Fan switch died for the 3rd time.

FCD

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The fan switch that turns the electric fan on onmy 1988 Ford Escort XR3i died yesterday, for the 3rd time already in 4 years.
Could it be that the motor is on its way out and is pulling too much power and burning it out too fast? it sounds ok and makes no strange noises, from the factory it does not have a fuse or relay, i've been told to re-weire it to include a relay and fuse so if anything it burns out the fuse and not the switch, although it's only 7 Euro and takes 15 minutes to change... i hate electrical problems and it doesn't help that i am lousy when it comes to anything electrical on cars lol
 
The fan switch that turns the electric fan on onmy 1988 Ford Escort XR3i died yesterday, for the 3rd time already in 4 years.
Could it be that the motor is on its way out and is pulling too much power and burning it out too fast? it sounds ok and makes no strange noises, from the factory it does not have a fuse or relay, i've been told to re-weire it to include a relay and fuse so if anything it burns out the fuse and not the switch, although it's only 7 Euro and takes 15 minutes to change... i hate electrical problems and it doesn't help that i am lousy when it comes to anything electrical on cars lol
As long as the fan seems to be spinning at normal RPM, it's probably fine.

I am assuming you are talking about the temperature-sensor "switch" for the radiator fan?

7 Euros... I don't know your auto parts market there, but that seems like you might be buying the lower quality generic switches so I would suggest a better brand if not Motorcraft. In the US at Rock Auto, a $7USD switch is the cheapest one they have while most are over twice that price, and two have a 3 year warranty.

Regardless, yes you could use the switch, to energize a relay. It seems odd to me that it does not have at least a fuse. Do you have a wiring diagram for it? I mean complete, from the battery?

Rock Auto also shows a fan relay listed, for an '88 with a 1.9L engine.
 
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As regular brushed electric motors age they wear the brushes which can get to the point that they make poor contact with the commutator which results in high current draw and that's harder on a switch without a relay. With a fused circuit at this point they start blowing the stock rated fuse. It was common for older cars to not have relays on circuits that they're universal now like headlights, etc. Adding a relay would be a good idea, and a fuse is an must on every circuit in a modern car. If you just end up replacing the switch again make sure that the switch is rated to handle the current draw of the radiator fan.
 
This sounds like the OPS in my old Sierra-AC Delco, from AAP, lifetime warranty, died every 3 years like clockwork! Took it back, got another new one. I finally gave up & installed a relay (for the fuel transfer pump).
 
Many Hvac blower motors, dont use ball bearings, just a oiled bushing surrounded by felt. They can and do draw more amperage when this lube is dried out, and the lower the voltage is, the more amperage the already undersized wire and ancient oxidized connections are trying to carry, causing more voltage drop and less voltage reaching the struggling motor.

I cleaned my carboned up speed switch's contacts, more than once, before replaced burnt portions of its harness, and the motor itself, and its resistor, and thickened up all its wiring which solved the issues.

What I should have done earlier, was just wire the motor directly to a PWM motor speed controller, as all those circuit upgrades are now bypassed in favor of the latter. I now have infinitely variable fan speed, that also wastes less alternator/battery power by heating the speed reducing resistors.

I also enjoy being able to power the fan with engine off, no key in the ignition, even with the possibility of human error induced battery depletion.

Here is one example of such a product.


Note that below 21khz they can make the motor make an audible whine to human ears at reduced speeds.

Lubing the felts of the Hvac motor might be worthwhile. The VW Vanagon guys who have to rip apart the entire dash to access the motor, drill a port in the housing in order to be able to add oil as the felt dries up so they don't have to rip apart the whole dash each time.

My replacement VDO branded blower motor has has issues with the brushes sticking, remedied the second time by reducing their size with 800 grit.

I have hundreds of hours on this motor with the 40 amp/ 60 amp surge PWM speed controller. My Motor will draw 12 to 18 amps at highest speeds, depending on system voltage and the position of the diverting doors which place more or less resistance to the motor.

I have extended the potentiometer wiring for the On/OFF combined speed dial and mounted it next to the original 4 position lever speed switch. I can swap 2 anderson powerpole connectors and return the rebuilt original blower motor circuit to full Function, but there is No reason to do so, and i regret the efforts I expended to do so, before I went with the PWM motor speed controller.

If you are not concerned about the original switch's function, then the PWM motor speed controller can be the easiest cheapest , and permanent solution, and yield more function, more efficiently.
 
Can we get some clarification, which motor is this, the HVAC or the radiator fan?!!

I don't necessarily agree that this vehicle needs some new extra circuits added on, considering it (presumably) lasted many years with the original configuration and restoring that, may be more than needed to make it last past the grave.

Question the quality of the (aftermarket?) switch, use a multimeter to measure voltage drops across the wiring and connectors. Measure current at the motor. There "might" be a simple solution that does not require shotgunning other things. Or you might just need a new fan motor. ;)
 
As long as the fan seems to be spinning at normal RPM, it's probably fine.

I am assuming you are talking about the temperature-sensor "switch" for the radiator fan?

7 Euros... I don't know your auto parts market there, but that seems like you might be buying the lower quality generic switches so I would suggest a better brand if not Motorcraft. In the US at Rock Auto, a $7USD switch is the cheapest one they have while most are over twice that price, and two have a 3 year warranty.

Regardless, yes you could use the switch, to energize a relay. It seems odd to me that it does not have at least a fuse. Do you have a wiring diagram for it? I mean complete, from the battery?

Rock Auto also shows a fan relay listed, for an '88 with a 1.9L engine.
Car in question is a European , not US Escort, and it does not have a radiator fan relay in stock form.
 
As regular brushed electric motors age they wear the brushes which can get to the point that they make poor contact with the commutator which results in high current draw and that's harder on a switch without a relay. With a fused circuit at this point they start blowing the stock rated fuse. It was common for older cars to not have relays on circuits that they're universal now like headlights, etc. Adding a relay would be a good idea, and a fuse is an must on every circuit in a modern car. If you just end up replacing the switch again make sure that the switch is rated to handle the current draw of the radiator fan.
I've thought that could be the case, for now i've fitted a new one which was free as it was still under warranty, exact same brand and part number, and it works, if it fails again i'll definitely investigate further what is going on.
 
I've thought that could be the case, for now i've fitted a new one which was free as it was still under warranty, exact same brand and part number, and it works, if it fails again i'll definitely investigate further what is going on.
Can I suggest you beg /steal/borrow a DC current clamp and actually measure the current seen by the fan?
Also - measure the voltage difference/drop between the 2 fat terminals on the relay that carries the current to the fan...............

From those readings and the rating of the relay, you will be able to get a very good idea of reliability/suitability of the combination
 
Can I suggest you beg /steal/borrow a DC current clamp and actually measure the current seen by the fan?
Also - measure the voltage difference/drop between the 2 fat terminals on the relay that carries the current to the fan...............

From those readings and the rating of the relay, you will be able to get a very good idea of reliability/suitability of the combination
There is no relay, the power goes direct from the switch to the fan.
 
I think you probably have been getting defective new parts which is not uncommon these days. IIRC the motor always has plus power the switch makes a ground, the fan itself may use one or two relays and a resistor in the + circuit for high and low speed on AC equipped cars.
 
Many Hvac blower motors, dont use ball bearings, just a oiled bushing surrounded by felt. They can and do draw more amperage when this lube is dried out, and the lower the voltage is, the more amperage the already undersized wire and ancient oxidized connections are trying to carry, causing more voltage drop and less voltage reaching the struggling motor.

I cleaned my carboned up speed switch's contacts, more than once, before replaced burnt portions of its harness, and the motor itself, and its resistor, and thickened up all its wiring which solved the issues.

What I should have done earlier, was just wire the motor directly to a PWM motor speed controller, as all those circuit upgrades are now bypassed in favor of the latter. I now have infinitely variable fan speed, that also wastes less alternator/battery power by heating the speed reducing resistors.

I also enjoy being able to power the fan with engine off, no key in the ignition, even with the possibility of human error induced battery depletion.

Here is one example of such a product.


Note that below 21khz they can make the motor make an audible whine to human ears at reduced speeds.

Lubing the felts of the Hvac motor might be worthwhile. The VW Vanagon guys who have to rip apart the entire dash to access the motor, drill a port in the housing in order to be able to add oil as the felt dries up so they don't have to rip apart the whole dash each time.

My replacement VDO branded blower motor has has issues with the brushes sticking, remedied the second time by reducing their size with 800 grit.

I have hundreds of hours on this motor with the 40 amp/ 60 amp surge PWM speed controller. My Motor will draw 12 to 18 amps at highest speeds, depending on system voltage and the position of the diverting doors which place more or less resistance to the motor.

I have extended the potentiometer wiring for the On/OFF combined speed dial and mounted it next to the original 4 position lever speed switch. I can swap 2 anderson powerpole connectors and return the rebuilt original blower motor circuit to full Function, but there is No reason to do so, and i regret the efforts I expended to do so, before I went with the PWM motor speed controller.

If you are not concerned about the original switch's function, then the PWM motor speed controller can be the easiest cheapest , and permanent solution, and yield more function, more efficiently.
Good solution. Regarding oiling the bushings. Typically, the fan side can't be reached for oiling unless one takes it off. Drilling hole would be impossible with it still in dash?
 
Good solution. Regarding oiling the bushings. Typically, the fan side can't be reached for oiling unless one takes it off. Drilling hole would be impossible with it still in dash?
I'm not talking about the blower motor haha
What i mean by fan switch is the sensor that screws into the thermostat housing that turns the radiator fan on and off.
 
I think you probably have been getting defective new parts which is not uncommon these days. IIRC the motor always has plus power the switch makes a ground, the fan itself may use one or two relays and a resistor in the + circuit for high and low speed on AC equipped cars.
Could be i guess, definitely not using this brand again if it breaks a 4th time.
 
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