EGR Faulty? Syptoms/Problems.???

Status
Not open for further replies.
Okay heres an update guys...
I changed all that I listed before (Wires, plugs, coil, injector, fuel rail, fuel rail wiring harness, throttle position sensor, map sensor, valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, oil and filter) I also just recently (Yesterday changed the EGR and gasket as well as the back pressure pipe gaskets) I feel as if I have more power, the idle has gone down a lot from rough to very mild to the point were it almost feels normal for an older van. However I used a code scanner to scan for codes and it fixed the P0403 (EGR failure) code so I cleared it and it not return. I also still had the P0304 (misfire #4) code and I tried to clear that. The check engine light went off for a good 3-4 hours. Then while in traffic the idle would get really low and the check engine light would blink a couple times and go off. This did this about 3-4 times and then stayed off. About 2 hours later after having the car running for a few hours the MIL came but on but this time steady. Anyone know what this means or what direction Im heading in???
I heard if I have a clogged exhaust/cat the van would be sluggish. I actually have more get up and go power, more pep and I have good acceleration (before EGR change I had lack of acceleration)
I have no clue what to do or where to turn. Moneys tight sand state inspection is coming up in may. Thanks guys.
 
Replacing all those parts should make it run better.
It does not negate any other problems.
The EGR is failing a self test . You have to dive in to the system more.
The cat? Still could be a problem, not real likely, though.
 
I think based on your misfire code and the fact that it is extremely sluggish your should concentrate on your misfire on cylinder 4. even if the EGR was stuck wide open, which it does not seem to be, it would not cause it to be that sluggish. Listen to the computer, it is a misfire code, not an EGR code.

EDIT: Whoops, I didn't see that you originally had a P0403 code. Guess I'm dylsexic. Still, concentrate on the misfire code.
 
Last edited:
if you read my last post it has the update of what i changed and the current status. Even after changing all of the obvious I still have a misfire cylinder 4. I dont know what else to do. after changing all the parts the van does run better and drive better not sluggish anymore. I still have the code though even after clearing it came back.
 
I just cleared the codes and let the van run. It runs with no light or code and then the light starts to flash. When I fetch the codes I get a P0304 code with two small "p's" which look like a forward and a reversed p. I guess it means code p0304 pending?
In idle the light flashes and the pending code comes up, while in drive or reverse the light goes off. still a mild idle. Besides what I have done already does anyone else know what else I can do to correct this cylinder 4 misfire? my last 3 posts are the most recent updates. Thanks and sorry to bother everyone Im just at a loss and I dont know what else to do.
I cant afford to go to a mechanic and dish out a couple hundred bucks.
 
The flashing light indicates that the engine is actively misfiring - meaning that the computer is detecting a misfire at that moment.

Coil packs commonly go bad on those vehicles. Also the boot going from the coil pack to the spark plug can 'leak'. You can check the coil pack by pulling the coil pack out of the spark plug hole and sticking your pinky finger into the end of the boot. Have a friend start the engine. If you get shocked, the coil is working.

OK, just kidding, don't do that. You can stick an old spark plug into the boot and lay it on a metal part of the engine. If it sparks while the engine is running, you know the coil is firing.
 
Originally Posted By: JMac101
Hey everyone.
I noticed my van running and idling really rough. I checked the EGR valve and at idle I noticed that the valve it self shakes and the the part that does the opening and closing jumps up and down causes different idle speeds. I tried sticking a scre driver in the valve and forcing it one way and it makes the van stall to the point where it is about to die and then when I release the van comes back and continues to run. At lower speeds I also have experienced a flashing check engine light. At high speeds the car runs great with awesome gas mileage, however it is sluggish and there is no get up, it takes like quarter a mile to get up to 60 mph. Anyone think the EGR could be back? Anybody know the symptoms of a bad or faulty EGR?


You've tried just about everything I could think of. I had a rough idle and a surge in an older Ford engine, after a tune up, IAC, TPS and some sensors I still had the same problem. EGR was swapped out too. My cat was not plugged.

After driving myself nuts, and a few other people including 2 mechanics. I cleaned the fuel injectors via the rail, and things improved greatly. It might be worth a shot since you've tried just about everything else. In my case I had no codes so I was really in the dark.
 
i changed the fuel injectors and rail already 2 times. Could it be something internal? something blocked, clogged?
I did just about everything external and about $600 later still no go. The light was flashing this morning and then came on solid after about a 15 minute drive. I noticed that the MIL would blink over 300 times while in park at idle but once in drive it would go off, does that mean anything?
After about 10 miniutes the light started to blink while driving and then came on solid.
Seems like there maybe a leak somewhere and that the pressure builds up at idle. ????
 
I know you said you can't afford to take it to a mechanic but you've already blown tons of money on parts that didn't fix it. Wouldn't it be cheaper to have a professional diagnose it in the long run?
 
yes your right, but if I take it to a mechanic I need like $500-$1000 upfront. Im living paycheck to paycheck right now and dont have the money upfront. I can buy $40 part here and a $100 part there. I get what your saying though.
I was just thinking, when I replaced the fuel injectors with a set of decent used injectors the check engine light and code went away for about 3 days and the motor was running strong. Then the code came back. You think maybe there could have been debri in the fuel line or rail and it pushed into injector 4? maybe carbon build up? and when I replaced it, it was a temp fix and then the used one I replaced it with got clogged as well? When I removed the EGR and back pressure pipe they were both loaded with carbon and I have been running lucas fuel line cleaner through the gas do you think maybe it broke some stuff up and that clogged the injector?
Im thinking Im gonna do what you suggested and take it to midas and see if I can get them to work on it for under $300 or so.
I dont know why but I have a feeling it could be the injector since it was clogged and i swapped it out with another used injector.
 
I am not sure why you think you would need $500 - $1000 up front for diagnosis. It should take a competent tech more than an hour or two to diagnose so that should be about $200 max for the diagnosis. Then you could do the repair yourself. I would definitely say don't bring it to Midas. Of course, it boils down to the education and experience of the individual tech diagnosing the car but in general Midas techs are low paid and unqualified. I don't think your injectors are clogged, that would be really unlikely.
 
Originally Posted By: JMac101
yes your right, but if I take it to a mechanic I need like $500-$1000 upfront. Im living paycheck to paycheck right now and dont have the money upfront. I can buy $40 part here and a $100 part there. I get what your saying though.
I was just thinking, when I replaced the fuel injectors with a set of decent used injectors the check engine light and code went away for about 3 days and the motor was running strong. Then the code came back. You think maybe there could have been debri in the fuel line or rail and it pushed into injector 4? maybe carbon build up? and when I replaced it, it was a temp fix and then the used one I replaced it with got clogged as well? When I removed the EGR and back pressure pipe they were both loaded with carbon and I have been running lucas fuel line cleaner through the gas do you think maybe it broke some stuff up and that clogged the injector?
Im thinking Im gonna do what you suggested and take it to midas and see if I can get them to work on it for under $300 or so.
I dont know why but I have a feeling it could be the injector since it was clogged and i swapped it out with another used injector.


Anything is possible. You say you swapped used injectors. It might pay to send the old injectors to our site sponsor and have them reconditioned. They will be tested and to spec when you get them back. My problem drove me and two mechanics nuts, and it was an injector issue!
 
Hey I swapped out injector 4 felt more power and the light stayed off for a good 3 hours. Then it returned with the same code. Anyone know of something else that could cause a P0304 code besides what I changed?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

B
  • Locked
EGR Trouble
Replies
4
Views
923
StevieC
mrsilv04
  • Locked
2007 Town and Country 3.8 - EGR valve
Replies
6
Views
3K
johnsmellsalot
C
  • Locked
EGR valve problem
Replies
3
Views
1K
cchase
O
  • Locked
EGR and braking
Replies
4
Views
3K
otis24
J
  • Locked
Can a Faulty Computer Set a P0304 Misfire Code?
Replies
14
Views
10K
JMac101
Back
Top Bottom