First Time Hyundai Owner - Coolant Confusion

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Coolant gurus, I need your help! I just purchased a newer Elantra (in sig). This car is in pristine condition, and I intend to keep it that way. I don't know any history, but both of my cheap coolant testers (which have always been pretty accurate) said it is mixed VERY strong (like -60° strong). They both read correct on my SS which I know is perfectly 50/50. So I'm assuming there's very little water in it. The current coolant appears to be old school green coolant. Hyundai is extremely vague in the owners manual, but I get the impression anything is safe, including old school green Prestone, because their terminology is something along the lines of "ethylene glycol based coolant." I will probably take it to a real radiator shop to do a true (high pressure) flush to blast any junk out of the system.

But my question is what do I refill it with?

I've done some research and can't decide between Zerex Asian Blue (only 50/50), old school Prestone green, or my outlier Zerex G-05. I hate companies that label a coolant completely universal (Peak Global) and I tend to avoid those.

I think my front runner is Zerex Asian Blue (is there any difference from red?) simply because of the longer service life and it saying suited for Hyundai right on the bottle. Prestone green is a close second due to it being cheaper and full strength to mix properly. I have some Zerex G-05 that will go to waste due to selling my Marquis though, and I believe that's safe too.
***Ultimately, I want what is BEST for the car, not my wallet or other factors, within reason*** (that being said, what is Hyundai genuine coolant? I can't find a clear answer. Within reason means if Hyundai's is basic green and twice the price, I'll opt for the cheaper Prestone)

Am I overthinking this? Am I missing something? Please chime in. Be critical (about anything I've said). Any input is valuable. Thanks in advance!
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Prestone is not old school green IAT coolant. I don't use prestone and nor follow it's development, but it probably still contains 2EHA. Just as a precaution, I would nix any 2EHA coolants unless you can verify that Hyundai's are built for its use.

You're not overthinking this. In an extreme case, I know of at least 2 diesel engines ruined because they used automotive coolant. It is wise to be detailed oriented about this stuff.
 
I agree that Hyundai's owners manuals are pretty vague regarding coolant type (at least my 2008 Elantra's is). When I bought it in 2012 with 30K...I flushed and refilled it with PEAK traditional coolant (IAT) and have done so every 2 years since then and it has been fine. If I had GO-5 on hand I'd use it because it will mix better with IAT coolant if that's what's currently in the car. (if you don't flush it well enough)….The GO-5 should be good for at least 75K and/or 5 years....
 
You have the right thought process in that you know the current coolant is mixed too strong and should be replaced. But you're over-thinking the coolant choice. Taking it to a radiator shop is a good idea because the questions I have is "why is the coolant mixed so strong? Are there other problems or did someone accidently use full strength coolant and not mix it with water?"

Unless there are contaminates in the overflow tank, I don't think you need a high pressure flush on a 2 year old vehicle. Full replacement of the coolant? Yes. Explain the situation to the radiator shop and let them do their thing. It looks like you can use any "ethylene-glycol-based coolant". Let the shop use whatever coolant they typically use. They have experience and trust in certain products.

Good luck.
 
I have the opposite issue with my 2017 Elantra. Bought with 9 miles and was at low mark. Added distilled water a few time per owner manual instructions and now at -25 with my tester. I just bought a gallon of Penofrost A2 for future top off. This is as close as you are going to get to Hyundai OEM as far as I can see. LL Coolant with phosphates. Bought at Rock Auto for $25 shipped. Advance carries it at some stores.
Pentofrost A2
I called dealership and said it only needs regular green coolant, but my manual says first change of coolant is 120k which requires long life coolant. Dealership uses Original Zerex, but then you need to change 30k. Good for dealership, but I do not want to mix regular coolant with long life one or change every 30k until it is required by Hyundai.
 
Originally Posted by dogememe
The dealership puts conventional green in a 2017 car? That's plain stupid.


The minute the Service Advisor told me that I ended the conversation. They do have an extended warranty if you do 3,750 oil changes, with 30k antifreeze and transmission fluid changes at their dealerships. Long Life coolant would mean less revenue for the dealership.
 
A local jobber put prestone multi vehicle in my sonata without any ill affects.

The book recommends a 60k change of coolant, I did mine at 67k.

They used a proper flush machine.
 
I'm a fan of Pentofrost A2 in my Hyundai and Kia products. It is widely available - some auto parts stores stock it and most can get it in a day or two. It matches the OE P-HOAT formulation and color so it is good to go for a drain and fill without turning your coolant an ugly color that makes it look like it has been neglected (especially if you go in for warranty work). Also, I like that it is available full strength which lets you get the concentration right if you're doing a flush with distilled water. The price is a bit high compared to conventional IAT green and OAT all makes/all models dexclone, but it is not ridiculously expensive by any means.

That being said, the owener's manual is very non-specific and there are very few reports of cooling issues with Hyundai or Kia products. They don't even have any TSBs warning about coolant that I have heard of... and this is the company that has much of the Internet scared of running aftermarket filters via a widely misinterpreted TSB. So as long as you're doing a full flush to avoid any chemistry compatibility issues, I think you'd be fine with anything.
 
It's possible this 2 year old Elantra has the original coolant, mixed too strong at the factory.
I plan to D&F the Tucson with Zerex blue at the 5 year mark (~30K miles).
 
Sorry for seeming like I posted and bailed, been really busy lately. I did read every single response and really appreciate all the input. Before reading, I initially decided to opt for Zerex Asian blue which only comes in 50/50, and I decided is okay for my area if it mixes with a little extra flush water. I bought it on sale at O'Reilly for $14.99/gal x2. Then I saw it at my larger local Wal-Mart for $12.97/gal. Sold! But now it raises a question, the silver bottle (Wal-Mart) and black bottle (O'Reilly) are the same, right? Both are Zerex, both Asian blue, both list Hyundai, and both are 50/50. Just different retailer packaging? Old/new stock? The O'Reilly part number is 861398. I can't find anything at all about the Wal-Mart version. I bought something that doesn't seem to exist. After doing some research I think it's brand new. The Valvoline part number on the back is 883865, UPC: 0 74130 06592 5. Labeled as "Valvoline with Zerex technology 50/50 prediluted antifreeze/coolant, for Honda, Acura, Nissan, Hyundai, KIA, & others."

Originally Posted by E150GT
Get pentofrost made for Asian vehicles. You can buy it in full strength. I refuse to buy zerez Asian due to 50/50 only.

Originally Posted by jim302
I'm a fan of Pentofrost A2 in my Hyundai and Kia products. It is widely available - some auto parts stores stock it and most can get it in a day or two. It matches the OE P-HOAT formulation and color so it is good to go for a drain and fill without turning your coolant an ugly color that makes it look like it has been neglected (especially if you go in for warranty work). Also, I like that it is available full strength which lets you get the concentration right if you're doing a flush with distilled water. The price is a bit high compared to conventional IAT green and OAT all makes/all models dexclone, but it is not ridiculously expensive by any means.

That being said, the owner's manual is very non-specific and there are very few reports of cooling issues with Hyundai or Kia products. They don't even have any TSBs warning about coolant that I have heard of... and this is the company that has much of the Internet scared of running aftermarket filters via a widely misinterpreted TSB. So as long as you're doing a full flush to avoid any chemistry compatibility issues, I think you'd be fine with anything.


But then I read these replies. I always knew about Pentosin, but always chalked it up to essentially the Amsoil of coolant (imo great, but overpriced and unnecessary for my needs, no offense toward Amsoil) and never paid much attention. Now that I've done some research, I like the idea of Pentofrost A2. It's green like the current coolant, fully compatible, and full strength. I can get it for $24.99 at AAP and get anywhere from 25-40% off of that with promo codes. So the most I'd pay is $18.74/gal, if not less. That's cheaper than $25.94 for Asian blue ($12.97x2) and I can truly get a 50/50 mix. Sounds perfect, but after looking for hours online, I can't find any information on how long that coolant's recommended service interval is. I know the Zerex Asian blue is 5 years/150k, but no info for A2, not even from Pentosin's website. Regardless, I like A2 because even if it's a shorter interval, that's good because then if my water pump fails later on, I won't be mad that I have to dump a 150k mile coolant at say 60k into it's lifespan. Plus, this stood out to me:
Originally Posted by dtownfb
You have the right thought process in that you know the current coolant is mixed too strong and should be replaced. But you're over-thinking the coolant choice. Taking it to a radiator shop is a good idea because the questions I have is "why is the coolant mixed so strong? Are there other problems or did someone accidently use full strength coolant and not mix it with water?"

Unless there are contaminates in the overflow tank, I don't think you need a high pressure flush on a 2 year old vehicle. Full replacement of the coolant? Yes. Explain the situation to the radiator shop and let them do their thing. It looks like you can use any "ethylene-glycol-based coolant". Let the shop use whatever coolant they typically use. They have experience and trust in certain products.

Good luck.
I forget that I actually bought a car that isn't 7-10 years old already. Never done that before and that sort of maintenance stuff is automatic to me. Huge thanks for pointing that out
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. Seems obvious, but I forget the obvious sometimes. I guess a power flush isn't necessary. All the more reason to not use Asian blue.




Thanks everyone for all your help!
 
Bought 2 gallons here for $35 delivered. I offered $30 knowing it was too low but seller counteroffered $35 which I accepted. Been using A2 for 2 Hyundais, it's a great product:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pentosin-A2-Pentofrost-Green-Antifreeze-Concentrate-8115205-2-Gallons/253286877373?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
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I did a lot of research for our 2014 Tuscon ...
OM specifies ethylene glycol based coolant which is what Prestone is.
At that time I had 3 gal of Prestone cor-guard which says on it for all cars, makes, models, any color antifreeze, will not void warranty , etc.
I even called the dealership twice and they asked one of the mechanics who said prestone is ok.
I have mixing it in with oem coolant since you can't get everything out when you drain and so far no issues. Our older Tuscon and Tacoma uses the same Prestone cor-guard.
 
They always say ethylene glycol based. It's virtually impossible to go to any retail outlet or dealer and buy a coolant that isn't ethylene glycol based. That doesn't tell you anything about the corrosion inhibitor package, though. Dexcool is ethylene glycol based, as is Prestone all makes, original green, G-05, all the Audi and other German proprietary coolant, Zerex Asian, Nissan OEM, Toyota OEM, Rotella ELC, and so forth, everything basically except so called waterless coolants.
 
Yes. I believe those are generally marketed as waterless coolants, particularly these days; Evans comes to mind. I've never actually seen a propylene glycol coolant on the shelves, which was what I meant by having a great difficulty in buying anything except ethylene glycol. Accidentally using anything but ethylene glycol would take some strange luck.
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Okay, brand new findings, brand new questions. I found a new coolant sold by Napa. Peak OET green.

Napa part #PEA PAG0B3

This appears to be similar to Pentosin A2. Since I still have no idea how long Pentosin A2's service life is, the advertised 5year/150K on the Peak bottle is very tempting considering I'd only pay $1.25+tax more for the Peak after discounts (AAP A2: $24.99-25%=$18.74, NAPA Peak: $24.99-20%=$19.99).

I wouldn't dare leave either one in for 150K even if both said it on the bottle, but if the A2 turns out to be a 30k coolant and the Peak is a 150k coolant, the choice seems obvious to me. Or if they're both good for 150k, then A2 seems to be the winner. But it seems nobody truly knows about A2. So in your opinion, which is the better coolant, Peak OET Asian Green or Pentosin A2? And why?
 
I don't know about other antifreeze but I have cars over 13 and 20 years old (original owner) ... All using Prestone and zero cooling or radiator issues! Are there other antifreeze better than prestone? idk, I never researched that since I've used prestone in all my cars and none have had any issues. Why change if it's working!

Costco used to sell 2 gal of prestone cor-guard plus a gal of windshield washer ... I bought 2 or 3 boxes and had about 6 gal of antifreeze at one point. That's why for our 2014 Tuscon, I didn't want to buy any more antifreeze and researched to see if it works for that car and it does based on my research!
 
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