Fixing two pet peeves on the Ford Taurus

The reservoir is attached with a 10mm bolt and one of those clip-on nuts at the front and a clip-on bolt and 10mm nut at the back. You can see one at 5:22 and the other at 6:01 in the video. You're welcome. ;)


And please display the flag with respect or not at all. (y) Flag decals on the side windows would be better and more people would see them.
 
The reservoir is attached with a 10mm bolt and one of those clip-on nuts at the front and a clip-on bolt and 10mm nut at the back. You can see one at 5:22 and the other at 6:01 in the video. You're welcome. ;)


And please display the flag with respect or not at all. (y) Flag decals on the side windows would be better and more people would see them.

Likely M6x1.0, taking a 10mm socket. A 10mm bolt is huge for such an application.

Many BITOGers are scaring me with talk of zip ties, etc. I'm a HUGE fan of nutserts when access allows. They look clean and work well. I have a huge stash of a 1/4-20 nutserts so that's primarily what I use, but you can of course get M6 if you wish.

I've got the Astro drill-powered nutsert tool and it's served me well.
 
Can you not just ring Ford for the coolant tank fixings. If they are NLA then they will most likely be happy to pass over the part numbers for you to Google
 
Maybe "today?" Some of you may know and most may not, but, one of the vehicles I have is a 3rd or 4th generation Taurus (the one after the Round Rear Window model that looks almost as dumb as a Tesla. My opinion of course.)
hey bud, that window is round like the rest of the car. It launched as mucha world copy-design fest (still on today) as the 'stang did 20 or so yrs earlier ("coke bottle' was the phrase @ the time). See the white wagon a lill below yours.
Then look at how the Japanese copied/transitioned to that... which the Continent did subsequently to them.
Just like all the bulge-mo-biles went away late 50s & the square, nice straight lines came into cars in early 60s. It went the reverse from early - to - late '80's w/this vehicle. I'm waitin 4 the 'straight' to come back. Hate all the sloping after the B pillar. No room in back.
Enjoy yours~
 
That original Duratec engine was quite the unit for the time. While they grew and matured over the years, I remember the original 3.0L being quite a hoot, possessing (dare I say) a hint of the former Yamaha V6 in the SHO. Outside the Taurus, the 2.5L SVT-tuned unit in the Contour was a real treat to wind out.
 
I thought I'd be the first with the zip tie recommendation but I'm actually the fourth, LOL.

A FL820s is not the right filter for this car-- it has 22mm threads. The FL400s/ 3614 has 3/4-16 threads.
 
On this '09 Focus after I installed an aftermarket core support I used 1/4-20 nutserts for the rad overflow bottle. If you don't like the Phillips screws you can use a SHCS, BHCS, HHCS, whatever floats your boat.....

It's clean, simple, effective and strong. No plastic to break later. No clip nuts to rattle off. If you hate Amuhreecan use a metric nutsert

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Can just make out the flange of the nutsert here under the bottle
 
I had an '06 SE
The power points are meant to work that way
The coolant bottle needs to be lifted, have the retaining lug pushed down into the opening, slid down, then some J clips/a bolt will secure it down
Replace the degas bottle cap with a new Motorcraft one, you have the old faulty design
Use a Motorcraft FL400S, that's the OE filter
 
Well, I thought I would give everyone an update on the Ford.

This is the present state of the coolant reservoir. Snapped it this morning (the picture, not the zip tie.) Decided on a zip tie because.. it LOOKS like an "anchor" for the screw to screw into.. is missing (nowhere for threads to bite.) Tech'N Moto did a video on replacement and while I can't get a good view of where he screwed, he must have somewhere where screwing in and removing a screw is easy. On mine, it seems to be completely gone. Not sure how it got that way, this car as far as I know has NOT been in any major accidents so it will remain a mystery. Just that, again, what brought this thread on was that it is just kind of laying in there. As far as I can tell, for no good reason. So that will be fixed. And here we are.

Perhaps the mechanic shop stole it and used it on a car they needed to sell, as they also have a pretty lucrative auto sales business as well. Some are Fords . But that's neither here nor there.

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And there IS coolant in there, it's just that funky Ovaltine Orange Brown-ish color that makes me think the coolant system has either never been serviced, had the Orange Dex-Cool in it, or both. I've partially refilled with the Universal Yellow and added some RMI-25 for good measure, as heating performance is poor to marginal in this cold, especially with the fan on high. This leads me to suspect clog in heater core. The level is almost impossible to see but it is just above the ridge and maybe you can see it. Didn't have a flashlight. This tank was replaced once already as the old one had a leak at lower connector, just like Tech'N Moto described.

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Cigarette lighter fuse.. it is under the dash so that's easy. Was looking in the wrong place.

And. The flag is neatly displayed on the rear deck lid. We did straighten and re-tape it since original pic, since it clearly had shifted a little bit. It is anchored to cloth and fabric. There really isn't any other place to neatly and proudly display it on a passenger sedan, without obstructing the window, which then becomes a moving violation . Kept clean, aligned in the center, USA. See many trucks with the flag replacing the brand emblem, also decals. Let the patriotic spirit reign. And its very American to be proud enough to display the flag. I don't think it is being done in a disrespectful manner. The torn-up ones on giant poles.. maybe those, because they are frayed and worn.

That's the update.

I had an '06 SE
The power points are meant to work that way
The coolant bottle needs to be lifted, have the retaining lug pushed down into the opening, slid down, then some J clips/a bolt will secure it down
Replace the degas bottle cap with a new Motorcraft one, you have the old faulty design
Use a Motorcraft FL400S, that's the OE filter
I will absolutely have to pick one of those up. Thank you!

Still at a loss about where the bolts went but. I will get on that! Thank you sir @michaelluscher
 
I don’t want to sound like an arse, but a poster earlier in the thread told you that the mounting uses a threaded speed nut, this is fitted using the square cut out that you have used for the cable tie.

Why ask for help if you don’t read the replies, especially when you lack understanding of basic vehicle assembly.
 
I don’t want to sound like an arse, but a poster earlier in the thread told you that the mounting uses a threaded speed nut, this is fitted using the square cut out that you have used for the cable tie.

Why ask for help if you don’t read the replies, especially when you lack understanding of basic vehicle assembly.
He's unfortunately notorious for this, across >30 usernames spanning at least 12 years.

I've given up trying. Despite my best efforts at clear and concise communication it always ends up being a wholly wasted effort.
 
Misinformation and The Usual Suspects particularly Post #33 aside and the cheerleaders Post #34 and its 🤣reaction aside, pay it no mind.. for @Audiman Post #32, the last two weeks have been a crazy-ish mess that seems to now be settling down. I open up this thread after legit not having a chance to look at it, again, due to CRAZY workload and time, going to sleep 6p.m. due to energy expended at work etc.. ok so I revisit the thread, give the update about the zip tie, seemed to be a serious advice or tip from @mk378 though now I wonder the motivations of said advice.. and I see Post #21 from @AZjeff

The reservoir is attached with a 10mm bolt and one of those clip-on nuts at the front and a clip-on bolt and 10mm nut at the back. You can see one at 5:22 and the other at 6:01 in the video. You're welcome. ;)

OK cool. Seems pretty clear it attaches with speed nuts and a specific bolt. Going to be a first, but I'm down to attach it how it is supposed to be, still not sure how it went missing in the first place but here we are.

I bought these just today. After work. Didn't just do in and crash out to sleep. One step closer. I think we can all agree, the car has to be present for the hood to be up and said fastener attached and installed.

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Again, @Audiman To your point, I dont fault you for your observation. Everything went down in reverse order.. post an update about the zip tie (@mk378 ummm, Thank you? You DO actually give great helpful advice so I accept it) - and see a posted post that I missed with a video apparently showing the nut in question in detail. It doesnt seem to be the hardest thing.

Will likely pull car in garage tomorrow a.m. and see what wants to fit where, this is Home Depot screws and washer and nut, but let's get this on there. I'm not doing it in my final hour before work resting at night. Tomorrow morning to see what wants to fit where and how should be fine.

This thread is about the topic posted. So, about the second peeve. Fuse will get from Amazon, now that we know it is under dash not under hood. Not a fan of going into a brick and mortar store where I may have to brush off cashier asking for my phone number (Advance Auto, that's you. I think AutoZone wont even let you buy it without putting it in first. Done.)
 
OK cool. Seems pretty clear it attaches with speed nuts and a specific bolt. Going to be a first, but I'm down to attach it how it is supposed to be, still not sure how it went missing in the first place but here we are.

I bought these just today. After work. Didn't just do in and crash out to sleep. One step closer. I think we can all agree, the car has to be present for the hood to be up and said fastener attached and installed.

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Again, @Audiman To your point, I dont fault you for your observation. Everything went down in reverse order.. post an update about the zip tie (@mk378 ummm, Thank you? You DO actually give great helpful advice so I accept it) - and see a posted post that I missed with a video apparently showing the nut in question in detail. It doesnt seem to be the hardest thing.

Will likely pull car in garage tomorrow a.m. and see what wants to fit where, this is Home Depot screws and washer and nut, but let's get this on there. I'm not doing it in my final hour before work resting at night. Tomorrow morning to see what wants to fit where and how should be fine.

This thread is about the topic posted. So, about the second peeve. Fuse will get from Amazon, now that we know it is under dash not under hood. Not a fan of going into a brick and mortar store where I may have to brush off cashier asking for my phone number (Advance Auto, that's you. I think AutoZone wont even let you buy it without putting it in first. Done.)

Looks like you’re on a path. You’re not holding anything structural, it’s not going to see big forces, that should be fine if the bolt length is long enough.

If not, Home Depot has a great return policy so it’s all good. Something else is sure to fit.

What’s with fiber washers?

Zip ties are better than a bottle flopping around. Doing something right is a good long term solution, even if it isn’t OE parts. While it may not appeal to the AR nature of many BITOG folks, the HD parts are 100% better than nothing, much better than a ziptie, and close enough to OEM, assuming they fit.
 
What's wrong with the zip ties? I'm rocking zip ties on quite a few things on my vehicles. Trans cooler, ps cooler, coolant bottle. I even have ratchet straps holding down the trans in my truck!
 
What's wrong with the zip ties? I'm rocking zip ties on quite a few things on my vehicles. Trans cooler, ps cooler, coolant bottle. I even have ratchet straps holding down the trans in my truck!
Well, that's better than nothing, but why not with proper screws anand fasteners?

Edit for "Thats inside out:" It doesn't want to slide over the metal without the whole tank out anyway. Time has come for the car to make another journey so I will have to re-assess when to take tank out to get that on there.

Looks like this will get resolved next year..

(before update) So. Progress. The tank legitimately seems to be in my way. I know the screw threads through.

The issue is getting it down on there.

Car is in use in an hour and a half so I can't remove tank. Making an effort to get it on. Another 10 minutes or so (I separated the U part, it doesnt want to slide on yet) and I'm asking myself if a trip to the Ford dealer is warranted.

Here is where we are. Working quickly here. Might not get it today.

Tank is as up and out of the way as it can be while attached...

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Fuse will get from Amazon
Do not buy the big box of off brand fuses from Amazon. They are no good.

It looks like you'll need to buy the bottle mounting nuts from the dealer, as the standard "U" pattern is too wide to fit into the square hole. The hardware for the back of the bottle is definitely Ford special.
 
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