Ester-based oil additives?

[Oro_O]

I am trying to school myself on ester-based oil additives/cleaners, which is what I gather Auto-RX is primarily. In my thinking (which could be wrong), the idea of a leave-in cleaner is very attractive compared to harsher instant flush compounds. Are there other similar products out there? Would using a high % ester-based oil achieve the same thing over time? Or are there certain types of esters that provide the solvency, and those are not what is found in typical engine oil? I'm sure there must be old discussions on this subject, but I've been unable to get a clear answer or find a relevant thread.

 

[TheKracken]

I was literally just looking into this same topic and would also like to know more. Maybe running 1 quart of a ester based oil like RLI or Red Line along with your other oil could help a lot with cleaning...and cheaper than ARX

 

[ltslimjim]

Lubegard's Engine Oil Protectant has them. I use this product on my oil changes. Lubegard Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: TheKracken

I was literally just looking into this same topic and would also like to know more. Maybe running 1 quart of a ester based oil like RLI or Red Line along with your other oil could help a lot with cleaning...and cheaper than ARX

Don't do it. Assuming you are using a quality oil, everything is in the package that you need.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim

Lubegard's Engine Oil Protectant has them. I use this product on my oil changes. "LUBEGARD® ENGINE OIL PROTECTANT contains Liquid Wax Ester (LXE®) Technology, the lubrication system of the future."

The reminds me of the 1980's - when people said "never use Pennzoil because it contains wax and causes sludge"!

 

[BrocLuno]

Lots of oils contain wax. So what ... AFAIK, Auto-RX has some animal fats in it that are completely different from most oil. That's the point. Cleaning often requires a change in chemistry for anything to happen. The slowest and easiest, most gentle way to clean an older engine is to rotate through oils of target viscosity with wholly differing add paks. Sodium based, magnesium based, etc. The next best way is BG109 (EPR), a full can per oil change at around 5,000 miles and a good oversized filter to catch the stuff that come loose over time. The most aggressive way is with KREEN from Kano Labs. 8 oz or bigger dose and a 2,000 mile oil change using Super Tech. Also use oversized filter as stuff will be coming loose ...

 

[TheKracken]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno

Lots of oils contain wax. So what ... AFAIK, Auto-RX has some animal fats in it that are completely different from most oil. That's the point. Cleaning often requires a change in chemistry for anything to happen. The slowest and easiest, most gentle way to clean an older engine is to rotate through oils of target viscosity with wholly differing add paks. Sodium based, magnesium based, etc. The next best way is BG109 (EPR), a full can per oil change at around 5,000 miles and a good oversized filter to catch the stuff that come loose over time. The most aggressive way is with KREEN from Kano Labs. 8 oz or bigger dose and a 2,000 mile oil change using Super Tech. Also use oversized filter as stuff will be coming loose ...

Do you know if they sell kreen on amazon? I cant seem to find it...so I use amsoil flush but I want something more aggressive for sure. Also, are HDEO's still known for really good cleaning? I have lots of m1 tdt 5w40 to use and I really want to clean out the sienna and truck. I was planning to cycle through different types of oil to clean as well. Using HDEO first then a ester based oil and then pennzoil gtl ultra for the last cleaning.

 

[MolaKule]

Auto-RX is an ester made of Fatty acids derived from lanolin. The ester is made by reacting that fatty acid with pentaerythritol (a special alcohol) to form the ester. So the result is a POE or polyol ester. The LubeGard LXE is an ester made of Fatty acids derived from rapeseed. The ester is made by reacting that fatty acid with a special alcohol to form the ester.

Originally Posted By: tig1

...Assuming you are using a quality oil, everything is in the package that you need.

True

 

[Oro_O]

Is the Lubegard XLE mostly ester? I had not heard of that before this thread - though I knew of the "red" version and have used it in the past. I read as much as I could about it, but was unclear if that was a majority or small amount of the product. In quart containers, it makes a more economical approach than $40 for 12 oz. of ARX. Based on the description, it sounds like the two products should have similar efficacy, though the LubeGard product does not appear to be marketed in the same way. I have a vehicle with a specific oil coking issue that years of HDEO and M1 use will not address. This is not for prophylactic use or because I think quality oils are inadequate in general.

 

[ltslimjim]

Well, some engine models have specific issues that no lube will fix, but could perhaps minimize the effects of in a best case scenario. You may need to swap to a high mileage oil like MaxLife, they do have a fully synthetic version. Lubegard is just an additive for boosting some of the crankcase fill. I primarily use it for fun at this point; no harm no foul. Potential MPG gains of course are probably negated by price point somewhat. It does have a bit of moly. Someone did a VOA, linked here: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3951216/1 It appears to be able to give some moly, calcium, phosphorus a nice shot and 3.7 TBN in an additive isn't bad. It's not meant to replace quarts of oil in the sump. I'm not sure if it's the base oil itself being esters and it mixed with another carrier or what, though. Regardless, sometimes you can find the 32oz for a good price on Amazon. I got this following the dosage recommendations I can basically get 3 OCI uses out of it: https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-40902-Tech-Engine-Protectant/dp/B006HI8HYA/ Sometimes it's priced better in this bottle (different name same product): https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-30916-Heavy-Engine-Protectant/dp/B006HI8H90/

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim

Well, some engine models have specific issues that no lube will fix, but could perhaps minimize the effects of in a best case scenario. You may need to swap to a high mileage oil like MaxLife, they do have a fully synthetic version.

Yes, the FS Maxlife HM in 10w-30 looks like a very good oil; I use M1 HM 10w-30 in my vehicles so oil quality is not an issue. But those oils can't clean everything so I was looking to take advantage of the unique properties esters bring to the table.

 

[MotoTribologist]

Diesters provide more solvency that polyol esters, but they aren't as stable (more volatile). I'm pretty sure polyol esters are the more commonly used in PCMO due to their stability and relatively good solvency. That being said, I think Brocluno's method of rotating through quality products with differing detergent chemistry types would leave your machine pretty [censored]'n'span clean if you are concerned the M1 you're already using isn't doing that already.

 

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3951216/1 [url=Ithttps://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-40902-Tech-Engine-Protectant/dp/B006HI8HYA/][url=Ithttps://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-40902-Tech-Engine-Protectant/dp/B006HI8HYA/][url=Ithttps://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-40902-Tech-Engine-Protectant/dp/B006HI8HYA/]Ithttps://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-40902-Tech-Engine-Protectant/dp/B006HI8HYA/[/url][/url][/url] Sometimes it's priced better in this bottle (different name same product): https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-30916-Heavy-Engine-Protectant/dp/B006HI8H90/

Are these 2 really the same product? I'm not doubting you Slim but I'm wondering why LG would use 2 different SKUs and call it something slightly different if they are the exact same?

 

[ltslimjim]

I don't have it on hand but I recall someone reputable on the boards sharing what Lubegard responded with to this very question of what the difference was. It was simply marketing, IIRC. Probably one of the older LG threads a few years ago. It was one of those copy/paste email replies from a company. However, lately I've noticed the regular is a better price.

 

[ltslimjim]

I found it: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2687190/Re:_Lubegard_Bio-tech_Regular_#Post2687190

 

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim

I found it: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2687190/Re:_Lubegard_Bio-tech_Regular_#Post2687190

Thanks Slim....I'm still wondering if the HD version is more concentrated?...

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: pbm

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim

I found it: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2687190/Re:_Lubegard_Bio-tech_Regular_#Post2687190

Thanks Slim....I'm still wondering if the HD version is more concentrated?...

It seems to be so actually from other comments I came across re-reading older threads. Same ingredients but more concentrated.

 

[UG_Passat]

Renewable Lubes has an additive pack, BioSyn Xtra, that uses their Stabilized HOBS ester base oil.

 

[steve20]

I use LG Biotech in some 'problem' vehicles and fully endorse their claims of quieting the motor down. OP: if you are going to use any additive I would be using the least expensive HDEO or SN motor oil, like SuperTech or Travellers, etc. I do not think the extra cost of a good synthetic is worth it when you are using any additive. LG's advertising leaves much to be desired: 1. LG states it has no solid additives like moly-DTC, but it does contain a bucketful of the tri-nuclear-moly, which is the most soluble form of moly, and is most desired. The product description leads one to believe there is no moly in it IMO 2. in the beginning of the product description, LG states it is fully compatible with other API certified oils, SE, SF, SG, etc however they list API SI, which to my knowledge NEVER existed. They probably meant to say SH instead 3. IMO they should re-vamp the product description as it contains pictures of quarts of oil which are at least 5 years old. Steve

 

[ltslimjim]

^^^Agreed. However, despite having moly, I don't know if Tri-nuclear or not.