Hi.
A synthetic oil doesn't mean better wear protection. It has nothing to do with ZDDP. The API sets the limit for ZDDP, and the trend we see is that as emissions regulations tighten, emissions equipment tighten. ZDDP is not conducive to long emission equipment life. ZDDP is getting lower and lower in concentration.
So, an API SM rated, and now SN rated, oil, regardless if its synthetic or not, won't necessarily have a higher ZDDP you are looking for. Synthetics provide two significant benefits: longer oil drains due to higher amounts of detergents, and better flowability at lower temperatures due to higher base stock viscosity index number.
However, that was a big advantage in the past. Now, mineral oils are being refined to such a great extent with improvements in molecular chemistr and engineering that they compare favorably against synthetics.
"Burn off" has nothing to do with synthetic or mineral base. If an oil reaches a high enough temperature, its flash point, it will burn regardless. However, since the molecules in synthetics are created to be identical as much as possible, they can resist burn off better. Usually. However, like I said, mineral oils are improving. It's best to compare data sheets for yourself to see the attitributes of each.
It is very rare for a consumer car to reach operating conditions that will turn this into a significant advantage so it's not significant in my opinion. Race vehicles are completely different. If people think that their super/turbo/high revving engines are reaching this limit, that's probably something along the lines of peace of mind. Every car is different. I just want you to be informed so you know what's the options for you out there.
With a synthetic, you will usually see that longer drains and better cold starting are possible.
Back to your original question. VR-1 is good oil. I looked at their data sheet. Lots of (as expected) marketing in there. It's not as significant as you would believe it to be. A racing oil that they said is good enough for consumers? Sorry that doesn't exist. A race oil has different conditions required. Maximum horsepower. We don't really care if the engine is clean or not. They're rebuilt so often anyways. A passenger car? Reliability and longevity are paramount. More detergents. More viscosity index improvers. More polymerization. Racing oil = passenger oil? No way in the universe. It also claims to meet API SM? SL? standards? And they said increased ZDDP? It's miniscule. There is a limit the API sets. If it meets SM, but with "increased ZDDP" we're talking this:
"higher than the average of other products, but at the limit the API sets"
If I offend anyone about VR-1 or if you work for Valvoline and think I am destroying your product, my intention is not to do that but to explain what is going on to create a better educated consumer.
But as a motorsports engineer, haha we do NOT use off the shelf oil. It simply doesn't meet the demands. I don't know if other teams use it or not, but I know for a fact that our oil is blended to our specifications. Detergents aren't high on the list. But of course it can never meet API standards. haha
You can try different oils. None will destroy your engine or make it run bad. As long as you use the correct viscosity you should be fine. There is no wonder oil...you should try different types. ENJOY THE DRIVE WHEN YOU'RE EXPERIMENTING RATHER THAN STRESS OVER OIL TYPES. the S800 is a classic.
I have a sportbike that spends a lot of time in the stratospheric part of the rev range (~13,000 rpm). It has 20,000+ miles on it. About a quarter of that is on the track. I just use a diesel oil such as Rotella T, Delvac 1300, Delo, etc etc. It has a similar valvetrain you described. I do oil analysis of them. Everything is always looking normal at 3000 to 5000 mile oil changes. Important to note: diesel oil is also regulated under CJ classification. There are different requirements. Thankfully, ZDDP is still at adequate levels. But remember, higher ZDDP isn't a wonder additive either. If a valvetrain will wear, it will wear regardless.
My NSX doesn't have a lot of miles on it, but I just use a regular 5W-30. It provides more than enough protection for the streets. I change it at 5000 miles.
