Easiest way to clean an engine? (Trying to avoid Auto-RX)

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undummy and fellow oil sniffers; Semantics aside, call Auto-RX whatever you wish but this bio based chemistry affects the host oil in which it "travels" in NO meaningful, measureable way.

What it does is clean engine internals, both metals and polymer seals, "in situ" while being inert to the host lubricant.

This is a signficant observation and sets it apart from all other "additives" that blend,enhance or degrade the host lubricant.

The benefit to the host lubricant when using Auto-RX is that the lubricant can lubricate, cool, and remain in design Viscosity and is not chemically
depleted due to cleaning or dispersing.

I promote products that work and are a good value and effective tools for my analysis customers.

Auto-RX is definitely one of those products.

Remember I make money testing lubricants not selling ANY lubricant product.


The "liquid filter" aspect of the Auto-RX dispersing capability is another angle I have alluded to on this site and one that is not fully explored but bears continued attention.

[ May 02, 2003, 09:07 PM: Message edited by: Terry ]
 
Terry,
If one had a slight coolant leak problem,would Auto-Rx be beneficial in the "liquid-filter" mode? Clean glycol sludge? I'm running Lube Control in VERY short oil drain intervals in my Dodge V-10 'till I have the source of the leak fixed.
What's better?
dunno.gif

Mark
 
First of all any Glycol leak in an engine is akin to playing with a loaded gun as we have discussed here many times.

Auto- RX was shown in testing (teardown analysis)done during the early development phase to be effective at cleaning the Glycol residue from bearings and inhibit the resulting acidic damage to internals. See the Auto-RX website for pix of a engine that had severe coolant damage Auto-RX cleaned in operation.

LC is effective at doing the same work but must be used carefully as it is a inhibited solvent and is petroleum based, meaning it will be destroyed if left in the glycol environment over time. The fact that LC is added in booster levels throughout the drain interval helps recharge the beneficial solvency.
In your case, as you are my analysis customer I have seen your leak and adjusted the LC treat accordingly based on what we saw in UOA.

Bottom line is to fix it ASAP. That V10 is not cheap to rebuild !
 
pat.gif
Just what I expected you to say!
grin.gif

Fix the darn thing!
Mark

[ May 02, 2003, 10:06 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]
 
Oldswagon,
Back in January I sent Mobil the following question:
"Do any of the Mobil 1 motor oils clean better than another? I'm making lots of short trips on an extended drain interval & cleaning is more important than viscosity."

And their reply was:
"Delvac1 5W40 diesel synthetic motor oil has the most detergent and additives out of any synthetic product Mobil has available so it will do a good job of cleaning your motor and keeping it clean."

A comparison of mikeyoilnutt's VOAs shows almost identical additives between the D1 & D1300S (with D1300S having some moly & less boron), & Pennzoil's Long Life being a little different with lots of moly & calcium but no mag (Blackstone did the two Delvacs, & OAI did the Pennz):
code:

Delvac 1 Delvac 1300 Pennzoil LL

5W-40 15W-40 15W-40

Aluminum 1ppm 1ppm 0ppm

Chromium 0ppm 0ppm 0ppm

Iron 2ppm 2ppm 0ppm

Copper 0ppm 0ppm 0ppm

Lead 0ppm 0ppm 0ppm

Tin 0ppm 0ppm 0ppm

Molybdenum 0ppm 35ppm 128ppm

Nickel 0ppm 0ppm 0ppm

Manganese 0ppm 0ppm N/A

Silver 0ppm 0ppm 0ppm

Titanium 0ppm 0ppm 0ppm

Potassium 0ppm 0ppm 0ppm

Boron 154ppm 61ppm 91ppm

Silicon 6ppm 6ppm 0ppm

Sodium 1ppm 1ppm 0ppm

Calcium 2107ppm 2195ppm 3051ppm

Magnesium 421ppm 419ppm 0ppm

Phosphorus 1090ppm 1120ppm 1001ppm

Zinc 1216ppm 1231ppm 1206ppm

Barium 0ppm 0ppm 0ppm

SUS Visc@210F 78.6 81.5 cSt-15.11

Flashpoint 425F 405F N/A

Insolubles 0.0 Trace N/A



Bob's got a good description of "How This Works" here.

BTW, Mobil's data sheets may be off again, as they currently show the 15W-40 with the same -33C/-27F Pour Point they had on the previous sheets, but they now have the 10W-30 at -30C/-22F (warmer than 15W-40?) while the previous sheets showed -39C/-38F.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Greg Netzner:
Oldswagon,

BTW, Mobil's data sheets may be off again, as they currently show the 15W-40 with the same -33C/-27F Pour Point they had on the previous sheets, but they now have the 10W-30 at -30C/-22F (warmer than 15W-40?) while the previous sheets showed -39C/-38F.


I noticed the pour points on the Delvac as well. I was wondering why the 10W30 had a higher pour point thant the 15W40? In any case I am not sure if I can even get Delvac 10W30 locally. The stores that carry Delvac only have the 15W40. One of the parts stores here in town is a Pennzoil dealer, so he should be able to order in the 10W30 Long Life. I am pretty sure he only stocks the 15W40 Long Life.

I checked the dealers pages for Schaeffers Oil and I found there is a Canadian sales rep, albeit on the other side of the country. I emailed the rep for a price on Neutra, as without the exchange it might not be so bad. It's too bad there isn't a Canadian distributor for Auto-RX. I really would like to try the stuff, but it's just too expensive. I figure if the Neutra is not too bad in price, that along with the HD oils should probably clean out my old V8's well.

[ May 03, 2003, 01:46 PM: Message edited by: Oldswagon ]
 
Hi,just bought couple gallons Delvac-1 at Freightliner at $21 each. Glad to hear it's a good ongoing cleaner. I use to just add Marvel Mysterious Oil to keep things moving along. Also threw MMO in the gas like WD-40. However, stopped that as it might rot the injector o-rings.I still like that old can & label.
Ron
grin.gif
 
Wow, gone for 4 days and i get lots of responses. Ok, well i talked to my friend. We are gonna use Delo or Delvac 15W-40 to clean it naturally. His dad uses 20W50 so 15W40 isnt a big problem. (im assuming)
 
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