Engine protection levels in oil brands

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I am wondering, are there different levels of internal engine component protection with different types of the same weight of oil? That is to say, would a good quality oil like Pennzoil Conventional or Quaker State conventional provide a "cushier" and more enhanced protection for internal metal parts, than the level of internal protection and buffering provided by a different but still a good quality oil, like Valvoline or maybe the similar Napa or CQ house brand equivalent? And which is better in these hot summer temps? Sorry if this seems like a dumb question.
 
Possibly. The question is, how would you know?

If you're trying to decide on an oil for your car, any oil should be fine as long as it meets the specs your car calls for. The only exception might be if you're using your car near, at, or beyond the extremes of what it was designed for.
 
API SM/SN, ILSAC GF-4/GF-5, ACEA Ax/Bx all specify a minimum level of engine protection.

API SN, ILSAC GF-5, and ACEA A5/B5 provide the highest protection levels.

If you're wanting to compare two oils with the same API, ILSAC, and ACEA ratings, that will be time consuming and expensive.
 
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Originally Posted By: OldCowboy
API SM/SN, ILSAC GF-4/GF-5, ACEA Ax/Bx all specify a minimum level of engine protection.

API SN, ILSAC GF-5, and ACEA A5/B5 provide the highest protection levels.

...of all the standards listed.
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There are other specs that are a lot tougher.


Originally Posted By: OldCowboy
If you're wanting to compare two oils with the same API, ILSAC, and ACEA ratings, that will be time consuming and expensive.

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The major difference between "house brand" and "name brand" is that the house brands seem to *just* meet the specs, whereas the name brands seem to exceed them.

I am currently running Napa Synthetic 5w30 in my Mirage. My Subaru also specs 5w30, but there's no way I'd run it in that application. The Mirage is easy on oil - the Subaru isn't, and there's no way I'd trust a turbocharged engine to cheap synthetic (though I do trust it to $1.49/gal Rotella T 15w40... figures).

Any oil that meets the specs will *probably* protect your engine unless you're working it hard and getting the oil temps up. For some of us probably just isn't good enough.

That's where Redline and RLI come in.
 
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Originally Posted By: poiuy223
Isn't a lot of the base oils the same but companies just add in their own additives?


Yes and no.

Exxon Mobile offers seven different synthetic base stocks. The other major oil suppliers have similar number and diversity of base stocks. So there is an almost infinite number of combinations that a blender can put together with an equally broad spectrum of additives.
 
I was searching through the used oil analysis section last night,and Supertech had some of the lowest wear numbers. Is it still a Shell product? I read that on a Ford forum.
 
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I dunno, with all the 300K engines we read about using whatever oil, it looks like there just needs to be some sort of API oil (or equivalent) between the moving parts.

If I look at all the wear metals in all the used oil that's been analyzed and posted here or somewhere on the Web, I get the impression that Valvoline and Pennzoil, and maybe Amsoil and a few others synthetics look the among the best. Does that mean the engines will outlast engines with other oils? I'm skeptical, but I do feel a little better using one of the above oils or a good name brand dino.
Personally, I stay away from Mobil 1 except for the EP, but I know many, many people have great success with it in the real world.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I was searching through the used oil analysis section last night,and Supertech had some of the lowest wear numbers. Is it still a Shell product? I read that on a Ford forum.


Supertech suppliers are regional I believe, in some areas it's SOPUS, in other areas (like mine) it's WPP. XOM supplies some areas too, IIRC.

Lowest wear numbers in a used oil analysis doesn't necessarily mean lower engine wear rates.
 
Originally Posted By: JRed
The major difference between "house brand" and "name brand" is that the house brands seem to *just* meet the specs, whereas the name brands seem to exceed them.

How do you know this? It's quite plausible, but I'd like to know.
 
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
My apologies for asking, but what is RLI?

Renewable Lubricants, Inc. American company that makes products from renewable resources that perform like top-shelf synthetics.
 
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