First filter change with 15w40 Royal Purple

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Monterey Park, CA
Nearing 5000 miles and my oil is starting to have dark carbon particles showing up on my white paper towel as I check the oil. Oil is also now medium brown. So I decided to change the filter, and add a quart of make up oil. I know Bob is doing those remote filter tests, and I'm doing my own with my engine oil pressure gage. I noticed that the start up pressure is now a little lower with the new filter. I have to say my filter was finally getting restricted with crude. Guess I will keep eyeballing the oil everytime I check the oil to see when another filter change will be in order. It will interesting to note any cleaning of my oil with the new filter before it starts getting darker again.

Leo
 
quote:

Originally posted by Al:
What kind of vehicle??

1998 Camaro not a stock motor.
427 ci C5R blocked motor. 12000 mi on new motor.
Stock Delco PF44 oil filter.
K&N air filter with Whisper lid.
My daily driver, also used for drag racing, road racing.
 
I really think I would be running a redline synthetic or Mobil1 in that engine... I wouldn't touch royal purple.

You might want to change it and try something else, like Schaeffers 15W40?
grin.gif


Nice sounding engine btw, wish I had one in my Camaro
cheers.gif
 
leo, i wouldn't be trying for long drain intervals with that engine. the piston alloy makes for big cold clearances, and the ring gaps are significantly larger than regular production too.

then, with how the efi gets confused with the camming, they usually run very rich until the O2 sensors kick in.

between blowby, fuel contamination, and how much money you have in the engine to begin with, long drain intervals seem a silly way to try and save money. no?

why RP, anyhow? did your builder recommend that?

-michael
 
quote:

Originally posted by Dominic:
I really think I would be running a redline synthetic or Mobil1 in that engine... I wouldn't touch royal purple.

You might want to change it and try something else, like Schaeffers 15W40?
grin.gif


Nice sounding engine btw, wish I had one in my Camaro
cheers.gif


Don't confuse this wt with the one Patman tested. 15w40 has enough additives for long drain intervals.
See:
Test was done by Oil Analyzers
Iron 0ppm
Chromium 0ppm
Lead 0ppm
Copper 0ppm
Tin 0ppm
Aluminum 0ppm
Nickel 0ppm
Silver 0ppm
Silicon 1ppm
Boron 0ppm
Sodium 0ppm
Magnesium 0ppm
Calcium 3034ppm
Barium 0ppm
Phosphorous 1007ppm
Zinc 1298ppm
Molybdenum 156ppm
Titanium 0ppm
Vavadium 0ppm
Potassium 0ppm
VIS@100C 14.75cSt
TBN 10.31

Just like Schaeffers 15W40!
 
pedaltothemetal, what's your planned drain interval with this oil? I wouldn't go over 6,000 miles ... certainly not 7,000 miles without testing a sample first. $20-$30 is cheap insurance for that big block.
dunno.gif


--- Bror Jace
 
quote:

Originally posted by Michael SR:
leo, i wouldn't be trying for long drain intervals with that engine. the piston alloy makes for big cold clearances, and the ring gaps are significantly larger than regular production too.

then, with how the efi gets confused with the camming, they usually run very rich until the O2 sensors kick in.

between blowby, fuel contamination, and how much money you have in the engine to begin with, long drain intervals seem a silly way to try and save money. no?

why RP, anyhow? did your builder recommend that?

-michael


This engine passed California Smog last year, so it runs just like a stocker. In fact it burns less oil than my stock motor. Don't worry, I will never keep oil in this motor that will harm the motor. I'm not trying to save money. Just keeping a synthetic oil in there as long as it is good, and 15w40 Royal Purple is good for at least 10000 miles drain intervals with factory filter change intervals.
On cold starts it doesn't run any richer than a stock motor. All has to do with good engine tuning with a wideband O2 sensor on a dyno.
My builder recommeded straight 30wt dino or 20w50 dino. I figure 15w40 Royal Purple is at least as heavy as 20w50 dino. Had it to 68000 rpms on the 1 miles straights during NASA HPDE four 20 min sessions using this synthetic.
In the future I want to try Mobile 1 0w40, and maybe Redline 10w40, but feel it's overpriced.

Leo
 
quote:

Originally posted by pedaltothemetal:
My builder recommeded straight 30wt dino or 20w50 dino. I figure 15w40 Royal Purple is at least as heavy as 20w50 dino. Had it to 68000 rpms on the 1 miles straights during NASA HPDE four 20 min sessions using this synthetic.

68 THOUSAND RPM???
shocked.gif
Man, your engine builder should get some kind of award or something.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Bror Jace:
pedaltothemetal, what's your planned drain interval with this oil? I wouldn't go over 6,000 miles ... certainly not 7,000 miles without testing a sample first. $20-$30 is cheap insurance for that big block.
dunno.gif


--- Bror Jace


Thanks!
I always check the color at every fillup. My engine never runs hotter than 180 degs F in stop and go traffic on 100 deg days. Has modified fan settings and 160 deg thermostat. 6qt oil capacity, and add at a 1/2 qt every 1000 miles. Always keeping it topped up.
I think of it like cat litter. Always getting depleted and new litter continuously added to keep it fresh. hehe

Leo
 
quote:

Originally posted by G-Man II:

quote:

Originally posted by pedaltothemetal:
My builder recommeded straight 30wt dino or 20w50 dino. I figure 15w40 Royal Purple is at least as heavy as 20w50 dino. Had it to 68000 rpms on the 1 miles straights during NASA HPDE four 20 min sessions using this synthetic.

68 THOUSAND RPM???
shocked.gif
Man, your engine builder should get some kind of award or something.


No it's not a turbine!
OK 6800 rpms. Is that better!

Leo
 
quote:

On cold starts it doesn't run any richer than a stock motor. All has to do with good engine tuning with a wideband O2 sensor on a dyno.

how would you know? by the time the wideband is warm, so are the vehicle's sensors.

you commented you thought the oil was getting dirty enough to partially clog the filter. where do you think that's coming from? blowby

i mean, you're talking about "carbon particles" you can see with your eye. that in itself is telling you something!

i used to tune cars for a living, and i worked at MTI, so i'm not just regurgitating. on the other hand, i've never really seen an oil-related failure that couldn't be ultimately traced to some other problem, so long drains might not matter much.

then there's the sleeving issues. i'm not 100% convinced everyone has figured out how to consistently seal the sleeves on the big-bore LS blocks. have you had the oil analyzed to see if there's any coolant leaking past the sleeves?

i just hope you're doing it for the right reasons, and not because you have an overly optimistic view of the engine/tune.

-michael
 
quote:

Originally posted by pedaltothemetal:
15w40 Royal Purple is good for at least 10000 miles drain intervals with factory filter change intervals.

No way...Where did you get that information. I'll bet that no one on this board has seen or heard of 10 K on RP. Results at 5K on RP haven't been so hot as I recall.
frown.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Michael SR:

quote:

On cold starts it doesn't run any richer than a stock motor. All has to do with good engine tuning with a wideband O2 sensor on a dyno.

how would you know? by the time the wideband is warm, so are the vehicle's sensors.

you commented you thought the oil was getting dirty enough to partially clog the filter. where do you think that's coming from? blowby

i mean, you're talking about "carbon particles" you can see with your eye. that in itself is telling you something!

i used to tune cars for a living, and i worked at MTI, so i'm not just regurgitating. on the other hand, i've never really seen an oil-related failure that couldn't be ultimately traced to some other problem, so long drains might not matter much.

then there's the sleeving issues. i'm not 100% convinced everyone has figured out how to consistently seal the sleeves on the big-bore LS blocks. have you had the oil analyzed to see if there's any coolant leaking past the sleeves?

i just hope you're doing it for the right reasons, and not because you have an overly optimistic view of the engine/tune.

-michael


I respect your comments! And yes I have taken every precaution. When you own an engine like this, you have to constantly monitor what is going on day to day!
First of all it is not running any richer at the cold start than stock. You can smell overly rich mixture right off the bat. The gas smell during start up is just like stock. Just a little rich starting a cold engine just like stock. My engine has been reprogramed with A/F ratios to run just like a stock motor using 42lb injectors. That includes the cold starts.
My block is not resleeved. It's the C5R block chevy sells as original parts. There are no issues with coolant leaking past the sleeves. Actually that's why I went with the C5R block because of these issues I followed from the early MTI superstrokers.
If the oil gets worse looking I will definely change the oil. I check it every 150 miles or at every fill up. Actually my dino 15w40 Delo looked much worse at 3000 miles than my Royal Purple at 5000 miles.
My old filter was not clogged up like clogged drain. It just needed to be changed to let the oil flow better and not let it go into bypass due to an dirty filter.

Leo
 
quote:

Originally posted by Al:

quote:

Originally posted by pedaltothemetal:
15w40 Royal Purple is good for at least 10000 miles drain intervals with factory filter change intervals.

No way...Where did you get that information. I'll bet that no one on this board has seen or heard of 10 K on RP. Results at 5K on RP haven't been so hot as I recall.
frown.gif


Because no one here is interested in Royal Purple. Actually the 15w40 is used by long haul truckers. This actual weight is sold as "Long Rider" at truck stops. "Long Rider" is a trademark of Royal Purple Transportation Marketing, Inc. Do a search an you can find that site.

LONG RIDER/ROYAL PURPLE ULTRATECH SYNTHETIC OIL -
PROPERTIES:

SAE GRADE - 15w-40
Product Code - 04MV6
Density - 0.897
Color - Purple
Flash Point (Centigrade) - 224
Fire Point (Centigrade) - 241
Pour Point (Centigrade) - -40
Viscosity:
cP @ -20 Centigrade - 12200
cP @ -15 Centigrade - 3500
cST @ 40 Centigrade - 109.8
cST @ 100 Centigrade - 14.65
HTHS - 4.2
High Temp Foam Test - PASS
Total Base Number - 10.4
ASH, Sulfate Wt. % - 1.1


Leo
 
Checked my oil after driving 150 miles with the new stock AC PF44 filter. Oil is now a few shades lighter (light brown) and the black residue has been cleaned up. So a new filter definitely cleans up dirty oil. From now on I will change my filter as recommended by my car maintenance schedule if I don't do UOA during extended drains. This is what Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple recommends in their literature. I guess they already figured out filter changes are prudent. That's my conclusion as well.

Leo
 
I checked my dipstick today, and my oil is clean again! All of you that think an oil filter is useless are wrong. Oil filters clean up the black that is suspended in oil. When your oil gets dark is when the filter is no longer filtering effectively. Change the filter and all the black will be gone after a couple hundred miles.

Leo
 
quote:

Originally posted by Al:

quote:

Originally posted by pedaltothemetal:
15w40 Royal Purple is good for at least 10000 miles drain intervals with factory filter change intervals.

No way...Where did you get that information. I'll bet that no one on this board has seen or heard of 10 K on RP. Results at 5K on RP haven't been so hot as I recall.
frown.gif


I have used Royal Purple in excess of ten years at intervals ranging from 12000 average to now at 25,000 on my diesel trucks. I have in excess of 250,000 miles of personal experience with Royal Purple 15W40 with excellent results.
I also use the 10W30 and racing oils as well in gas burners.
Al, Michael Sr., and Dominic - hope that I can enlighten and correct some of the incorrect perceptions being perpetuated on this forum.

I hope I can be of help.

grin.gif
 
With all due respect, Royal Purple's diesel/fleet oils cannot be compared directly to that of it's 5w30/10w30 product line. Totally different animal (and different driving conditions between the respective uses of those oils too)
 
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