fast and hard break-in for high boost-nitrous Audi

[97boostedb5]

Hello, I have just about finished my Audi build, which is a stroked 20v 4 cyl. "AEB" motor sitting at 2008ccs
The motor is FULLY built and fully forged, valvetrain is built to the hilt, running a gt3076r turbo and direct port nitrous...

It's just about time to fire it up, but I am in the process of installing am AEM standalone EMS (not a PnP either, but the universal "race' box, CDI ignition and direct fire pencil coils)
HTere's no way to just startup and run it in on this EMS, as It is going to require a lot of tuning and work just to make it work!
So, I am likely going to need to reinstall all the stock sensors/systems and try to get this to work on the stock ECU, as I am wanting to break in the "fast and hard" method so as to seat my rings properly and avoid the chance of glazing my walls.

I had planned on using Valvoline straight 30 for break in, although I have used assembly lube and soaked my lifters in straight lucas during assembly.

What should I use for break in oil?
(this motor, by the way, is a bit on the loose side! also, I am already at 83mm bore. -2mm over! if I were to glaze my walls, I would have nowhere to go but to a new block...)
Any recommendations or suggestions are greatly welcomed!
I've used sae 30 valvoline for more than a few previous motors, and always use the "fast and hard" method for my builds. But I came here to ask for suggestions and to listen, so with that said, I'll sit back & stop typing now...
thanks,
-Kyle

 

[flacoman]

How about breaking it in without the turbo and the straight 30 wt?
You could then run it in more safely and then put the boost to it with the rings sealed and the valvetrain run-in.
my2c
Jorge

 

[97boostedb5]

I hadn't considered that... In fact, I don't even know if I could get it to run without a turbo considering how finicky the factory ECU is... although the same hypothesis my hold true for the (much larger) big turbo I have as well...

This notion would bring up another concern I should mention, and that is BMEP.
I understand BMEP is an important part of the break in, and I have read that BMEP should be close to the BMEP you intend to run for the engine.
Now this is going to be impossible, and I'm not sure that I'd want to even if I could, but If I am intending on 35-40lbs boost, then what kind of boost pressures would I want to use during break in?
Surely there is a limit for the amount of pressure that should be forced into a freshly built engine, right?

the "hard and fast" method makes total sense to me, and I fully relate to the reasoning behind this as it pertains to making pressure and seating in the rings, yet not making so much heat that I'd glaze the walls...

 

[97boostedb5]

I keep reading HORRIBLE things about Pennzoil, and despite the fact I have always used Valvoline conventional or else Mobil 1 synthetic, I nearly broke down and bought a case of Pennzoil for this motors break in, due to the fact that it is on sale right now at Advance Auto parts ($15 for 5 qts and a purolator filter!! )

Is there any justification to all the claims i hear about Pennzoil being loaded with harmful additives like Parafin wax, or is this just bandwagoning?
If it were a totally dangerous oil to use, I doubt they would still be in business, but then If I were totally sure, I wouldn't be asking about it!
Anyone care to express any opinions over what oil to use for the initial startup and break in?

 

[vinu_neuro]

You plan on breaking-in the engine 'hard and fast' without tuning first?...good luck with that.

Tune and break-in on the dyno.

 

[rg200amp]

Originally Posted By: 97boostedb5
I keep reading HORRIBLE things about Pennzoil, and despite the fact I have always used Valvoline conventional or else Mobil 1 synthetic, I nearly broke down and bought a case of Pennzoil for this motors break in, due to the fact that it is on sale right now at Advance Auto parts ($15 for 5 qts and a purolator filter!! )

Is there any justification to all the claims i hear about Pennzoil being loaded with harmful additives like Parafin wax, or is this just bandwagoning?
If it were a totally dangerous oil to use, I doubt they would still be in business, but then If I were totally sure, I wouldn't be asking about it!
Anyone care to express any opinions over what oil to use for the initial startup and break in?


Pennzoil is one of the best oils on the market. Please search your questions. This has been covered many many times.

You may want to check out Redline's engine break in additive. . .


Welcome to the forum. Please post up some pics, I'd love to see the car!

 

[gtx510]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm might be worth a read

I'd use a multigrade HDEO over a SAE30, it's got a high additive level and should start flowing thru the engine more quickly.
Rotella 5W-40, 50:50 Motorcraft 5W-30 + Rotella, low moly 5W-30 w/ zinc/phos break-in additive, etc.
You could also try heating your coolant/oil before pouring it in, that'll get you up to temp more quickly.

fwiw, I think GEMS in the UK made AEM's 'race' ECU

 

[glxpassat]

Brad Penn or Royal Purple break-in oil is what I would use.

 

[Audi Junkie]

Moly helps the cross-hatch wear flat, rather then being rolled over. How about some MaxLife SAE 30?

 

[Audi Junkie]

What's that "soaked in Lucas thing?" Sounds pretty corny.

 

[VW_TDI_PD]

LOL wasnt the "pennzoil paraffin wax" rumor thing from the 70's?