EV Wrangler

Why do you need a manual transmission when you have 100% torque from beginning to the end? If not enough torque you can connect 2 motors together like the Prius CVT and have them run in the same direction (double torque) or opposite (double speed).
EVs generally run a ratio from the motor to the wheels of between roughly 7 and 10:1 so with typical diff ratios found on existing ICE cars you'd need another 2:1 from somewhere. A typical manual gearbox has that ratio between 2nd and 3rd, so is a convenient but inelegant and bulky solution. Otherwise there are small (planetary) reducers available. I was thinking if I converted a 4x4 with full-time 4WD like my Suzuki I could re-jig the shifter mechanism to use the low range reduction all the time, which is 2:1.
 
Actually, to be certain, electric motors decrease in torque and do not stay at 100% through the rpm range... they have an effective rpm limit and torque drops as it is approached. im at the edge of my understanding, but it’s basically tied to electromagnetic inductance - that it takes time for a coil of wire to build up and change the magnetic field, and once the rate (speed) of change needed is greater than the coils ability to shift, the power output drops. And conversely, if the coil accepts the pulse completely and saturates, it looks like a direct current short. Therefore there is a sweet spot, a pretty broad one albeit but still an operating window.

with Tesla’s and several others, this doesn’t show as an issue because there’s so much torque available from the massive motor and current capacity that gearing isnt needed. between the lines, it’s loosely stated in hybrid tech as one of the factors to where battery-only effectiveness is limited to an understood and designed-in speed transition to gas.
 
I think this is pretty awesome! I'd rock crawl an electric Jeep.

95% of the gas i use on our rock crawling trips is just idling around. Ill only put maybe 20 miles on in a whole weekend of it, but burn 3/4 of a tank of gas. Can't shut off / start 450 times because it doesn't always like to start back up. I have factory gearing and just a 2.72:1 transfer case so the torque converter does a lot of work. That's a lot of wasted fuel.

I bet an EV wouldn't use a lot of "fuel" at all rock crawling.
 
And you get regen on downhills. At a guess, based on some measurements on my own EV, regen recovers about 70% on the way down of what energy it took to get up the hill.
 
You must mean the same wet lead-acid 12V battery that's already present in the ICE versions? The Li-ion battery is well-protected, and of-course doesn't contain anything that could leak out.
I'm looking forward to seeing how this model works out in the hands of customers.
 
I think it's a neat concept. Instant torque at 0 RPM would be awesome for rock crawling! No slipping the clutch, no need for crazy reduction.
The dude at Truck King said the same thing. Said it was nice being able to hear things and the torque is instantaneous.
 
Why do you need a manual transmission when you have 100% torque from beginning to the end? If not enough torque you can connect 2 motors together like the Prius CVT and have them run in the same direction (double torque) or opposite (double speed).
Perhaps lower power drain when off-road (climbs and mud/sand) … ? We use gear boxes on industrial motors.
 
And you get regen on downhills. At a guess, based on some measurements on my own EV, regen recovers about 70% on the way down of what energy it took to get up the hill.
Regen is amazing … brakes on our hybrid seem to last forever … clean wheels … another thing EV’s will do is eliminate lots of nasty brake dust in the cities …
 
The dude at Truck King said the same thing. Said it was nice being able to hear things and the torque is instantaneous.

Didn't even think about hearing what's going on. But that's something nice too. Can hear if you're pushing rocks around or scraping something. I'm so used to having something loud off road that it's just going by sight and feel a lot of times.
 
Didn't even think about hearing what's going on. But that's something nice too. Can hear if you're pushing rocks around or scraping something. I'm so used to having something loud off road that it's just going by sight and feel a lot of times.
Heck … even love that finesse of my electric chainsaws … know if it’s about to bind before it does …
 
Generally speaking, useful regen in EVs diminishes to zero below about a fast walking speed because there isn't enough voltage generated off the motor. Some designs can draw battery power to bring the car to a controlled stop with the motor, what they call "one pedal driving" but I'd say all (when using the brake pedal) automatically revert to the disk brakes when regen is no longer useful at low speeds. Energy wise it's not a big deal either way and using the disk brakes occasionally does help avoid rust buildup on the disks.

The "integrated brake system" is probably the most technically-complicated part of an EV. It has to fake the feel of a conventional hydraulic brake pedal without actually applying the disk brakes, modulate electrical regen based on pedal pressure, and revert to the disks if the pedal is pushed past what regen can achieve in deceleration. I think the GM EV-1 was the first EV to have such a feature.

The 4Xe may be designed to allow low-range low speed control using just the main motor (in the ZF transmission) which would avoid the noise you'd hear when the disks engage.
 
Kinetic energy is 1/2 M V^2, basically if you take out all the high speed braking you take out the square of the speed's energy, low speed braking won't wear out the pad much because of this.

Also since this energy involves mass, if you double your weight you can reduce your minimum regen braking speed to 70% of before (0.7 square is 0.49). In the end they are all watts, and you do not want to go above or below the limit of your electronics and batteries.
 
Assuming the battery is down low, while liquid leakage wouldn’t be a thing, puncture/intrusion would be, and that would/could be 39 seconds to slag. wrangler engineers have remained surprising faithful to function, so I’d give good odds that they include this in the design, plus the option of aftermarket, but for rock crawling I’d think under-battery armor would be 100% required. I’ve never been a die hard off-road guy but I’m absolutely not 0%, and even with light (by my thinking) exploring I’ve damaged a fuel tank and poked a hole right through a frame rail. Under-battery armor ftw.
 
Assuming ...
Why assume when Google can answer that in seconds :)
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U guys can have them....There is way too much stuff low for my liking, I think stuff is going to get messed up. And any true offroader is gonna have a hard time doing anything themselves as most do....or modding it. IMO this is for the pavement Jeepers.
 
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