I miss my 2002 Tacoma 5VZFE. Had 190K before trade in. Neglect like this makes me throw up.
Failure Analysis: Toyota V6 Timing Belt Failure
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Kestas
Staff member
I still don't see the connection between the idler pulley failure and the water pump failure. There is something unsaid.
thank goodness for low tech!!! a friends chevette a long time ago broke his timing belt going to work, the engine kicked back while trying to start it, i suspected a timing issue, less than $100 later he was back in action!! prolly in the 70's, times have changed a lot $$$$$
My parents lucked out with the only issue with their same year 2000 Tundra was Toyota fine frame replacement.
They changed timing belt for parts and 1 hr labor since motor was obviously easy to access. They did exhaust parts price too.
They changed timing belt for parts and 1 hr labor since motor was obviously easy to access. They did exhaust parts price too.
Kestas
Staff member
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I still don't see the connection between the idler pulley failure and the water pump failure. There is something unsaid.
The belt chords probably too out the WP
How?
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I still don't see the connection between the idler pulley failure and the water pump failure. There is something unsaid.
The belt chords probably too out the WP
How?
That water pump didn't fail when the engine was running-the impeller crack is a clean break, not chewed up, no visible damage to the inside of the housing. Lucky, too, because if it had failed while it was running it would have launched shrapnel throughout the cooling system, maybe even destroyed the front cover. This is why I'm not a big timing belt fan, bad things happen when components fail, fortunately the truck's owner dodged a bullet this time, next time he might not be so lucky!
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Good logic Bullwinkle. A busted fragment would definitely leave marks. The clean break,it was made after ward. I assumed, silly me, that by 150 K miles, the engine was going to need changing the belt for 3rd time at 180K. So I took it to a great mechanic to have it done then. Mike showed me the remains of what must have been the original. Shortly after Mike changed careers. I tore it in 1/2 like it was a bad piece of cloth. I became a devout belt changer at that point. Some times the "worn out belt" looks fine. Doesnt matter. Tensioner too, about 1/2 the take offs were getting noisy.I used to get a Continental belt and tensioner for less than 30$.
saw a similar failure in a 3.2 chrysler.
i got the car free as it had "caught on fire"'
it was still running when i started it with a jump box.
it had sat 2 years after the "fire" and the smell had departed only to return when i started it after not finding evidence of a fire.
boy did that thing stink!screaming like a banshee too.
and every bearing in the front of that area was beyond shot.
replaced it all and sold car to a neighbor.
7 years ago.
they still drive it every day.
i got the car free as it had "caught on fire"'
it was still running when i started it with a jump box.
it had sat 2 years after the "fire" and the smell had departed only to return when i started it after not finding evidence of a fire.
boy did that thing stink!screaming like a banshee too.
and every bearing in the front of that area was beyond shot.
replaced it all and sold car to a neighbor.
7 years ago.
they still drive it every day.
I have seen timing components on this motor go longer mileage wise. I wonder if 17 year old grease in that idler is what failed?
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
That water pump didn't fail when the engine was running-the impeller crack is a clean break, not chewed up, no visible damage to the inside of the housing. ...........
+1
If only this engine is 'interference' type, the pump impeller and timing belt would be in far better shape ...
probably at the expense of valve stems ..
That water pump didn't fail when the engine was running-the impeller crack is a clean break, not chewed up, no visible damage to the inside of the housing. ...........
+1
If only this engine is 'interference' type, the pump impeller and timing belt would be in far better shape ...
probably at the expense of valve stems ..
Wow...neglected for sure.
Obviously, the TB tensioner pulley bearing failed. It was now 17yrs old. The water pump bearing also failed. It too was 17yrs old. If you look closely at the photo, you'll see where an impeller was hitting the inside of the case. The WP bearing finally got wobbly enough to cause the impeller to hit hard enough it fractured. The OP noted this broken piece fell out when the WP cover was removed.
17yrs is a LONG time to go on these components...obviously TOO LONG. Given the WP condition, it appears the coolant was never changed either. Part of the coolants job is to lube the WP bearing.
How lucky it's a non-interference motor.
Know we know just what kind of 'service' this motor was getting from the shop.
Obviously, the TB tensioner pulley bearing failed. It was now 17yrs old. The water pump bearing also failed. It too was 17yrs old. If you look closely at the photo, you'll see where an impeller was hitting the inside of the case. The WP bearing finally got wobbly enough to cause the impeller to hit hard enough it fractured. The OP noted this broken piece fell out when the WP cover was removed.
17yrs is a LONG time to go on these components...obviously TOO LONG. Given the WP condition, it appears the coolant was never changed either. Part of the coolants job is to lube the WP bearing.
How lucky it's a non-interference motor.
Know we know just what kind of 'service' this motor was getting from the shop.
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Are you fixing it?
He said back in post #6 that he already fixed it.
Are you fixing it?
He said back in post #6 that he already fixed it.
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Wow...neglected for sure.
Obviously, the TB tensioner pulley bearing failed. It was now 17yrs old. The water pump bearing also failed. It too was 17yrs old. If you look closely at the photo, you'll see where an impeller was hitting the inside of the case. The WP bearing finally got wobbly enough to cause the impeller to hit hard enough it fractured. The OP noted this broken piece fell out when the WP cover was removed.
17yrs is a LONG time to go on these components...obviously TOO LONG. Given the WP condition, it appears the coolant was never changed either. Part of the coolants job is to lube the WP bearing.
How lucky it's a non-interference motor.
Know we know just what kind of 'service' this motor was getting from the shop.
It was clearly severely neglected. But to your claim of coolant lubing the water pump bearing. That is simply wrong. Modern water pumps have sealed, lubricated spindle bearings. If coolant (or the rust laden acidic mess coursing through the cooling system in this case) reaches one or both of these bearings, that means a seal has failed. Once a seal fails, contamination will destroy the bearing(s) in short order.
Wow...neglected for sure.
Obviously, the TB tensioner pulley bearing failed. It was now 17yrs old. The water pump bearing also failed. It too was 17yrs old. If you look closely at the photo, you'll see where an impeller was hitting the inside of the case. The WP bearing finally got wobbly enough to cause the impeller to hit hard enough it fractured. The OP noted this broken piece fell out when the WP cover was removed.
17yrs is a LONG time to go on these components...obviously TOO LONG. Given the WP condition, it appears the coolant was never changed either. Part of the coolants job is to lube the WP bearing.
How lucky it's a non-interference motor.
Know we know just what kind of 'service' this motor was getting from the shop.
It was clearly severely neglected. But to your claim of coolant lubing the water pump bearing. That is simply wrong. Modern water pumps have sealed, lubricated spindle bearings. If coolant (or the rust laden acidic mess coursing through the cooling system in this case) reaches one or both of these bearings, that means a seal has failed. Once a seal fails, contamination will destroy the bearing(s) in short order.
Originally Posted By: 02SE
It was clearly severely neglected. But to your claim of coolant lubing the water pump bearing. That is simply wrong. Modern water pumps have sealed, lubricated spindle bearings. If coolant (or the rust laden acidic mess coursing through the cooling system in this case) reaches one or both of these bearings, that means a seal has failed. Once a seal fails, contamination will destroy the bearing(s) in short order.
Fair enough.
I thought they were completely sealed. However read something recently from Aisin that stated not to ever turn a WP rotor before installation. Thought that odd. Never heard of that before. So I concluded it might have something to do with needing coolant.
Obviously the seals, then the bearing failed on this one. Pure neglect.
It was clearly severely neglected. But to your claim of coolant lubing the water pump bearing. That is simply wrong. Modern water pumps have sealed, lubricated spindle bearings. If coolant (or the rust laden acidic mess coursing through the cooling system in this case) reaches one or both of these bearings, that means a seal has failed. Once a seal fails, contamination will destroy the bearing(s) in short order.
Fair enough.
I thought they were completely sealed. However read something recently from Aisin that stated not to ever turn a WP rotor before installation. Thought that odd. Never heard of that before. So I concluded it might have something to do with needing coolant.
Obviously the seals, then the bearing failed on this one. Pure neglect.
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