I am having a hard time tracking down a noise in the front end of my truck. Its a 1988 f150 2wd. When I hit a bump, like the curb coming into my drive way, I get a popping noise from the right front wheel. Occasionally I also get a pretty violent shimmy under braking. I have replaced the brake calipers, wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends and sway bar links, but the popping sound is still there. I can't see any rubber or joints that are loose. Frankly I can't find a thing wrong. Any ideas of where I should look next?
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F-150 Front end 'pops' when I hit a bump.
- Thread starter nwjones18
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Track bar bushings
Originally Posted By: Spazdog
Radius arm bushings
is that the correct name? The one's that extend from the I beam to under the door?
Radius arm bushings
is that the correct name? The one's that extend from the I beam to under the door?
I had a bad radius arm bushing in my '95 F150 years ago. Going over bumps if felt like someone was pounding the floor pan under my feet. Bushings looked fine on inspection, but when we took them apart we could see they were very bad. That truck another time got so bad that it wore the radius arm oval at the point of the bushing, and a year later it snapped off in that spot.
My Ranger had a klunking noise on slow bumps that turned out to be stabilizer bar (sway bar) bushings (not the links). That caused the truck to shift on freeway bumps on curves--very unsettling.
My Ranger had a klunking noise on slow bumps that turned out to be stabilizer bar (sway bar) bushings (not the links). That caused the truck to shift on freeway bumps on curves--very unsettling.
nwjones18
Thread starter
Well I just crawled under the truck and pulled the big nut off the radius arm bushings. I do not see anything wrong with them. Rubber is still completely intact and tight. I had already bought some new ones, but the bracket on my truck is riveted on, and I think it would take a torch to get it off, so I'm not going to bother for now. I also took a good hard look at the sway bar and sway bar links. I can't see the problem. Thanks for the input though!
That's a funny way to check radius arm bushings. Should you feel the need to check them again in the future, here's an easier way provided you have level ground:
-Look for marks where the washer at the front of the bushing may have contacted the frame. Any evidence of contact indicates a bad bushing. If the washer is getting a flat side at the top, expect to need a replacement bracket as well.
-Drive forwards, then stop. Measure the distance between the big washer forward of the bushing and the frame.
-Drive backwards, then stop. Measure the distance between the big washer forward of the bushing and the frame. Any difference between the two measurements indicates a worn bushing.
Alternately, provided you have an assistant available:
-Be sure your assistant isn't a POed neighbor or wife or some such person who may wish to run you over.
-Have your assistant drive forwards and backwards slowly a foot or so.
-While this is happening, watch for vertical movement of the radius arm at the bracket.
-Look for marks where the washer at the front of the bushing may have contacted the frame. Any evidence of contact indicates a bad bushing. If the washer is getting a flat side at the top, expect to need a replacement bracket as well.
-Drive forwards, then stop. Measure the distance between the big washer forward of the bushing and the frame.
-Drive backwards, then stop. Measure the distance between the big washer forward of the bushing and the frame. Any difference between the two measurements indicates a worn bushing.
Alternately, provided you have an assistant available:
-Be sure your assistant isn't a POed neighbor or wife or some such person who may wish to run you over.
-Have your assistant drive forwards and backwards slowly a foot or so.
-While this is happening, watch for vertical movement of the radius arm at the bracket.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: nwjones18
I also took a good hard look at the sway bar and sway bar links.
I like this plan. Park on level ground and grasp the bar at it's center. Try to move it up and down. Next, grasp it between the pivot bushings and the ends (do this at both ends) and try to move it up and down. If you feel any free movement (not bending) you've found your problem.
I also took a good hard look at the sway bar and sway bar links.
I like this plan. Park on level ground and grasp the bar at it's center. Try to move it up and down. Next, grasp it between the pivot bushings and the ends (do this at both ends) and try to move it up and down. If you feel any free movement (not bending) you've found your problem.
Originally Posted By: nwjones18
Well I just crawled under the truck and pulled the big nut off the radius arm bushings. I do not see anything wrong with them. Rubber is still completely intact and tight. I had already bought some new ones, but the bracket on my truck is riveted on, and I think it would take a torch to get it off, so I'm not going to bother for now. I also took a good hard look at the sway bar and sway bar links. I can't see the problem. Thanks for the input though!
Did you pull all the rubber off the bolted side so you could see the bracket where the radius arm comes through it? Then you would at least see whether there is any metal to metal wear. But it sounds like Yonyon has a great procedure.
When the shop did mine they torched out the rivits as I recall, and then replaced them with bolts. Use good bolts. I don't know what is required, but I would be inclined to overkill, like maybe Grade 8, but check it out.
Well I just crawled under the truck and pulled the big nut off the radius arm bushings. I do not see anything wrong with them. Rubber is still completely intact and tight. I had already bought some new ones, but the bracket on my truck is riveted on, and I think it would take a torch to get it off, so I'm not going to bother for now. I also took a good hard look at the sway bar and sway bar links. I can't see the problem. Thanks for the input though!
Did you pull all the rubber off the bolted side so you could see the bracket where the radius arm comes through it? Then you would at least see whether there is any metal to metal wear. But it sounds like Yonyon has a great procedure.
When the shop did mine they torched out the rivits as I recall, and then replaced them with bolts. Use good bolts. I don't know what is required, but I would be inclined to overkill, like maybe Grade 8, but check it out.
nwjones18
Thread starter
Well I went for it today and I replaced the radius arm and I-beam bushings... It took me around 3hrs for the first side and 2 for the second. I just unhooked everything and pulled the whole axle/radius arm assembly out together. Used a ball joint press on the i-beam bushings. I think I have got it fixed, but have only driven it around the block. I'll post if the popping sound comes back. Thanks everyone.
Glad this is resolved. I replaced all of the front end bushings on my father's 1995 F-150. I am glad you didn't cut the rivets. I have never heard of such a recommendation. The radius arm can be pulled or pushed out just fine if you know what you are doing.
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