Engine Overhaul

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A few changes here and there
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Using NDC bearings instead of Federal-Mogual and Rock pistons and rings......... Never heard of them
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JB thanks for the tip on the Red Line assembly lube that stuff is great.

Still undecided on what oil to go with. The Mains oil clearance ended up at 0.002 which is the high end of Toyota tollerence would of liked less
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Actually thinking of going Schaeffers
 
quote:

Originally posted by QuadDriver:

quote:

Originally posted by Ken42:
QuadDriver does this hold true even for a rebuilt engine? Cause of the wider tolerences?

well if you used the same specs and clearances...then yes. there is a ton of expansion and uneven expansion in those motors, my experience has shown that while pressure holds up well (bearing clearances), on 5/10-30 oils they drink and drink long - we are talking a quart a gas tank, yet when you run the 20-50 consumption returns to normal. Im going from hazy memory, but when I last looked at an older toy manual, I think one of the weights was 25-50 which I dont think is even available in the US. your manual should give you the correct weight for this time of year.. Dont beleive the horror stories about syn oils for example not letting an engine break in. Any metal that is gonna get knocked off in mass quantities is gonna get knocked off in the next few miles - that is why that 1000 mile interval is important and since its so short - use cheap stuff. and after that keep an eye on consumption....oil usage will depend on how fast the rings wear in.

helpful rebuilding tip: when inserting the piston/rod assembly into the block, cut a 2L bottle or milk jug in two and fill with motor oil, give eash piston a good dunk before you put it in. this will keep the rings from sticking and will lube the piston walls well those first few critical rpms.


Well the part about it drinking lots of oil is not holding true. I ran Mobil DC 10W/30 for 229 miles with some consumption then Pennzoil 10W/30 for 783 miles with little consumption and it is now chewing on Mobil 1 10W/30 with a quart of RL same weight and hardly any usage at all
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quote:

Originally posted by dickwells:
Seems like I have heard that used engines from Japan are available real cheap because of regulations over there. You might check that out. On second thought I guess you already have the engine but others might read this. Good Luck, RW

Do not be fooled by these engines. It is like getting a 30K mileage engine but the actual hours on it are through the roof. Most of Japan is like New York City driving, you do not go far but stay stuck idling in traffic for hours.

Hootbro
 
quote:

Originally posted by Hootbro:

quote:

Originally posted by dickwells:
Seems like I have heard that used engines from Japan are available real cheap because of regulations over there. You might check that out. On second thought I guess you already have the engine but others might read this. Good Luck, RW

Do not be fooled by these engines. It is like getting a 30K mileage engine but the actual hours on it are through the roof. Most of Japan is like New York City driving, you do not go far but stay stuck idling in traffic for hours.

Hootbro


personal experience says avoid these 30K japan engines like the plague......
 
When you fire it up for the first time you must keep the RPM's above 2000 for first 20 minutes. Usualy you use a 30Wt. like 5W30 or 10W30. If you use an extreme presure assembly lube you have to drain the oil and change the filter after this 20 minute run. The additives in most assembly lubes is in the form of a solid and it will plug up the filter. Usualy I use a cheap oil like Walmarts Tech 2000 5W30. After the filter is changed and the oil drained. I would refil with Delo 15W40 if you are in a warm climate. If it is a cold climate and winter is close at hand a solid 10W30 like Havoline,Chevron Supreme,Penzoil etc will do just fine.

In the old days 20W50 was common for most Toyota engines down to 15F I belive. I think you can get a better oil in the form of a HDEO like Delvac 1300 or Delo 400 in 15W40 if temps permit.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
When you fire it up for the first time you must keep the RPM's above 2000 for first 20 minutes.

JB, my understanding is that's for the benefit of the lifters. Is there any need to do that if you have roller lifters?
 
I lived in Japan for 5 years do know what cars go thru there and it is worse then you can ever imagine. And then some.
As JB said I did use Red Line assembly lube that stuff is great. It did however make a mess of my first UOA on the engine.

P.S why is everybody recommending a heavy oil when the cap and book clearly say to use 10W/30 oil?

Ken
 
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