Fluid flush for TH-700 and TH-200

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My wife's Blazer needs a fluid flush. Is there any reason to NOT simply use store-brand D-III ATF?

1986 K-5 Blazer with Tatonka Products "Bummer" body, originally a 6.2 diesel, now has a turbocharged Optimiser 6500 Hummvee engine. Rebuilt 700 with deep pan and a shift kit I think is B&M. NP208 T-case, 3.73 gears and 35x12.50R15 tires. Has huge tube-and-fin trans cooler that is actually a fluid cooler from an old concrete mixer truck.
 
Pictures of that would be awesome.

Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
My wife's Blazer needs a fluid flush. Is there any reason to NOT simply use store-brand D-III ATF?

1986 K-5 Blazer with Tatonka Products "Bummer" body, originally a 6.2 diesel, now has a turbocharged Optimiser 6500 Hummvee engine. Rebuilt 700 with deep pan and a shift kit I think is B&M. NP208 T-case, 3.73 gears and 35x12.50R15 tires. Has huge tube-and-fin trans cooler that is actually a fluid cooler from an old concrete mixer truck.
 
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Pictures of that would be awesome.

Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
My wife's Blazer needs a fluid flush. Is there any reason to NOT simply use store-brand D-III ATF?

1986 K-5 Blazer with Tatonka Products "Bummer" body, originally a 6.2 diesel, now has a turbocharged Optimiser 6500 Hummvee engine. Rebuilt 700 with deep pan and a shift kit I think is B&M. NP208 T-case, 3.73 gears and 35x12.50R15 tires. Has huge tube-and-fin trans cooler that is actually a fluid cooler from an old concrete mixer truck.
I agree, pics would be great!
 
I have been using Supertech DexIII in my Jeep's AW-4 for a while now.

I do change it quite frequently, but I do use it hard. Seems to work fine for me
 
I used Coastal ATF to get a 528e 20 odd miles to a shop to change a torn lip seal. Only took 2 qts out of the gallon. So I used the rest and never had any trouble. As long as it says it can used in that age car. After '07 the ATF is differnt or some such. The cooler on a Grand wag was a pressed aluminum gizmo that the beach pinholed easily. My brother gave me the sort of cooler you describe. Weighed a couple pounds and held a qt. I hung it on straps. and never had any troubles.
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If you had a custom rebuilt transmission, you should check with your rebuilder. Some rebuilders will not want the same fluid as OEM, some rebuilders call for Type F.
 
The guy who built the trans for my Caddy spec'd Type F. Dexron III or 6 in Liz's GN. We have no idea who built the Blazer's trans.
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Unless you are tracking your vehicles and the tranny has a special racing rebuild, you do not want Type "F."

I used to race Suburbans with 700R4's and TH400s and I can tell you that the 700R4 is NOT a good racing ranny.

A rebuilt TH400 with a racing rebuild is the best for racing and you can use a Type "F" in it.

MaxLife should work fine in your vehicles.
 
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There is no reason not to use any store brand Dex/Merc.

Merc V and Dex VI would be upgrades, as would any other blend or full synth that mentions the required Dexron spec.

ATF temps? Too big of a cooler could prevent ATF from reaching a high enough temp for efficiency and condensation venting.
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Unless you are tracking your vehicles and the tranny has a special racing rebuild, you do not want Type "F."

I used to race Suburbans with 700R4's and TH400s and I can tell you that the 700R4 is NOT a good racing ranny.

A rebuilt TH400 with a racing rebuild is the best for racing and you can use a Type "F" in it.

MaxLife should work fine in your vehicles.


The guy who built the TH200-4R in my Caddy said to use Type F. I have over 85,000 miles on it, including probably 20-25 drag runs.

The 700 is just in Liz's Blazer...no racing involved.
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