Berryman used to have crankcase flush directions on can. I still use it. Pour the whole can in right before changing oil. Basically let it idle for 10 minutes or so but don't drive it. Then change the oil. It will stink and look nasty.
Filthy oil, noisy lifters - cleaning procedure?
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This is how we do it at the dealership:
Change oil and use a cheap ATF instead of motor oil. Valvoline maxlife ATF works well for this. Use a cheap filter. Run the engine at 2500-3000 rpm for about 10 minutes. Change the oil and filter again using a good filter and a high detergent oil. Rotella T6 works well. Drive the car and keep it at 3000-4000 rpm for about 2 miles. If the hydraulic lash adjusters are still making noise after this, they need to be replaced.
Change oil and use a cheap ATF instead of motor oil. Valvoline maxlife ATF works well for this. Use a cheap filter. Run the engine at 2500-3000 rpm for about 10 minutes. Change the oil and filter again using a good filter and a high detergent oil. Rotella T6 works well. Drive the car and keep it at 3000-4000 rpm for about 2 miles. If the hydraulic lash adjusters are still making noise after this, they need to be replaced.
To NYSteve:
AutoRX can leave a stain on aluminum. I have seen it.
AutoRX can leave a stain on aluminum. I have seen it.
Originally Posted By: JaFlo
This is how we do it at the dealership:
Change oil and use a cheap ATF instead of motor oil. Valvoline maxlife ATF works well for this. Use a cheap filter. Run the engine at 2500-3000 rpm for about 10 minutes. Change the oil and filter again using a good filter and a high detergent oil. Rotella T6 works well. Drive the car and keep it at 3000-4000 rpm for about 2 miles. If the hydraulic lash adjusters are still making noise after this, they need to be replaced.
I didn't think ATF has the detergents to really clean the head, that it was more of "an old wife's tales". I'd be real leery about using ATF instead of motor oil. In my 1985 Golf I developed a tick, I was running Castrol GTX 10W-40 since new. I added MMO and after a short bit of time the tick never came back. It's simple, cheap and worth a try.
Whimsey
This is how we do it at the dealership:
Change oil and use a cheap ATF instead of motor oil. Valvoline maxlife ATF works well for this. Use a cheap filter. Run the engine at 2500-3000 rpm for about 10 minutes. Change the oil and filter again using a good filter and a high detergent oil. Rotella T6 works well. Drive the car and keep it at 3000-4000 rpm for about 2 miles. If the hydraulic lash adjusters are still making noise after this, they need to be replaced.
I didn't think ATF has the detergents to really clean the head, that it was more of "an old wife's tales". I'd be real leery about using ATF instead of motor oil. In my 1985 Golf I developed a tick, I was running Castrol GTX 10W-40 since new. I added MMO and after a short bit of time the tick never came back. It's simple, cheap and worth a try.
Whimsey
Originally Posted By: JaFlo
This is how we do it at the dealership:
Change oil and use a cheap ATF instead of motor oil. Valvoline maxlife ATF works well for this. Use a cheap filter. Run the engine at 2500-3000 rpm for about 10 minutes. Change the oil and filter again using a good filter and a high detergent oil. Rotella T6 works well. Drive the car and keep it at 3000-4000 rpm for about 2 miles. If the hydraulic lash adjusters are still making noise after this, they need to be replaced.
Do you get permission from the car's owner before doing this?
This is how we do it at the dealership:
Change oil and use a cheap ATF instead of motor oil. Valvoline maxlife ATF works well for this. Use a cheap filter. Run the engine at 2500-3000 rpm for about 10 minutes. Change the oil and filter again using a good filter and a high detergent oil. Rotella T6 works well. Drive the car and keep it at 3000-4000 rpm for about 2 miles. If the hydraulic lash adjusters are still making noise after this, they need to be replaced.
Do you get permission from the car's owner before doing this?
The ATF does have detergents, and it cleans sludge good. ATF is generally very "thin" and flows well, which is what you want to work its way into the hydraulic lash adjusters (lifters). You could also substitute a thin, cheap motor oil. Since the engine is being run for a few minutes under essentially a "no load" condition, there is no need to worry about engine damage.
Originally Posted By: fredfactory
Do you get permission from the car's owner before doing this?
Everything the owner pays for requires permission. We usually warn them that damage may have already occurred due to lack of maintenance, and sometimes freeing the sludge chunks can cause the oil pickup tube to clog and lead to engine failure down the road.
Do you get permission from the car's owner before doing this?
Everything the owner pays for requires permission. We usually warn them that damage may have already occurred due to lack of maintenance, and sometimes freeing the sludge chunks can cause the oil pickup tube to clog and lead to engine failure down the road.
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I would love to know what detergents ATF, a product that does not, in normal use, have to deal with combustion byproducts, have in it that makes it especially effective against things like sludge and varnish, both of which are the result of oxidation and combustion byproducts
It really doesn't have a whole lot of detergent (less than motor oil afaik). The real point of it, in this situation, is to penatrate the small oil passages in the lash adjusters and carry away the dirt or sludge. It's also cheap, and cheap is good since it's getting drained and discarded after a few minutes. Like I said before, cheap dino oil would work as well ( something like a 0w20 perhaps).
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Originally Posted By: JaFlo
It really doesn't have a whole lot of detergent (less than motor oil afaik).
That was my point
Originally Posted By: JaFlo
The real point of it, in this situation, is to penatrate the small oil passages in the lash adjusters and carry away the dirt or sludge. It's also cheap, and cheap is good since it's getting drained and discarded after a few minutes. Like I said before, cheap dino oil would work as well ( something like a 0w20 perhaps).
Yes, you'd probably be better served using an engine oil... designed to be used in an engine, as your flush.
You wouldn't find a 0w-20 dino. However, a cheap 5w-20 would work.
It really doesn't have a whole lot of detergent (less than motor oil afaik).
That was my point
Originally Posted By: JaFlo
The real point of it, in this situation, is to penatrate the small oil passages in the lash adjusters and carry away the dirt or sludge. It's also cheap, and cheap is good since it's getting drained and discarded after a few minutes. Like I said before, cheap dino oil would work as well ( something like a 0w20 perhaps).
Yes, you'd probably be better served using an engine oil... designed to be used in an engine, as your flush.
You wouldn't find a 0w-20 dino. However, a cheap 5w-20 would work.
I've recently done the B12 flush, didn't quiet my lifters but I believe it did some cleaning oil came out filthy. Have used MMO too, some lifters just won't shut up!
Either one will work. You just need something thin enough to get into the lash adjusters. The ATF has worked well on several engines, so I have no doubts about it. I've seen some dealers use solvents, but I don't like that as you won't get all of the solvent out before the final oil change. You also don't want the dirt and sludge to break up to rapidly and clog the pickup screen.
Wow what a great conversation!
The car is still sitting as I haven't had time to get a tag. I've driven about 10 miles since the MMO and Rotella6 - no change yet but wouldn't expect there to be.
I did a much more comprehensive compression test and found I'm about 195 across the board which is near new for this motor. So, my crankcase pressure issue still baffles me - high blow out of the oil cap hole at idle, but it goes away at higher rpms. About to just shrug my shoulders at that one and let it be, see what happens after 500 miles with the Rotella/MMO.
Gonna try to rig up my compression tester so I can get a reading of exactly what the crankcase pressure is - that way I can check it again later and definitively see if there's improvement.
The car is still sitting as I haven't had time to get a tag. I've driven about 10 miles since the MMO and Rotella6 - no change yet but wouldn't expect there to be.
I did a much more comprehensive compression test and found I'm about 195 across the board which is near new for this motor. So, my crankcase pressure issue still baffles me - high blow out of the oil cap hole at idle, but it goes away at higher rpms. About to just shrug my shoulders at that one and let it be, see what happens after 500 miles with the Rotella/MMO.
Gonna try to rig up my compression tester so I can get a reading of exactly what the crankcase pressure is - that way I can check it again later and definitively see if there's improvement.
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