Everyone please read my conclusions

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Joined
Apr 17, 2003
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Wimberley, Texas
From this site I have sifted through a massive amount of data. From everyone's opinions I have made this conclusion for my car:
Mobil 1 0w40
SynLube Oil Filter
6oz. maintenance dose of Auto Rx
Super Plug drain plug(magnetic)
Magnetic oil filter device(MagFilter)
Baldwin air filter

Change oil and filter every 6,000 miles if oil analysis allows
Change air filter every 24,000 miles (4 oil changes)
Chevron Supreme 93 gas and RxP Combustion Enhancer every other tank.
I already have the trans,o2 sensors,and everything else figured out.To 500,000 miles and beyond!
Thanks to everyone for their help!
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P.S. Did I mention my car is a Lamborghini Diablo?
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I don't know why you would put 6 oz of an additive in good synthetic oil
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....with every crankcase. You don't need it.

TO ALL: I AM NOT BASHING THAT ADDITIVE, I BELIEVE IT WORKS GREAT FOR CLEANING GRUBBY ENGINES....ENGINES THAT HAVE USED PETROLEUM AND HAVE NOT BEEN WELL MAINTAINED.
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I don't know anything about the SynLube filter. I'll have to do a search
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. I like the Idea of the Magnets though. My son's Cavalier has a magnet and his Iron was 15 over 8300 miles. Can't help wonder if it didn't help. Strange that it came stock (drainplug). Judging from the car we have some pretty exclusive clientel on this board
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Magnetic drain plugs are a great idea.

See URL below. Pic is a little decieving as the 'metal' looks like big bits but is not. Wiped with a rag and you realise its all microscopic.
web page
 
Several SAE studies show that most folks over service their air filters and increase wear to engine in the process. If you manual states 30K, as most do, then you are most likely safe to at least this mileage if not more.

The papers show some air filter are good to 100k miles for normal conditions.

HD operators understand this and actually change only on a pressure increase test. They have less cost and better protection to boot.

Until I read these studies, I was changing every 15K miles.
 
Sounds like a plan. I am running a 3oz maintenance dose. Based on what Terry and UOA's have said/showed, it works very well. Allows the oil to do its job without depleting the TBN so rapidly.

I change my air filter every 12-15k miles. There cheap, about $12 for a Puralator. Especially during the winter months with all the salt and sand on the roads, I like to change it a bit more frequently. I don't mind spending money on oil/filters etc.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Pablo:
I don't know why you would put 6 oz of an additive in good synthetic oil
dunno.gif
....with every crankcase. You don't need it.

TO ALL: I AM NOT BASHING THAT ADDITIVE, I BELIEVE IT WORKS GREAT FOR CLEANING GRUBBY ENGINES....ENGINES THAT HAVE USED PETROLEUM AND HAVE NOT BEEN WELL MAINTAINED.
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6oz of Auto-rx each oil change is not needed, but a 3oz dose works well, Terry Dyson has seen reduced engine wear by adding these small Auto-rx doses to any oil.
 
If you need Auto-rx or whatever added to your oil for whatever reason, then there's a problem with the oil you're using.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:
If you need Auto-rx or whatever added to your oil for whatever reason, then there's a problem with the oil you're using.

Not true. Like I said, Terry Dyson has proven that Auto-rx added in small doses will further lower the engine wear in any oil, by encapsulating the wear particles, keeping them from creating further wear.
 
I read a lot of posts about Terry's test results as proof for Auto-Rx's effectiveness and would like to look at them myself. Are they available somewhere on the internet? Thanks.
 
Heck, then we've all missed the boat! Put away the M-1 0-40, the GTX, forget Redline, forget HTHS, forget grade, forget moly...I'll just use .99/L convenience store oil 5-30 and add a healthy dose of auto-rx. Sounds like even ALL the oil companies have missed the boat. I've always said: why doesn't Frank simply make his own oil and we'll all use it instead of 'adding' something after the clean-up application(s)?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:
Heck, then we've all missed the boat! Put away the M-1 0-40, the GTX, forget Redline, forget HTHS, forget grade, forget moly...I'll just use .99/L convenience store oil 5-30 and add a healthy dose of auto-rx. Sounds like even ALL the oil companies have missed the boat. I've always said: why doesn't Frank simply make his own oil and we'll all use it instead of 'adding' something after the clean-up application(s)?

Adding Auto-rx to a crummy oil doesn't mean you'll end up with zero engine wear though. Find the best oil you can buy, then add the RX and you're good to go.

I'm very impressed with Auto-rx, it definitely worked wonders on cleaning out the engine in my 95 Firebird. I've got the before/after UOAs to prove it's reduced my engine wear a lot (wear numbers expressed in ppm per 1000 miles for easier comparison:


code:

before rx after rx





Aluminum 2.5 1.21

Copper 1.66 0.91

Iron 6.25 1.51

Lead 7.91 4.24

Tin 1.25 0.61


note: the first run was with SJ formula Maxlife, the after run with SL formula Maxlife, which has a considerably smaller amount of zinc,phosphorus, calcium and magnesium in it, so it's even more impressive that the engine showed less wear with this oil! A clean engine will show less wear. So if it can do this kind of work as a full cleanup dose, I have every confidence in it's abilities as a maintenance dose, especially if Terry says it works well like this.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:
What are these "wear particles"? Why isn't the filter catching them?

1) They're too small to be trapped by the filter media but they're still larger than the thickness of the oil film.

2) They stick in place and don't readily circulate in the oil.


Ken
 
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