fluorescent to led question

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My fluorescent kitchen lights flicker a bit. I suspect that l need a new starter and/or ballister. I saw LED replacement lights that appear to fit in the socket. Would LED lights work without any modifications and would they flicker? Can l just install LEDs and have my problems solved? Seems to easy to be true.
 
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Straight 120/220v (cutting out/bypassing the ballast) retrofits seem to work the best overall for reliability, efficiency, and better power factor correction (sometimes). There are even dimmable options out there now. That being said, there are tons of 4ft t8 drop-in retrofits out there that require no modification (assuming electronic ballast) and cost $4-10/bulb depending on how many you buy. Make sure to keep track of receipts in case they burn out or dim during the warranty period - I had a couple go bad.
 
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I have converted my basement fluorescents by removing the tubes/ballasts, sticking LED's strips in there and connecting them to 12 volt drivers that take a 110v input. Works great.
 
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I have over 40 LED replacement tubes. Get the ones that are ballast bypass. The ballasts burn KW and still hum. It's not hard to rewire the fixtures. My last 10 tubes were $56 from ebay and my eyes tell me I have more light, my bills are lower.
 
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Most of them, the ballast have to be removed and the electric comes only from 1 side. The other side is just the fitting. The fitting needs to be non-shunted.
 
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The ballast (either the old magnetic or new electronic) are going the way of VHS tapes....... 5 meter (300 LED) strips light my entire shop now.
 
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I had 3 sets of 2 4' fluorescent lights in a lightbox centered in the kitchen ceiling. I've never really like fluorescent lights so I replaced them with a 4' LED in the place of each pair of fluorescent lights. Now when you turn on the lights in the kitchen it's like having the sun in your kitchen. I really like it, now. I guess I miscalculated how bright they are but that's okay.
 
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If you use a LED tube that still requires a ballast, it won't work if the ballast goes bad. You said you suspect your ballast may be going bad. I recommend buying LEDs that bypass the ballast and rewiring the fixture.
 
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I purchased 6 Costco 4 foot LED's, nice and bright! They use the ballast. I tried running one without the ballast and it seems intolerant of that, but it did light up for a while. I found that they would not function properly on some of my electronic ballasts. I also purchased 6 ballast bypass 4 foot LED's on Amazon, made by Hyperikon. It was a simple matter to follow the instructions and rewire the unit. Basically one removes the ballast by cutting the wires RIGHT at the ballast, then hook the existing wires right to the power wires, as directed. Simple, easy and very effective. They work wonderfully! I wish I had gone this route the first time.
 
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Originally Posted By: exranger06
If you use a LED tube that still requires a ballast, it won't work if the ballast goes bad. You said you suspect your ballast may be going bad. I recommend buying LEDs that bypass the ballast and rewiring the fixture.
This. I have edison-base LEDs and when my fridge cycles they flicker slightly yet very noticeably. LEDs can magnify poor power conditions, and a bad ballast would certainly qualify.
 
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I buy the 4'LEDs at Menard's. They have three replacement types. One for electronic ballast, one for the old magnetic ones and the one with no ballast. All about $7-$10 a tube or less.
 
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