to get stuff out of the engine (as opposed to just rinsing off all the discolored liquid from the previous cycle), run a 1k mi round of D/D/R & fresh filter once or twice (& another new filter!) before putting in your "real" oil. Or, for the hemorrhoidally-challenged
of us around here, even between EVERY 10k mi oil drain.
Then, you could use that 10W-40 as top-up oil between changes.
I understand your desire to rationalize a use for all that 10W-40 you've got lying around, but I think your reasoning & methods are not valid. I think that all you're doing is rinsing stuff off of parts & not "flushing" anything in the way that an engine cleaner would.
I haven't seen anyone suggest it yet, but wouldn't a HIGHLY detergent oil along the lines of Delvac/Delo/Rotella be a better way to coax out crud without affecting seals? I mean, if you REALLY want to get stuff out of the engine (as opposed to just rinsing off all the discolored liquid from the previous cycle), run a 1k mi round of D/D/R & fresh filter once or twice (& another new filter!) before putting in your "real" oil. Or, for the hemorrhoidally-challenged
Then, you could use that 10W-40 as top-up oil between changes.
I have to agree that flushing to get cleaner looking oil out is not very useful. I saw the diesel engine in my 95 4Runner taken apart at 100,000 km (after it floated downstream in a flash flood) and it was spotless. I saw the gasoline engine in my 93 Grand Cherokee taken apart to change the lifters and weak valve springs at 77,000 miles and it too was spotless. Both had been on a good Group I 20w50 with 6,000 km changes.
When customers change from SF and CC oils to what I have, I recommend changing at 2000 km, then 4000 km, finally at 6000 km.
After all the comments on this board it is tempting to try the market for either the Schaeffer Neutra 131 or Auto RX, but that is another story.
When customers change from SF and CC oils to what I have, I recommend changing at 2000 km, then 4000 km, finally at 6000 km.
After all the comments on this board it is tempting to try the market for either the Schaeffer Neutra 131 or Auto RX, but that is another story.
- Status
Similar threads
