I would recommend buying 2 loading manuals and study them. Then Buy a Dillon 550 set up and the goodies needed. Once the 550 is mastered which is simple it just takes time, you can produce 300 reloads in the time it takes to do 50 with a single stage. I had a single stage from 1976 until I bought my 550 in 1991 and wouldn't go back.Buy once, cry once
Part of the water neck broke off with it .Maybe fill the hole with jb weld and then thread in the brass nipple ?
That's a tricky repair, even for JB Weld, considering that a radiator is dealing with both heat and pressure and the integrity of the composite material has been compromised.
It's definitely worth a shot as your other alternative is to buy a new radiator. You will want to "rough up" the surface so the JB Weld has something on which to "grab." You can use a dremel tool to do this. Additionally, I would try to reinforce the neck with something like a piece of wire screen or even a couple of hose clamps, (otherwise, my fear would be it would simply blow off under pressure).
Taking all this into consideration, it might actually be easier to simply purchase a new or decent used radiator. I've done a lot of patching in my day, and sometimes what you learn is that it's actually cheaper and easier not to patch.
I don't see how putting a brass nipple in the filler neck is going to work.
The threads of the nipple are going to have to extend into the ID of the filler neck. This would prevent the lower sealing surface of the cap (the seal that's under spring tension) from passing beyond the nipple threads; you won't be able to install the cap. Even if you can work the cap passed the threads, the threads may interfere with the lower seal opening when under pressure.
Adhesive will work to re-attach the broken nipple provided it will withstand the temperature and will "stick" to the plastic. I've always wondered what those plastic tanks were made of. If it's some kind of PVC or ABS you can try ABS or PVC pipe adhesive sold at the hardware store.
You shouldn't have to worry about pressure as the pressure is on the radiator side of the lower cap seal. The overflow nipple is located between the lower and upper cap seals.
If he were to run a treaded brass nipple into the rad neck and then grind it smooth on the inside of the filler neck so that it is flush with the inside neck surface, that should allow the pressure cap to pass freely up and down. To add further support, I would "dope up" the outside with a "mound" of JB Weld.
Before you take the plunge, check this out:
Depending on what kind of "plastic" your rad is made from, this might do the trick. They do list certain types of plastic it will not work on, but they do make another brand of "plastic weld."
I think I know what your talking about and that fitting has very little pressure on it. A lot of the newer cars have low pressure radiators. I think JB will work fine. Make sure you let it set for 24 hours before use and it will be fine.