hi its me again. well i have so much time on my hands i came up wiht this theroy. since there are engine cleaners out there to flush oil why not do it another way. engine cleaners are sometimes bad on your seals. most of the time people who do use them end up with problems down the road. with that in mind why not just flush your oil, fill it up with some cheap clean oil. run it, and then drain it again?? you wont risk the fact that you are putting a cleaner with harsh detergents in the oil. you are just using an oil to basically "flush" what ever was left behind...what you guys think?
flushing oil..theroy..
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Patman
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True, this will flush out more of the dirty oil, however it won't really clean the engine totally like a good engine cleaner would (such as Schaeffer's Neutra 131 or Auto RX)
I think that its a good Idea as opposed to flushing. Its probably overkill though unless the engine has been totally abused in terms of oil changing. You might also want to throw on a SuperTech or other cheap filter to really do it right and then run it up to temperature and on the highway for half an hour or so to get the rpm's up.
That method of flushing would work, but for a very dirty engine it could take a long time and several oil changes until most of the old, hardened deposits were loosened and removed. I've never had a problem with using a flush occasionally. Using a flush more than once a year would probably be too much. Even once a year is a lot. Most are only meant to be in the engine for only a few minutes. I doubt they could do much damage unless they uncover seals that are already deteriorated.
I had a muffler shop change a bad valve cover gasket on my daughter's car--Mercury Topaz with 150,000+ miles. The boobs insisted on changing the oil even though there was less than 200 miles after an oil change. (I yelled about enough so that they later gave me a free oil change coupon.)
Well, it may be wishful thinking, but the oil looks a lot cleaner than it did, even after 2500 miles on the present oil change.
Well, it may be wishful thinking, but the oil looks a lot cleaner than it did, even after 2500 miles on the present oil change.
Propflux01
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I am sure the main reason they wanted to change the oil is when they were removing the baked-on cover, some of the gasket probably fell into the engine, and they wanted to make sure it all got out.
welp i changed my oil and did my theroy. it really worked! when i first drained the oil it looked dark brown. so i left the old filter in there and then filled it up with some castrol i had lying around. i filled it to capacity and ran it for 2 minutes. i should of went longer but i watned to see if it was doing ne thing. i drained it and more dark brown stuff came out. i then went another time and then it came out clean. i guess it was mainly the crap in the filter, but really i now know that at least most of the dirty stuff is out of the engine itself.
now i run a bosch oil filter instead of that fram, and mobil 1 drive clean 10w-30 with one qt of clean blend (semi synthetic). pretty good prices for this mobil one stuff..just like any ordinary oil.
when i drove my car i can feel a very light differnce in low end power. yet i had a much smoother ride than ever before.
now im going to do my tranny fluid for my 91 accord I4 2.2l auto.
hehe it may seem i wasted oil, but really this oil has been around for years, might as well used the 10w-40 lying around =)
now i run a bosch oil filter instead of that fram, and mobil 1 drive clean 10w-30 with one qt of clean blend (semi synthetic). pretty good prices for this mobil one stuff..just like any ordinary oil.
when i drove my car i can feel a very light differnce in low end power. yet i had a much smoother ride than ever before.
now im going to do my tranny fluid for my 91 accord I4 2.2l auto.
hehe it may seem i wasted oil, but really this oil has been around for years, might as well used the 10w-40 lying around =)
that isn't mobil 1... that's mobil drive clean. mobil 1 is fully synthetic and costs about $30 cdn.
...for 4L (why can't you edit posts??)
Rather than adding the blend, you might want to add a quart of Mobil 1. My understanding is that the blends have only about 10-20% synthetic. So if your goal is to have some synthetic you are only driving around with probably 5% syn. In the grand scheme of things you are probably getting little benefit.
As I have said before (just in jest
Add a cup of sewage to a barrel of wine you have sewage.
It'll work, but it will take more than one "flush" - also check out my flush procedure at my web site for a killer deluxe - other end of the spectrum flush that includes both methods!
yea..i dont want alot of syntetic in my system. im scared in my 91 accord that it may kill a few seals.
SO your saying MINE ISNT MOBILE 1?????? it is right?? mAn
i wanted to put a full syntetic with my regular oil. but i was sceptical. so since i knew for a fact that mobil drive clean and clean blend were compadible i went for it. maybe next time.
Pablo you said that you have a site, i like to read on it post it please.
i looked at a few of the stats and in some cases castrol gtx is better than mobil drive clean. werid...man i thought i was set in a good oil. now i have to find another kind or something. haha i dont feel like ordering oil.
SO your saying MINE ISNT MOBILE 1?????? it is right?? mAn
i wanted to put a full syntetic with my regular oil. but i was sceptical. so since i knew for a fact that mobil drive clean and clean blend were compadible i went for it. maybe next time.
Pablo you said that you have a site, i like to read on it post it please.
i looked at a few of the stats and in some cases castrol gtx is better than mobil drive clean. werid...man i thought i was set in a good oil. now i have to find another kind or something. haha i dont feel like ordering oil.
You had the bottle in your hand, what did it say? Mobil Drive Clean is a very good petroleum oil. Mobil Drive Clean Blend is that oil with some synthetic blended in (probably not enough to be worth the extra cost). Mobil 1 is nothing but synthetic. If it said Drive Clean, it wasn't Mobil 1. Don't worry, Drive Clean is excellent.
Ken
haha cool! thankyou for clearing that up. man. i was about to say for a sec. thanks man
TO "digitaldrifter91"
Sorry but rules state that you will not solicit or promote any products services or sites, nor self-promote (either in your Postings or in your profiles) for personal or business gain within the message board. bw.
Not sure about seals concern and syn. lots of good info on the topic -
[ October 30, 2002, 08:54 AM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
Sorry but rules state that you will not solicit or promote any products services or sites, nor self-promote (either in your Postings or in your profiles) for personal or business gain within the message board. bw.
Not sure about seals concern and syn. lots of good info on the topic -
[ October 30, 2002, 08:54 AM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
Paul, in looking at your flushing advise, might I suggest something to consider...
5) Drive until near E then fill again. The idea is to get the injectors and chambers clean, then make sure all the cleaner is burned up and diluted. Plus some of this and the dirt/FI cleaner will end up in the oil. (Don't want this stuff in your new oil) Now time to get rid of the old oil.
This is a bad idea IMO as it will cause more problems for people than you can imagine. By running a tank dry such as suggested you will pull the basic bad sediment that is in the lower part of the tank and cause injector fouling. In any injector system it is not advisable to ever really run your vehicle down past the 1/4 mark on your tank due to this. Any water deposits, dirt, or any other sediment due to long years of use will be on the bottom and will injest into the pump to the injectors if drained too low. I myself have experienced this first hand and it took a bit to get it cleared.
As for oil drains, by doing this oil drain proceedure, it obviously won't hurt but it will not clean an engine as well as using a neutralizer to breakdown the acid build up on the engine due to long term use. I also find that if your oil is staying exceptionally clean then it isn't doing it's job as it should suspend by products of the engines gases and cause the oil to darken some. A clean oil shows it may not be carrying off and suspending this. All engines produce some by products and thus all oils should be demonstrating this to some degree. Those that don't turn dark, I question its ability to maintain a clean engine.
just something to think about.
5) Drive until near E then fill again. The idea is to get the injectors and chambers clean, then make sure all the cleaner is burned up and diluted. Plus some of this and the dirt/FI cleaner will end up in the oil. (Don't want this stuff in your new oil) Now time to get rid of the old oil.
This is a bad idea IMO as it will cause more problems for people than you can imagine. By running a tank dry such as suggested you will pull the basic bad sediment that is in the lower part of the tank and cause injector fouling. In any injector system it is not advisable to ever really run your vehicle down past the 1/4 mark on your tank due to this. Any water deposits, dirt, or any other sediment due to long years of use will be on the bottom and will injest into the pump to the injectors if drained too low. I myself have experienced this first hand and it took a bit to get it cleared.
As for oil drains, by doing this oil drain proceedure, it obviously won't hurt but it will not clean an engine as well as using a neutralizer to breakdown the acid build up on the engine due to long term use. I also find that if your oil is staying exceptionally clean then it isn't doing it's job as it should suspend by products of the engines gases and cause the oil to darken some. A clean oil shows it may not be carrying off and suspending this. All engines produce some by products and thus all oils should be demonstrating this to some degree. Those that don't turn dark, I question its ability to maintain a clean engine.
just something to think about.
1) The guy had asked for my link. I wasn't pushing anything. Sorry. Won't happen again. I'll email off line if anyone asks.
2) I agree, running a gas tank way low is not a good thing. I didn't mean to imply rub all the wy to "E", OTOH - folks should avoid allowing the fuel tank contents to get in such sad condition.
3) As for nuetralizing - not a bad idea, but I'm thinking with the rapid change out and a good oil with a decent TBN - this shouldn't be a huge concern.
4) I agree that oil color in use doesn't mean too much - other than the oil is doing the intended job.
sorrie if i got u in trouble man. that rule slipped my mind.
im confused..u guys talking about gas now?
im confused..u guys talking about gas now?
The gas discussion comes from my recomendation to also run a FI cleaner (several times if possible) through the fuel system before flushing oil.
No biggie - I'm new to this forum, and didn't know the hardness of the rules, also realize that the owner(s) and moderators have final say - OK by me.
The only thing that got my goat was the last part of my post was snipped also - you had mentioned seals and synthetic - I answered that on the front page of bobistheoilguy.com under the NEW section was a link to a seal soak study (warts and all) - don't know why this was cut out.
The only thing that got my goat was the last part of my post was snipped also - you had mentioned seals and synthetic - I answered that on the front page of bobistheoilguy.com under the NEW section was a link to a seal soak study (warts and all) - don't know why this was cut out.
Trust me when I tell you, I have no reason nor desire to edit out text. In the above case, I did not edit out anything EXCEPT info directing to your site .
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