Dumping Factory Oil Fill Early ?

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Right or wrongly - in my new (at the time) Hyundai 2017 Sonata 2.4L DI (non - turbo) , I dumped the factory fill at 750 miles and replaced with a syn- blend and ran that 3K miles . After that I have only run synthetic oils (M1, PP , QSUD , etc.) My question is did I do the right thing for this engine with my protocol / process ? ... MInd you Corvettes and other high end sports cars get shipped from the factory with synthetic oil in them , so there goes the theory that I should have used PYB conventional oil for the first 10K miles of the engines life ... *So which camp re you in and why ? Leave the factory fill in and use conventional oil for several thousand miles Or dump the factory fill early and then go to a syn - blend or synthetic oil after that ?
 
Supercar FF and subsequent maintenance might have little to do with your Hyundai's needs.

I'm in the camp that prays the manufacturer does and recommends the correct thing and not some hazardous abbreviation of maintenance in order to make costs-of-operation look better on paper.

This is a sore topic to be sure.
1) Occasionally we see metal dust and bits in break-in oil.
So why don't they have super severe "break in oil filters" which you change at 500 mi.?

2) Do auto makers even reference break in beyond the "watch your top speed" caveats?
I can see them avoiding the subject as the average car buyer is not equipped to understand.
 
I've never changed oil early on a new vehicle. Went the OM OCI. Last time I remember oil getting dumped early was with my dad's new '56 Ford. The OM said drain break-in oil at 500 miles and it was a courtesy oil change from the dealer (along with an inspection to make sure nothing was coming loose (Ford)). The 500 mile oil change was common in the 50's and 60's.

Synthetic oil can be installed into your vehicle when you get home from the dealer after purchase. Today's machining is not yesterday machining tolerances.
 
I leave the factory fill in for 3,000 miles or 5,000 miles if it’s synthetic. Then continue that interval for every change after that. Never heard of a break in oil change till I joined this forum. I’m surprised something from 2017 can run on conventional though I know our 2017 Camry only takes synthetic. I like conventional oil and unfortunately it’s hard to find these days.
 
I'm in the early OCI camp, first OCI around 1000 miles or so. With the drain pan in the sunlight it's easy to see the shiny metallic particles in the oil. I don't see that on subsequent OCI's.
I refill with synthetic and use my regular 6000 mile OCI after that.
Have done this for 3+ decades now.
 
I've always changed FF and filters at 500 and 1,500 miles. I always cut open the oil filter and spread the pleats. For my E46 I actually found a narrow, 1/2 long chunk of gasket material inside!

If it's a manual trans, same thing. You cannot believe the amount of metal shavings that drain out of a new manual transmission! And because a manual trans is not a pressurized lubrication system - no filter - the early oil change is probably even more important for the trans than it is for the engine.

Scott
 
I leave the factory fill in for 3,000 miles or 5,000 miles if it’s synthetic. Then continue that interval for every change after that. Never heard of a break in oil change till I joined this forum. I’m surprised something from 2017 can run on conventional though I know our 2017 Camry only takes synthetic. I like conventional oil and unfortunately it’s hard to find these days.
I guess you were not here when PYB was the gold standard not long ago.
 
I'm in the change the factory fill/filter early crowd also. I think I bumped my current car up to 1,500 miles. After reading the recent thread about the factory filter with no center tube, it makes one cringe a bit, but that is a very rare occurrence.
 
I think you will be able to get it at hardware stores like ACE or tractor places
Why not a Semi Syn HM oil- I doubt your gaskets would leak and you get a superior product.
My Ace seems to be closing out PYB even in the straight grades. I use semi synthetic in the Escape and occasionally in dads car but that’s about it. The beetle will definitely worse if you put anything other than conventional in there and I have never seen a synthetic 20W-50.
 
My Ace seems to be closing out PYB even in the straight grades. I use semi synthetic in the Escape and occasionally in dads car but that’s about it. The beetle will definitely worse if you put anything other than conventional in there and I have never seen a synthetic 20W-50.
Here ACE sells its black and red bottle brand- even straight 30
 
Since it’s almost supper time back your way check out the Blaines Farm and Fleet store near you. They have plain motor oil.
We have Rural King not Blaines though. Rural King still has regular oil and I plan to buy whatever they have next time I’m there. Tractor Supply has it as well. Got to stock up while it’s still available.
 
My Ace seems to be closing out PYB even in the straight grades. I use semi synthetic in the Escape and occasionally in dads car but that’s about it. The beetle will definitely worse if you put anything other than conventional in there and I have never seen a synthetic 20W-50.
Syn motorcycle oil 20-50 made for air cooled engines SM rated.
 
For me it depends if the factory fill is actually a break-in oil. Since most engines get a significant run before installation, I doubt many manufacturers are using a break-in oil as factory fill. But I heard Honda is still doing this.
Anyway, if the factory fill is actually a break-in oil, I would run it about 60-70% of the normal service interval, then change slightly early to a full synthetic. If the factory fill is NOT a break-in oil, I would run it about 30-40% of the normal interval and then do an early first change and go to a full syn.
 
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