Yes, I've spilled oil on the exhaust. Punching a hole in the filter helps. However, these filters have anti-drainback valves, so not all of the oil drains out of the block above the filter. It's still less messy than just taking the filter off.
Filter for Subaru
- Thread starter 3oilmat1
- Start date
- Status
I get a little foil and place it around the header/cat and then un screw it slowly.
Once it starts to drip I take the wrench off and turn it another 1/4 turn and leave it alone. 5 mins later repeat and that gets 90% of the oil off it cleanly. Then when I take it off a slight amount gets on the foil.
Once it starts to drip I take the wrench off and turn it another 1/4 turn and leave it alone. 5 mins later repeat and that gets 90% of the oil off it cleanly. Then when I take it off a slight amount gets on the foil.
I use a disposable cup (plastic or foam). Loosen the filter enough so it will turn by friction of the cup. Hold the cup for a few seconds to get most of the drain and then spin off the filter into the cup. Just a few drops from the mount to clean up then.
In the subaru I think the plastic or foam will melt with all the heat.
If you waited 30 mins then maybe.
But its REAL HOT.
Not the best design but you have to have the smog [censored] on the cars.
If you waited 30 mins then maybe.
But its REAL HOT.
Not the best design but you have to have the smog [censored] on the cars.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Styrofoam can handle boiling water ..but I'm pretty sure it will degrade quickly with oil.
Thanks all for the answers. I am going to give that cup removal tool a try. Checked under the car last night and there was no leaking so I am happy about that. But, I am still smelling a slight oil burning. It seemed less today as I rewiped the exhaust down with a towel.
Originally Posted By: Dominic
On the rare occasion I spill oil on the exhaust I use a little bit of brake cleaner to remove it before starting.
Secondly I never change my oil HOT, only warm, after the headers are cool enough to touch. It works well
Same here. I just let it warm up a little, or cool down when I get back home so I won't worry about burning my hands. It drains pretty quickly.
On the rare occasion I spill oil on the exhaust I use a little bit of brake cleaner to remove it before starting.
Secondly I never change my oil HOT, only warm, after the headers are cool enough to touch. It works well
Same here. I just let it warm up a little, or cool down when I get back home so I won't worry about burning my hands. It drains pretty quickly.
I found this on another forum...
Here's a reply from SOA about their Honeywell oil filters:
Per your request, I have same information which differentiates the new Subaru/Honeywell Oil Filter (made in Canada) p/n: 15208AA12A from various aftermarket competitors:
1) The new Oil Filter (made in Canada) p/n: 15208AA12A is the OEM line installed filter for all 2.5L and 2.5L turbo engines built at Subaru Indiana Automotive. In order to pass Subaru's rigorous test requirements, the new filter's filtration performance and test specifications were designed so that they far exceeded any aftermarket "one-size-fits-all" filter.
2) The filter's pleated media has variable density paper. The variable density improves the filter's ability to trap contaminants. The variable density paper is more expensive than common aftermarket filter paper.
3) The filter's Relief Valve feature allows oil to flow to the engine even if the filter is clogged. The value's torque setting was tuned by Subaru and Honeywell specifically for Subaru engines.
4) The filter's Anti-Drainback Valve is made of silicone. The silicone material is used for optimum performance and sealing to prevent oil from draining out of filter when engine is shut off. In general, aftermarket filters use lesser materials.
5) The filter's external gasket is a molded P-Ring seal design. The P-Ring design provides superior sealing for solid contact between the filter and engine. Many aftermarket filters use a common lathe cut(non-molded/less expensive) gasket for sealing.
I hope this abbreviated explanation clearly shows that the new Subaru Oil Filter is far superior in overall design and materials to lesser aftermarket products.
Here's a reply from SOA about their Honeywell oil filters:
Per your request, I have same information which differentiates the new Subaru/Honeywell Oil Filter (made in Canada) p/n: 15208AA12A from various aftermarket competitors:
1) The new Oil Filter (made in Canada) p/n: 15208AA12A is the OEM line installed filter for all 2.5L and 2.5L turbo engines built at Subaru Indiana Automotive. In order to pass Subaru's rigorous test requirements, the new filter's filtration performance and test specifications were designed so that they far exceeded any aftermarket "one-size-fits-all" filter.
2) The filter's pleated media has variable density paper. The variable density improves the filter's ability to trap contaminants. The variable density paper is more expensive than common aftermarket filter paper.
3) The filter's Relief Valve feature allows oil to flow to the engine even if the filter is clogged. The value's torque setting was tuned by Subaru and Honeywell specifically for Subaru engines.
4) The filter's Anti-Drainback Valve is made of silicone. The silicone material is used for optimum performance and sealing to prevent oil from draining out of filter when engine is shut off. In general, aftermarket filters use lesser materials.
5) The filter's external gasket is a molded P-Ring seal design. The P-Ring design provides superior sealing for solid contact between the filter and engine. Many aftermarket filters use a common lathe cut(non-molded/less expensive) gasket for sealing.
I hope this abbreviated explanation clearly shows that the new Subaru Oil Filter is far superior in overall design and materials to lesser aftermarket products.
Originally Posted By: Soobs
I found this on another forum...
Here's a reply from SOA about their Honeywell oil filters:
Per your request, I have same information which differentiates the new Subaru/Honeywell Oil Filter (made in Canada) p/n: 15208AA12A from various aftermarket competitors:
3) The filter's Relief Valve feature allows oil to flow to the engine even if the filter is clogged. The value's torque setting was tuned by Subaru and Honeywell specifically for Subaru engines.
#3 really says nothing about the filer's bypass ('relief') valve. Obviously, the purpose of every filter bypass valve is to "allow oil to flow to the engine even if the filter is clogged".
"The value's torque setting ..." ???
I'm wondering if they are tying to say the "bypass valve's (not value's) setting" is tuned by Subaru. If so, then obviously it was "tuned" to be 23 psi on the OEM filter for a reason. There is no "torque" involved with a filter's bypass valve.
I found this on another forum...
Here's a reply from SOA about their Honeywell oil filters:
Per your request, I have same information which differentiates the new Subaru/Honeywell Oil Filter (made in Canada) p/n: 15208AA12A from various aftermarket competitors:
3) The filter's Relief Valve feature allows oil to flow to the engine even if the filter is clogged. The value's torque setting was tuned by Subaru and Honeywell specifically for Subaru engines.
#3 really says nothing about the filer's bypass ('relief') valve. Obviously, the purpose of every filter bypass valve is to "allow oil to flow to the engine even if the filter is clogged".
"The value's torque setting ..." ???
I'm wondering if they are tying to say the "bypass valve's (not value's) setting" is tuned by Subaru. If so, then obviously it was "tuned" to be 23 psi on the OEM filter for a reason. There is no "torque" involved with a filter's bypass valve.
I just purchased an oil filter at the dealer the other day.
It was the black filter...the Tokyo Roki. It may be because I have the H6 engine, though.
I didn't know if all their filters were being made by Honeywell or just the 4 cyl. versions.
It was the black filter...the Tokyo Roki. It may be because I have the H6 engine, though.
I didn't know if all their filters were being made by Honeywell or just the 4 cyl. versions.
Originally Posted By: Soobs
4) The filter's Anti-Drainback Valve is made of silicone....
A silicone adbv is so important on an 'open-end-up' filter because....???
4) The filter's Anti-Drainback Valve is made of silicone....
A silicone adbv is so important on an 'open-end-up' filter because....???
If you waited till the headers are cool you could just get a plastic grocery bag and place it around it and then unscrew it with the bag. I do this on my cars all the time and it makes no mess. Just let the filter drop into the bag.
Originally Posted By: n8wvi
Originally Posted By: Soobs
4) The filter's Anti-Drainback Valve is made of silicone....
A silicone adbv is so important on an 'open-end-up' filter because....???
An ADBV works in all filter orientations. The filtered oil that has been pushed up inside of the engine will be pulled downward by gravity, and it will attempt to flow backwards through the filter. When it does this, if there is an ADBV, the pressure of the oil going backwards will hold it closed, not allowing the oil to drain back into the sump.
Originally Posted By: Soobs
4) The filter's Anti-Drainback Valve is made of silicone....
A silicone adbv is so important on an 'open-end-up' filter because....???
An ADBV works in all filter orientations. The filtered oil that has been pushed up inside of the engine will be pulled downward by gravity, and it will attempt to flow backwards through the filter. When it does this, if there is an ADBV, the pressure of the oil going backwards will hold it closed, not allowing the oil to drain back into the sump.
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: n8wvi
Originally Posted By: Soobs
4) The filter's Anti-Drainback Valve is made of silicone....
A silicone adbv is so important on an 'open-end-up' filter because....???
An ADBV works in all filter orientations. The filtered oil that has been pushed up inside of the engine will be pulled downward by gravity, and it will attempt to flow backwards through the filter. When it does this, if there is an ADBV, the pressure of the oil going backwards will hold it closed, not allowing the oil to drain back into the sump.
Sorry, I'm new to this stuff... Just curious - What's the problem if there was no ADBV and some of the oil were to flow back into the sump?
Originally Posted By: n8wvi
Originally Posted By: Soobs
4) The filter's Anti-Drainback Valve is made of silicone....
A silicone adbv is so important on an 'open-end-up' filter because....???
An ADBV works in all filter orientations. The filtered oil that has been pushed up inside of the engine will be pulled downward by gravity, and it will attempt to flow backwards through the filter. When it does this, if there is an ADBV, the pressure of the oil going backwards will hold it closed, not allowing the oil to drain back into the sump.
Sorry, I'm new to this stuff... Just curious - What's the problem if there was no ADBV and some of the oil were to flow back into the sump?
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Start up noise would one issue ..but mainly the ADBV prevents media back flushing. Those without it tend to be vertically oriented. When the centerwell is exposed, siphoning stops. They probably do not have a substantial vertical column of oil to process. The process is typically slow in most installations ..but some pump configurations pass more oil more easily than others.
I think your point (may be your point) is one of the most maligned notions created from the original filter study on minimopar.com. The back draining of oil to the sump ...in virtually the identical condition that it was in is a non-issue. Oil doesn't appear too much different from one pass to another.
I think your point (may be your point) is one of the most maligned notions created from the original filter study on minimopar.com. The back draining of oil to the sump ...in virtually the identical condition that it was in is a non-issue. Oil doesn't appear too much different from one pass to another.
- Status
