Ended up buying a 2003 Accord EX as commuter car

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Originally Posted By: fdcg27

Those are also some of the nicest alloys Honda ever put on a car.

I personally love the 06-07 V6 Accord rims. I also personally love the entire 06-07 body style (sedan)
 
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
My wife has a 2006 Accord SE with 5 speed...
Does the 2003 and 2006 have the same 4 cylinder engine?




I believe the engine is the same.

It is a really fun car to drive. I read up on some things and it appears the creaky clutch is a well known issue. I think the fix is just to add some lithium grease to quiet it down and do it again when it acts up.

The clutch does seem to engage a little low (really close to the floor) is there an adjustment for that?


Goose
 
Originally Posted By: Blue_Goose


The clutch does seem to engage a little low (really close to the floor) is there an adjustment for that?


Goose


I've the 06 V6 6MT Coupe and the engagement point seem too far out. I'd like to know if there is adjustment, too.
 
It's the slave cylinder that makes the creaky noise when you use the clutch. Honda replaced mine and it stopped the noise for a while. When it returned I just lived with it. There is no height adjustment with the hydraulic clutch.
 
Originally Posted By: RTexasF
It's the slave cylinder that makes the creaky noise when you use the clutch. Honda replaced mine and it stopped the noise for a while. When it returned I just lived with it. There is no height adjustment with the hydraulic clutch.


Hmm ok thanks for the info...well the release point is real low..like maybe a few inches....this is not adjustable? Seems really low but I haven't driven a stick on a regular basis since a Focus in 2003

Goose
 
i test drove an 05 with the manual and fell in love. i didnt end up buying it but of the few manuals i've used that one felt great. enjoy the car!
 
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
i test drove an 05 with the manual and fell in love. i didnt end up buying it but of the few manuals i've used that one felt great. enjoy the car!


I love the stick in this car..makes it a lot of fun to drive
smile.gif



Goose
 
Nice buy on that Accord. Honda has long been known for very good chassis tuning, especially at the price point for which they sell. The K24 engine will last almost literally forever. You can check the valve adjustment in your garage in about 30 minutes (after you let it cool overnight of course). The K24 is very easy to service, very easy to maintain, very enjoyable to own. I don't know if your Accord has a Maintenance Minder on it, but that engine is good for 5k mile OCIs on conventional easy (even 7,500 or 10,000 with UOAs). If you prefer synthetic, you can most certainly go 7,500-10,000 miles. Still, I'd be more comfortable with a UOA to confirm. There are plenty of UOAs on these engines in the UOA forum.

As far as valve/engine clatter when cold, I've found that Mobil 1 0W-20 produces the LEAST amount of noise, cold and hot. Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 has been the LOUDEST in the engine for me (K24 in a '08 CR-V). I will try PYB 5W-20 next, but if I don't care for that, I'm going back to M1 0W-20.

As you have discovered, the K24 is an excellent engine, even with the tamer "economy" style VTEC. Plenty of power at most engine speeds. Even without the "power" style VTEC, power picks up nicely as you move through the engine's midrange, while still providing enough torque down low so you don't have to keep downshifting. It's a great motor, and the fact that the K-series is still used today demonstrates how good it really was when it was first introduced in 2001.

If you adjust or check the valves yourself, I'd love to see a picture of the valvetrain with the cylinder head cover removed. Did you say you have a detailed service history with this one or not?
 
If the clutch engagement is close to the floor then it is on the way out. It may run for ages like that or give way without warning.
 
yep, good car..owned mine since new 163k ago everything original except a o2, pads and a couple exhaust bolts..had a UOA..always use cheapest 5/20 at 7,500 and 15,000 $2.00 filter, uses less than a quart per oci today. I do the 3qt. trans and power steering fluid refresh @30k.

this car has never hit anything even a curb, if I've floored it once or twice a year (maybe), still tracks down the road like a new car, never missed a beat or shift, fact I'm considering a new set of 90k Michelin Defenders soon..the only thing lacking is the older style and some small parking lot dings and scrapes..

stellar value.
 
wanted to mention...couple months ago, just for S&G I blew the tires up to 38 and filled to the neck so I could see the fuel level...drove to my vac home one way 250 miles in neutral wind alone and next to no load and did consecutive 39.6 and 40.2 mpg after refilling to the neck..half the trip was @65mph the other at 58-60..never let the tach above 2400 or lower on shifts. I read this on another Accord forum and had to try myself.

I otherwise make this 500 mi. trip every w/e at 75/65 30psi and do 32-35 mpg.

not bad imo for 160k on the unit.
 
Originally Posted By: RTexasF
If the clutch engagement is close to the floor then it is on the way out. It may run for ages like that or give way without warning.


Aw rats..well I figured as much lol

Ballpark on having that done? My guess is north of 1K



Goose
 
Yep. Do the clutch test to see if it is starting to slip.
A Honda clutch should last 250K miles if the car was driven normally without any abuse.
 
Wait till engine is fully warmed up, set the parking brake, put the trans in 5th gear and very slowly let the clutch out. If the clutch is slipping the engine will not stall.
 
Dude, no offense intended, but by the time a clutch is bad enough to fail that test it's well beyond shot. You're checking for slippage at idle. A clutch that slips at WOT is garbage.
 
A better test would be:
-Driving along in second gear, stabilise speed at around 3000 to 3500 RPMs.
-Mash the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it there. When you feel the floor, use your left foot to mash the brake pedal down all the way.

If the car doesn't stop or the engine doesn't stall, either the clutch is shot or the brakes are. You'll know which.
 
And if the clutch was not slipping before, that test will sure make it slip now!

Leave it alone. You will *know* when the clutch is slipping. But before that happens, check the adjustment at the pedal (assuming it is hydraulic) or at the fork (if it is mechanical). If there is at least an inch of free play at the top, there is nothing to adjust. If it is less, then adjust it.
 
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