fallout remover?

oilpan49 · May 1, 2005

I've tried clay bars in the past and I've tried Megs Overspray clay just recently and I've come to the conclusion that I just don't like them.

Now I've heard of some companies that make "fallout remover" I know Prowax does and I heard somewhere on some forum that there's this japanese stuff called Matrix. Supposedly with Martrix you spray it on your paint and it turns some other color when it's ready to be removed. When you do remove it, your paint will be slick as ice.

With Prowax's stuff called C-98 I believe is the part# you sponge it onto your finish, let it dwell, then wipe clean with a cloth or spray off with a hose. Has anyone ever used some sort of fallout remover before?? do you like it compared to a clay bar?? Thanks,,,,,AR

Scooby · May 4, 2005

The ONLY thing I have found that will remove brake dust, industrial fallout and raildust IS a claybar. Perhaps you are using a poor kind. The Mequiars and Mothers that are available at chain stores and stores like WalMart are very poor quality.

Unless you buy from a specific supplier, usually online or from an autobody supplier store the only clay I have found that is decent is the blue Clay Magic. If you can find a wholesale 3M dealer or autobody supplier they should have 3M clay or the pro line of Meguairs clay.

I used to own my own detail shop and still detail from time to time. You can polish and wax all you want, but until you get the surface prepped correctly with clay, you're wasting your time. Most of the time when people say they don't like working with clay it is one of two things 1)poor clay, 2)operator error. Using clay is absolutely the EASIEST of the detail process.

I use a capful or two or car wash concentrate into a spray bottle filled with water. Make SURE you keep the area very, very well lubed with the soap spray. Wipe down after claying, but doesn't have to be perfect because you'll need to wash again. Before waxing, ALWAYS wash with either BLUE ORIGINAL DAWN or a car wash that specifically says for stripping wax. Otherwise, your product isn't reaching the finish, just being piled on top of whatever was on there.

bretfraz · May 4, 2005

I think the argument for fallout removers is that clay shears off the tops of the debris and doesn't really remove it from the substrate like a tweezers action would.

A chemical fallout remover supposedly dissolves the debris either with acid or alkaline solutions (or both), which then allows the remaining debris to simply be washed off with a shampoo. The fallout removers also are supposed to stop any further damage from chemical reactions, like brake dust particles continuing to rust.

The mfr's of fallout removers have a compelling argument for their products. But how these product apply to your typical car enthusiast that doesn't have noticeable paint problems is something to consider and question.

Larry the Cable Guy · May 4, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by Scooby:
The ONLY thing I have found that will remove brake dust, industrial fallout and raildust IS a claybar. ...the only clay I have found that is decent is the blue Clay Magic. If you can find a wholesale 3M dealer or autobody supplier they should have 3M clay or the pro line of Meguairs clay.

...Before waxing, ALWAYS wash with either BLUE ORIGINAL DAWN or a car wash that specifically says for stripping wax. Otherwise, your product isn't reaching the finish, just being piled on top of whatever was on there.

Ditto, ditto, ditto what Scooby sez. I have had the best results with the blue ClayMagic bars over any of the "over the counter" clay bars. As far as I know, the ClayMagic people invented the stuff and hold the patents to it. They license the technology to other manufacturers...that isn't to say that the other manufacturerss cannot produce a product that is equal to or even superior to ClayMagic.

Steve

Amkeer · May 5, 2005

Clay is what you need. I use a quick detail as a lubricant and use clay magic.

Russell · May 5, 2005

I use clay magic on my cars. Works very well to remove most contaminants.

Farbie · May 6, 2005

I agree - Clay Magic is excellent. Autozone sells the Clay Magic and lube combo for $9.99.

1 FMF · May 6, 2005

autogeek.net I've found has the best deal on claybar, when not on backorder.

I can understand your frustration. Clay is very good, but it isn't the endall to prepping in some cases. I had spraypainted some metal in my basement, almond color rustoleum, and car was in the garage one door away and the car is black

Fortunately the spray only settled on the hood and not on the fenders. The clay took most of the paint off but not all, and I ended up using my liquid ibiz wax to get the rest off no problem.

can't find the c-98 prowax at their website, can you provide more info on it? prowax looks like they have some good stuff, and their prices are good too.

[ May 06, 2005, 01:16 PM: Message edited by: 1 FMF ]

Quattro Pete · May 6, 2005

Another vote for ClayMagic. I find it much easier (softer) to work with than Zaino clay I've used in the past.

04.SPT.WRX · May 7, 2005

Clay Magic that much better? I have used the Mothers kit and thought it was the best (and easiest!) thing I had ever done to paint.

The detail spray in the Mothers kit seems to work really well. Diluted car wash concentrate to clay with? Any specific ones?

Larry the Cable Guy · May 7, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by 04.SPT.WRX:
Clay Magic that much better?

Yeah, I kinda think that it is and I also like the smell of their clay lube/detailing spray.

quote:

Originally posted by 04.SPT.WRX:
The detail spray in the Mothers kit seems to work really well. Diluted car wash concentrate to clay with? Any specific ones?

I didn't care for Mother's detailing spray...just a personal preference kinda thing I guess. Right now I'm using "Speed Shine" from Griot's Garage with some Mother's clay because I couldn't find any Clay Magic at the time. It certainly gets the job done (it is soo amazing what clay can do for paint!) but it just isn't my usual...

Steve

oilpan49 · May 7, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by 1 FMF:
autogeek.net I've found has the best deal on claybar, when not on backorder.

I can understand your frustration. Clay is very good, but it isn't the endall to prepping in some cases. I had spraypainted some metal in my basement, almond color rustoleum, and car was in the garage one door away and the car is black

Fortunately the spray only settled on the hood and not on the fenders. The clay took most of the paint off but not all, and I ended up using my liquid ibiz wax to get the rest off no problem.

can't find the c-98 prowax at their website, can you provide more info on it? prowax looks like they have some good stuff, and their prices are good too.

Ok my bad. The part # is C-45. I don't know why I was thinking C-98. Click here to check it out. Third product down called "Power Lift Fallout Remover Liquid" http://www.prowax.com/solvnts_rmvrs.shtml My apologies for not responding sooner,,,,,AR

1 FMF · May 7, 2005

it says it contains oxalic acid. Is probably the same stuff I use to clean my boat hull with

I can tell you it's nasty stuff in spray form as in the hull cleaner, you definitely want to wear gloves, and a respirator if the wind isn't cooperating with you. Sounds like the prowax stuff might be more diluted. The hull cleaner is a spray and darn near full strength, and when it hits the hull with algae and scum on it it starts smoking. It definitely works. I don't know how safe it would be on plastic or rubber parts though on a car, would most likely discolor it. Sounds like a good product.

loudist · May 7, 2005

[whoops, looks like the boat owner posted this info just before me]

The active ingrediant in the product AR suggested is oxalic acid.
You can get this locally by getting Bon Ami Powder (not Bon Ami Cleanser), or as a stand alone product at a marine supply store for cleaning teak. Another source could be cleaning chemical supply.
Is good on window glass (outside glass only, not good for the plastic tint inside).

Larry the Cable Guy · May 9, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by 1 FMF:
it says it contains oxalic acid. ...I can tell you it's nasty stuff in spray form as in the hull cleaner, you definitely want to wear gloves, and a respirator if the wind isn't cooperating with you.

YIKES! I'll stick with the ClayMagic, a kinder, gentler and more relaxing way to go about it.

I stopped doing acid a looong time ago. I'd hate to have "detailing flashbacks".

Steve

fallout remover?

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