Fixing A/C

[Colt45ws]

My car has a pretty good size crack in the condenser, so I have been gathering supplies to replace it.
Im about done with that stage. Next is to acquire the parts needed.
Im also definitely getting a Accumulator. Its not technically needed with a condenser change out, however it is of a fail design in a fail spot and likes to rust out. They are not expensive either, so I will just throw one in.
My question is, should I replace the compressor too? The reason I ask is because it rattles sometimes. I have not yet figured out what causes it or why it only does it sometimes. I went over the clutch last year to make sure it was tight and in good condition. I did find the gap just a smidge wide, so I pulled the face off and sanded down the spacer a bit to tighten it up.
It still does it. Only when the clutch is pulled in, which is what worries me about it. I would hate to have to take it back apart to put a compressor in it. I think I am going to do it, but I wanted some opinions and maybe someone has something that I might've overlooked.

 

[JHZR2]

accumulator? you mean receiver dryer?

You absolutely should replace it if the system was open.

And pull sufficient vacuum.

I dont see a reason to change the comp, but if you want to be safe,now is the time.

 

[Colt45ws]

Yes, Reciever/Dryer. Ive always called it an Accumulator as that is what I have always seen it called.
Ford says only replace if the compressor was replaced. Im with you, though.

I have a SPX Robinair vacuum pump and a Supco digital vacuum gauge on teh way. Ill get a good vacuum on it.

You dont think the rattling is a problem?

 

[JHZR2]

I just dont know if the rattle is due to a bad idler, tensioner, or something else.

It is the right time to do it if you have concerns... So Id say yes.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Yes, Reciever/Dryer. Ive always called it an Accumulator as that is what I have always seen it called.
Ford says only replace if the compressor was replaced. Im with you, though.

I have a SPX Robinair vacuum pump and a Supco digital vacuum gauge on teh way. Ill get a good vacuum on it.

You dont think the rattling is a problem?


Technically there is a slight difference between an accumulator and a receiver/drier.

Accumulators are on the low-pressure side of the system (GM typically did this for decades), Receiver/Driers are on the high-pressure side of the system right after the condensor. Ford and Chrysler typically used this style for decades. They both serve basically the same function- provide a place where the refrigerant can be passed over a dessicant to remove moisture. Accumulators also provide a place for excess liquid coming out of the evaporator to boil before heading to the compressor, but Receiver/Driers allow for storage of more liquid refrigerant so that the system will work much longer if there's a slow leak, and can go the whole life of the vehicle if its just normal shaft seal seepage. But because of that very capability, receiver/driers are out of favor in modern systems because the EPA is pushing automakers to reduce the total charge of refrigerant that the car carries.

As for the rattling- swash-plate compressors tend to do that. It CAN be a sign of a problem, but most of the time it isn't and will go away after the system runs for 30-40 seconds and the head pressure builds up and puts a positive load on the compressor.

 

[Colt45ws]

Then it is an accumulator. Its after the evaporator, before the compressor.

Im not certain if it is a swash plate or scroll. I was just looking at options on rockauto and most say "scroll option" though one does say piston replacement for #(scroll compressor). A couple say nothing.

For example, I just topped it up so the defrost would work again. It was about 35F outside, so as you can imagine, it wasnt building any head pressure. It was completely silent.
Last time I heard it was this summer when I was getting ready to go on a trip. I pulled it out of the garage and left it idle while my brother grabbed a few things. I waited beside it while it sat there and rattled the whole time which was a good 2 or 3 minutes.
I dont know how often really it occurs, because there is too much noise going on to do so. Everytime Ive heard it was while Ive been outside of it while its running which isnt all that often, surprisingly.

 

[bdcardinal]

FWIW Ford uses the term Accumulator only on the parts end. Just like there are no flexplates in Ford parts language, just A/T and M/T flywheels.

 

[punisher]

I will try to save you some problems. I assume the system is empty of refrigerant.

Some of those accumulators (and yes, accumulators are on the low side, receiver dryers are on the high side) have a tendency to corrode to the upper threaded fitting on the evap core. Before you order all your parts and start on the job, make sure you can loosen that upper nut on the evap outlet. Not 100% sure on a 2004, as I retired from FoMoCo in 2001, but that dam..d connection made me replace more evap cores than I wanted to, not that they are hard to swap.

 

[Colt45ws]

They moved the accumulator down onto the frame rail infront of the compressor on 03+. So its attached with hoses. They wrapped it in foam and encased it in plastic. This, combined with its low position causes it to get wet, and also salt on it. It rusts out.

 

[HM12460]

You sure the rattling isn't coming from the a/c compressor clutch?

 

[Colt45ws]

I checked that out. Its solid. It only occurs when its clutched on.

 

[crazy8]

The only thing I can add is to inspect the orifice tube before you start changing parts, if it's full of junk then you will probably need a compressor also.

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
They moved the accumulator down onto the frame rail infront of the compressor on 03+. So its attached with hoses. They wrapped it in foam and encased it in plastic. This, combined with its low position causes it to get wet, and also salt on it. It rusts out.

That is why most aftermarket ones for Fords are made of aluminum.

 

[wtd]

How many miles on the compressor? If it was mine, I would replace the compressor, especially since it is rattling and you cannot exactly pinpoint where the noise is coming from.

If the compressor ends up locking up, then you will end up buying another new condensor since the design of most new ones make them almost impossible to flush and any lines that have mufflers in them. Possibly a new evaporator and definetly a new accumulator. Do it right the first time so you don't end up doing it again. I also don't recommend buying any reman compressors if you can avoid it. Always try to buy new.

Wayne

 

[Colt45ws]

66k miles.

 

[wtd]

That is not that many miles but it doesn't mean that the compressor is not going bad anyway. Go to autoacforum.com This forum has a lot of info on auto AC systems and is where I learned most of what I know about these systems. I have successfully repaired approx. 11 vehicles in the last 6.5 years including the two 98 chevy trucks and the two 92 Cavaliers in my signature. I also buy most of my AC parts from the site that is affiliated with the site I gave above. Good prices and I have never had a problem with any of the parts.

Wayne

 

[Colt45ws]

'nother question. Does any body have any experience with the aftermarket brands? Im looking at a Spectra Premium condenser, compressor and a Four Seasons accumulator. Each piece is running 40-70% cheaper than the Motorcraft stuff.

 

[SteveSRT8]

IME with GM products the aftermarket is very sketchy on quality and we had fitment issues as well.

Be cautious is my advice.

 

[zzyzzx]

At 68K miles I would not replace the compressor. Mine was still working at around 210K miles when a refrigerant leak that I can't find took out the whole system. My 1995 Escort my even have the same or very similar compressor.

 

[Colt45ws]

I dont know. Im kinda iffy on the noise it makes sometimes.