Few Questions on Synthetics

ALS

Messages
1,863
Location
Pittsburgh
Sorry for being wordy but I wanted you to know all the specifics that would help. When I comes to oil my knowledge is very minimal other than pour it in up to the line on the stick and change it every 3000 miles. As many have read I'm getting a new engine next week and planning on using synthetics. FYI It is a 2.3 liter 4 cylinder Turbo, Iron Block single over head cam mounted in an aluminum head. Here is what is going on, the owners manual says use 10W30 and change every 5000 miles. OK, since I'm going to a synthetic it will not cost any more than the 3000 mile oil changes that I was doing with the dino. Now the questions, I understand from the dealer that Volvo doesn't recommend the original 600 to 1200 break-in mile oil change any more but continue on to 5000 miles. Any thoughts on a better way? Should I start with a good dino or a synthetic for the break-in? What is a good break-in procedure with synthetic oil and Volvo's excellent Mann oil filter? Which oil is the better way to go? Which base and why you think it is best. The car is primary used for work which is three miles each way. Most of the time the oil temperature gauge doesn't move off the cold side post(120 degrees)when going to and from work. Water temp gets to operating temp about half way through the trip. This is the way the car is driven 4 or 5 days a week. The stainless steel dip stick gets rusty at the handle end. When the oil does get up to temp it does not get above 180 degrees and normal has been in the 170 range with the factory oil cooler. The only time I saw it hit 200 was when I was in bumper to bumper traffic and 95 plus degrees temperature with the AC on in south Florida in the August. I hope I gave you enough info to get a good idea which oil to go with.
 
Messages
6,388
Location
Washington St.
For the break-in period, I prefer a good conventional oil with two or three short-interval oil changes. Any manufacturing debris or metal break-in particles will be flushed out with this cheap oil. Then start with the expensive synthetic. As for the choice of oils, If you'd care to mail-order, I don't think that you can beat the combination of price and engine protection of Schaeffer's synthetic blend oil. Ken
 
I just want to add to Ken2's advise. He said to use a good quality conventional oil and then said about draining any particles out with the cheap oil. I'll agree with the quality conventional oil, but forget the word cheap. The is a very critical time in the engines life and the need for a high quality oil is now more than later. It may seem like a waste to drain an expensive oil after only a short 500 miles or less, but you have to consider what the engine is going through at this point. It has all new parts that aren't mated to each other. This means many "hills and valleys" which create heat. The oil is the difference between a proper break-in and damage. Think of what all that heat will do to a cheap oil, not to mention a lack of detergents in cheap oils. Do you want sludge in your new engine? I see people do this with motorcycles all of the time. They'll buy the cheapest oil they can find for a rebuilt engine because they're gonna drain it out in 100 - 500 miles. Glad it's not my engine.
 
Messages
79
Location
Mi
CONVENTIONAL OIL? CASTROL GTX 10/30 When I bought new cars in the past, when I could afford it. I always dumped the dealer oil at 500 miles. Then used GTX for another 1,500 and dumped again. Then went on a normal schedual
 
Messages
372
Location
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
quote:
Originally posted by medic: I just want to add to Ken2's advise. He said to use a good quality conventional oil and then said about draining any particles out with the cheap oil. I'll agree with the quality conventional oil, but forget the word cheap. The is a very critical time in the engines life and the need for a high quality oil is now more than later. It may seem like a waste to drain an expensive oil after only a short 500 miles or less, but you have to consider what the engine is going through at this point. It has all new parts that aren't mated to each other. This means many "hills and valleys" which create heat. The oil is the difference between a proper break-in and damage. Think of what all that heat will do to a cheap oil, not to mention a lack of detergents in cheap oils. Do you want sludge in your new engine? I see people do this with motorcycles all of the time. They'll buy the cheapest oil they can find for a rebuilt engine because they're gonna drain it out in 100 - 500 miles. Glad it's not my engine.
I understood "cheap" to be "namebrand conventional oil that costs very little at Walmart." [Wink] I've seen lots of good UOA for oils that fit this description and I see no reason why they can't be used for short drain intervals.
 
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