Extended Drain Interval with M1 AFE 0W-30

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I have a 2012 Lexus IS350, 2GR-FSE motor, calls for 5W-30. It has 115k miles on it, and it currently has 5500 miles on the oil and filter. I filled it with Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 and put an Amsoil Ea15k filter on the car. I'm about to take a 400 mile road trip tomorrow, should I consider changing the oil just before the trip? The motor does not seem to have burnt or leaked any oil in the last 5500 miles. I'm thinking that I should be good at least in terms of filtration. I guess the biggest concern would be whether the M1 AFE 0W-30 would hold up to an extended drain interval. I cannot find many answers about M1 0W-30 and extended drain intervals. What do you think? I do drive with an extremely heavy right foot, if that matters.
 
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If I had to give an educated guess I'd say it should be fine. To be certain do a UOA when you change your oil after the trip. That should eliminate any guess work and help you determine just how long the oil can go should you continue to use it going forward.
 

dnewton3

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Originally Posted by Deontologist
... should I consider changing the oil just before the trip? ... What do you think?
I am presuming that there's nothing wrong with the engine or you would have stated as such. Therefore, here's what I think. I think 5900 miles (your 5500 + another 400) is a pitiful waste of a syn lube. Should you change the oil before the trip? No. Should you change it after the trip? No - not for another 7-9k miles or so. But that's going to make your head explode, so let's compromise. Conventional oils in most applications can easily go 10k miles. Syns should be able to go far past that. There are SAE studies, and my "normalcy" study, that show wear rates trend downward for nearly every type/brand of engine out to 15k miles, no matter what lube/filter is used. Wear rates do not go up as most folks suspect until well after 15k miles of oil/filter use. Despite all the "it's cheap insurance" dogma prevalent here and elsewhere, there's good data from many sources to show my recommendation is sane. If you simply cannot bring yourself to extend out past 10k miles, then quit using syns; what you're doing is a waste of money. It is not "cheap insurance" to quit using a product that has at least 50% of it's viable lifespan still available. - Would you change a quality Michelin tire after only 30k miles of use, because it's "cheap insurance" to get rid of it in favor of a new tire? - Would you toss out a beer after only consuming half the bottle, for it's "cheap insurance" to just get another one? - Would you buy a new battery for your car, after only two years of using the current one, because it's "cheap insurance"? If you answer no to these, then why are you wasting oil??? I encourage you to start a UOA program, if you have not already. Convince yourself with the data, not the BITOG supposition of uninformed opinions. If you have a UOA series already, then what's it telling you? What are your results? Here's my advice: 1) don't change the oil yet; go on the trip. 2) when you get back, go ahead and change the oil (you know that's what you're going to do anyway, so let's not pretend otherwise). At the OFCI, get a UOA. 3) after the UOA data comes back, and it's very likely shows there was tons of life left in the lube, then run your next OFCI to 7.5k miles, and then UOA again. 4) after that next one comes back good (and it will) then extend to 10k miles. 5) do this until you get to a reasonable condemnation limit not based on panic or ridicule, but on real data wear rates. And I'm willing to put my money where my mouth is! I'll offer to pay for the UOA and the OFCI, if the UOA data shows that doubling your OFCI out to 12k miles is unsafe, as determined by macro data statistical analysis (defined as going outside the bounds of the stdev limits for the wear rates of the common metals; Fe, Al, Pb, Cu). Your engine must be healthy; no coolant, fuel or air ingestion issues. You must share your UOA data here on BITOG. You must drive normally; no hanky panky to bias the results; no additives or bizarre stuff. Just your normal routines with the typical products as described. If I'm right, you have to double your OFCI and pay for the UOA and OFCI. If I'm wrong, I pay for the UOA and also the OFCI. You are allowed to pick a member here that is trustworthy, and I'll send a check to be held in escrow until the results come back. Man up, trust the real world data, and live outside your comfort zone by making an informed decision, not one based on mythology and rhetoric. Or not ... it's up to you.
 
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8,994
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I ran M1 AFE 0W-20 in my retired 2010 FX4 for 15K+ miles with no issues whatsoever, but I did UOA to understand the health of the oil. Though some here may disagree, I opine that you could blindly run any mainstream synthetic for 10K miles without even thinking about it. There will be others who will say that you are wasting money by running a synthetic for less than 10K, I typically ignore that because there is enough cheap synthetic on the market to make conventional oils unattractive (to me). Of course, I am not saying that conventional oils are "substandard" in any way. I ran Mobil Super 5000 5W-20 in that same truck for more than 10K miles with no issues. In the end, you must do whatever makes you feel good, but on a non-DI engine 10K would be my baseline.
 
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Mobil once claimed their vanilla synthetic oils could run 10k miles. I cannot find that statement now. Here is their official statement on their vanilla oils. "Oil change intervals can be as short as 3,000 miles or as long as 15,000 miles on some new cars. We recommend that you follow the oil and filter change frequencies shown in your owner's manual, especially during the warranty period. With the high-performance reserves of Mobil 1, you can have the confidence to go the full mileage or time frame recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil 1 is especially suitable for the latest vehicles with extended drain intervals or vehicles with oil monitoring systems that vary oil drain intervals." Short answer, follow your OM. But I would use it with confidence for 10k.
 
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What dnewton3 is absolutely true. Many manufacturers are suggesting 7K miles on conventional and 10K on synthetic. Real Oil light monitors (that actually compute the oil wear based on multiple factors not just miles and time) are showing way beyond 5K on conventional oil. It only falls apart when you can get Pennzoil platinum for $10/jug after rebate while Supertech or chevron conventional is $12. Then dump it whenever you want between 5-10K with a clear conscience. bring up the TBN in the recycle oil bin. smile
 
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Central Virginia
Originally Posted by dnewton3
Originally Posted by Deontologist
... should I consider changing the oil just before the trip? ... What do you think?
I am presuming that there's nothing wrong with the engine or you would have stated as such. Therefore, here's what I think. - Would you toss out a beer after only consuming half the bottle, for it's "cheap insurance" to just get another one?
No. That's alcohol abuse LOL.
 
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Wet side WA
Originally Posted by dnewton3
Originally Posted by Deontologist
... should I consider changing the oil just before the trip? ... What do you think?
- Would you toss out a beer after only consuming half the bottle, for it's "cheap insurance" to just get another one?
Yes because warm beer has no value!
 
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5,761
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New England
Originally Posted by dnewton3
Originally Posted by Deontologist
... should I consider changing the oil just before the trip? ... What do you think?
I am presuming that there's nothing wrong with the engine or you would have stated as such. Therefore, here's what I think. … Man up, trust the real world data, and live outside your comfort zone by making an informed decision, not one based on mythology and rhetoric. Or not ... it's up to you.
dnewton3, I always keep an eye out for your posts as there is a lot of meat to them. I do have a question for you about DI engines...I noticed when I started changing the oil in my present car that fresh oil darkened very quickly and learned later that DI engines tend to produce soot. There is some worry that soot-laden oil may tend to lead to more engine wear, but I don't know if there is any real evidence for or against this supposition. Is there any evidence in your data that suggests that DI engines have higher wear rates than port injected or carbureted vehicles? Thanks for your contributions here and keep up the good work.
 
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MTL, CANADA
I agree with dnewton. You can run it for a full 10k miles, i would. I used to think 5k miles was the way to go but after doing UOAs, it made it clear that even 7500miles was no challenge for the oil in a regularly maintained well kept vehicle. I now go minimum 8k miles on oil.
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by dnewton3
Originally Posted by Deontologist
... should I consider changing the oil just before the trip? ... What do you think?
- Would you toss out a beer after only consuming half the bottle, for it's "cheap insurance" to just get another one?
Yes because warm beer has no value!
Drink faster wink
 
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13,229
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1/2 hr N.E. of Detroit
Originally Posted by Deontologist
I have a 2012 Lexus IS350, 2GR-FSE motor, calls for 5W-30. It has 115k miles on it, and it currently has 5500 miles on the oil and filter. I filled it with Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 and put an Amsoil Ea15k filter on the car. I'm about to take a 400 mile road trip tomorrow, should I consider changing the oil just before the trip? The motor does not seem to have burnt or leaked any oil in the last 5500 miles. I'm thinking that I should be good at least in terms of filtration. I guess the biggest concern would be whether the M1 AFE 0W-30 would hold up to an extended drain interval. I cannot find many answers about M1 0W-30 and extended drain intervals. What do you think? I do drive with an extremely heavy right foot, if that matters.
If it's not a DI engine, run it for 7K. That filter is Super Premium and could likely withstand good trapping for two OCIs. I would leave that filter on for another run. Have a safe trip and don't overspend, like we always do......lol In the old days, your Mobil-1 Vanilla was a 10K oil. But with the arrival of EPs, APs and whatever else P's, it's not anymore (my opinion).
 
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Charles City, Iowa
You notice that all syn oils say that they can go for long change intervals but they will not back it up. That is why they say to follow the engine manufacturers recommendations. They don't want to be liable for their product in the real world uses.
 
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I have run plain "Pennzzoil Yellow bottle" 10W-40 for over 12,000 miles in a Ford 4.6 liter (almost all highway) I think your 2012 Lexus IS350, 2GR-FSE motor will handle 12,000 miles on Mobil 1 ........ with EASE
 
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Fwiw... UOA of M1 AFE 0w30 at 7k miles. My guess is you could similarly get another 2k miles (at least) out of that oil. But I would balance that against the mfgs recommended drain interval. Somewhere in there is the sweet spot... https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2948065#Post2948065
Originally Posted by dnewton3
Conventional oils in most applications can easily go 10k miles. Syns should be able to go far past that.
+1, i use syn blends for the most part and the occasional dino from time to time if I get it super cheap and at 4~5k oci, they always look/sound fine. And except for summer where we road trip a lot, I'm doing mostly in city stop/go, extended idling driving. I stick to the 4~5 oci because a) I'm no longer under warranty and b) it doesn't stray to far from the "severe driving" drain interval. But I suspect that the blends I'm using could easily surpass 5k oci. The AW, antiOX, detergent/dispersants and higher quality oils of today's dino/SB's really make them an attractive alternative.
 
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1/2 hr N.E. of Detroit
Originally Posted by Linctex
I have run plain "Pennzzoil Yellow bottle" 10W-40 for over 12,000 miles in a Ford 4.6 liter (almost all highway) I think your 2012 Lexus IS350, 2GR-FSE motor will handle 12,000 miles on Mobil 1 ........ with EASE
They all "handle it" Linckie. Just be sure to buy a painting scrapper, to remove the sludge after many 12K conventional oil uses. We all can do that. The whole premise is to take care of your engine. Not to see how much you can get away with.
 
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6,156
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Buffalo, NY
Originally Posted by ad244
I kinda think the Castrol Extended is a better oil https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...;linkId=2eca1885f59ee0c40062073ffdb2a928 Maybe im wrong
And why would you think a majority Group III oil, and considers Group II+ to be "synthetic", with a thoroughly unimpressive pour point by a cheap company that doesn't offer rebates is "better". Mobil AP is also "better" but we're not talking extended drains here...
 

Patman

Staff member
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Oakville, Ontario
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
They all "handle it" Linckie. Just be sure to buy a painting scrapper, to remove the sludge after many 12K conventional oil uses. We all can do that. The whole premise is to take care of your engine. Not to see how much you can get away with.
You're being a bit dramatic but I do agree with what you say about not trying to see how much you can get away with. I want to take care of my engines, and that includes having the insides stay immaculately clean for a very long time too. I really doubt that 10-12k intervals with conventional oil is the right recipe for that one. (I only own one car that could use conventional oil anyhow, but for many reasons I still prefer to do one year oil changes with synthetic) In the case of my Corvette, synthetic is the only oil I can run and if I follow the oil life monitor it will not let me do anywhere near 10k intervals, let alone going beyond that. The OLM will time out at one year, but for those that I know that drive theirs daily (and don't store them in the winter) they've still found it won't go beyond about 8k at the most. I'm ok with that personally, it's a high performance direct injected engine, I don't have a problem springing for a synthetic oil change every 6-8k (especially since I'm doing it myself anyhow, so it's not like I'm paying inflated dealer prices). I want this engine to last 300k and beyond, and I don't want to have to tear down the engine earlier than normal because I was trying to find the upper limits of a synthetic oil. Any savings I would have gotten with the longer OCIs will quickly be erased if that happens.
 
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