Drive type, does it matter?

Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
4,320
Location
Kansas, USA
Did the MSF last weekend and starting to look at bikes. Yeah the old Yamaha CV80 isn't going to cut it very long. Loved the 250cc Yamaha vmax in class, gotta say I might of started having too much fun in the obstacles. I've somewhat narrowed it down to the Yamaha Vmax 650 and Honda Rebel 750. I know the 650's I've looked at are shaft drives but some of the 750's are chain. Although some 750's might be shaft drive I can't tell. I've found a couple yellow Rebel's I like but those appear to be chain's,

Is drive type something I should worry about for a beginner bike? Don't really want to mess with a chain, but then again I have plenty of chain pedal driven bikes.

Figured those bikes would be good starter, good for a couple hours and small jaunts for the wife and I (eventually.. need to more seat time for that). In 8 years it'll be a Goldwing.
 
older shaft driven bikes were known for "jacking" BUT newer ones are said to be better. never had a shaft driven bike or rode one but cleaner aka belt drives are a plus as well as longer life + lest adjusting. when you think you found what you want check the forums for your specific model for the most info. happy + safe riding as weather is finally getting better
 
My preference is shaft, belt, chain.

Shaft you loose a lot more power to the drivetrain, more weight to the bike, and usually higher cost. Also as mentioned, older shaft drive bikes can have "shaft jacking" issues, but newer ones have better suspension that has pretty much eliminated that.
The plus is only need to change the rear fluid every 10-20,000 miles, is very quiet, and usually lasts the life of the bike.

Belt is better power than shaft, still pretty quiet, lighter than a shaft or chain, and no real cost penalty when buying the bike.
Biggest con is come replacement time, some bikes have to have most of the rear end taken apart (but that may be 50,000 miles or more).

Chain is cheap, can change sprocket size to adjust gearing and least power loss.
Many cons include maintenance such as oiling, cleaning, adjusting etc... (new o-ring chains for street bikes are much better though), chain and sprocket wear/replacement, and noise.

A lot comes down to what kind of bike and size bike you are buying.
Few bikes < 500 CC come with anything but a chain, mainly due to cost and power.
Large cruiser and touring bikes tend to be shaft or belt.
The mid size marked is a mishmash of all 3.
 
I disagree that newer shaft bikes are fine. While they do a much better job of eliminating shaft jacking, the design of a shaft still sends engine torque to force the weight of your bike opposite of rotation while cornering. So the bike will lean differently from left to right, specifically on throttle or modulated throttle. It's probably why shafts are typically only on big, heavy, slow bikes.
 
Did the MSF last weekend and starting to look at bikes. Yeah the old Yamaha CV80 isn't going to cut it very long. Loved the 250cc Yamaha vmax in class, gotta say I might of started having too much fun in the obstacles. I've somewhat narrowed it down to the Yamaha Vmax 650 and Honda Rebel 750. I know the 650's I've looked at are shaft drives but some of the 750's are chain. Although some 750's might be shaft drive I can't tell. I've found a couple yellow Rebel's I like but those appear to be chain's,

Is drive type something I should worry about for a beginner bike? Don't really want to mess with a chain, but then again I have plenty of chain pedal driven bikes.

Figured those bikes would be good starter, good for a couple hours and small jaunts for the wife and I (eventually.. need to more seat time for that). In 8 years it'll be a Goldwing.
All good points made here, and while the effect of the final drive on the feel of the bike really is personal preference, another factor is your budget for maintenance, and how much maintenance you want to do yourself.

A chain secondary does require occasional lubrication and adjustment; if your sprockets are in good shape and you use a premium quality O-ring or X-ring chain, it's not a frequent adjustment and it is easy to do. It is comparatively inexpensive and easy to change chain and sprockets as part of a scheduled maintenance program, and if the chain goes bad on the road they are widely available and very easy to replace if necessary.

On the shaft drives, if you're just changing final drive oil this is not a big deal, but if (like BMWs) the bike requires regular drive spline lubrication and it needs to be disassembled to accomplish this, that might be worth thinking about. It can get expensive quick. Worth checking on before buying.

The concern about shaft jacking varies with the bike. Some were terrible, some are almost unnoticeable.

The advantage to shaft drive is reliability, and while it might be a little high-maintenance in the shop two or three times a year, it's no-maintenance on the road, which can be quite a benefit on long trips.

Belt drive is quiet, clean, and the maintenance is typically much less frequent than chain drive and somewhat more frequent than shaft drive. As was pointed out here already, sometimes the swingarm has to come off to change the belt, and this can be very expensive.

What has not been mentioned, and is a serious consideration depending upon where you are in the country and what kinds of roads you ride on, is if a pebble gets in between the belt and the pulley this can become even more expensive. Sometimes it's no big deal, the pebble gets pushed through the center of the belt and you just keep riding. And sometimes it happens at the edge of the belt and you need a belt replacement. Which can be a problem depending upon where and when it happens.

And sometimes the pebble doesn't go all the way through the belt, it just keeps going around embedded in the belt destroying the pulley teeth. Now in addition to the disassembly to get to the belt you are also buying a set of pulleys. If there is a belt drive bike you like it would be worth talking with a mechanic familiar with that particular model about what's involved.

While final drive is an important factor worth considering carefully according to your circumstances, it's just one of many. If you like everything else about the bike, then the final drive might not be a deciding factor.
 
I disagree that newer shaft bikes are fine. While they do a much better job of eliminating shaft jacking, the design of a shaft still sends engine torque to force the weight of your bike opposite of rotation while cornering. So the bike will lean differently from left to right, specifically on throttle or modulated throttle. It's probably why shafts are typically only on big, heavy, slow bikes.
Yamaha VMAX, V65 Magna, the 160 HP BMW K1600GT, big and heavy maybe but slow bikes?
 
I'm pretty much done with motorcycles I think. Too many distracted drivers on the road. All my bikes were 500cc or less and all were chain drive. Never had a problem with them.

And even on older bikes, drivetrain malfunctions are pretty rare on road bikes (as opposed to dirt bikes obviously). It takes a lot of miles to wear out a chain or belt, or shaft.

So if I were to buy again, drive type would be pretty far down my list of priorities. Ahead of it would be type of bike (looks like you're leaning towards cruisers), build quality and user serviceability (I would never allow anyone else to work on my bikes, exception being mounting tires), power, range, ergonomics, lighting etc.

And I think it should look beautiful to you! When walking away if you're not looking over your shoulder at it, pick a different bike.
 
Did the MSF last weekend and starting to look at bikes. Yeah the old Yamaha CV80 isn't going to cut it very long. Loved the 250cc Yamaha vmax in class, gotta say I might of started having too much fun in the obstacles. I've somewhat narrowed it down to the Yamaha Vmax 650 and Honda Rebel 750. I know the 650's I've looked at are shaft drives but some of the 750's are chain. Although some 750's might be shaft drive I can't tell. I've found a couple yellow Rebel's I like but those appear to be chain's,

Is drive type something I should worry about for a beginner bike? Don't really want to mess with a chain, but then again I have plenty of chain pedal driven bikes.

Figured those bikes would be good starter, good for a couple hours and small jaunts for the wife and I (eventually.. need to more seat time for that). In 8 years it'll be a Goldwing.
I tend to think chain versus shaft drive only matters if you go hi miles.. if its like most motorcycle use and it might get a thousand miles a year, it wont matter.
 
Is drive type something I should worry about for a beginner bike?
Short answer... No. Don't worry about it.

Find a bike that you fit on and are comfortable with. Then buy that bike.

People have various opinions about shaft, belt and chain. In the end, they all propel the motorcycle and all are very reliable. I currently have a shaft bike and a chain bike. I've taken them both on long, multi-day trips. No problems with either bike. My friends have belt driven bikes. No problems with those either.
 
My preferences...

Belt = #1
Chain = #2
Shaft = #3

Yup, the shaft is less maintenance, but it does have negative drive effects...jacking, and uneven lean characteristics. I really like belt drive, as there is less slop and cleaner. Obviously chain is king for performance, but it is messy. I have owned several models of all three different options.
 
Short answer... No. Don't worry about it.

Find a bike that you fit on and are comfortable with. Then buy that bike.

People have various opinions about shaft, belt and chain. In the end, they all propel the motorcycle and all are very reliable. I currently have a shaft bike and a chain bike. I've taken them both on long, multi-day trips. No problems with either bike. My friends have belt driven bikes. No problems with those either.

Well said.
 
Thanks everyone.. alot info to digest. Didn't think about the handling aspects, although with enough practice I bet that can be overcame. I wouldn't mind a belt but nothing in my price range has one. Unless I go to dad's I highly doubt it'll see anything gravel, mostly or all highway. As far as miles no idea on that, probably 1-2k. We have more vehicles, bicycles than I need and one scooter... so nothing tends to rack up miles fast. Below is a 02 Honda Shadow (borrowed from FB) I'm eyeballing enough probably shouldn't yet, that is one good looking machine.

honda.JPG
 
My preferences...

Belt = #1
Chain = #2
Shaft = #3

Yup, the shaft is less maintenance, but it does have negative drive effects...jacking, and uneven lean characteristics. I really like belt drive, as there is less slop and cleaner. Obviously chain is king for performance, but it is messy. I have owned several models of all three different options.
Says the man with a shaft and a chain driven motorcycle ;)
Thanks everyone.. alot info to digest. Didn't think about the handling aspects, although with enough practice I bet that can be overcame. I wouldn't mind a belt but nothing in my price range has one. Unless I go to dad's I highly doubt it'll see anything gravel, mostly or all highway. As far as miles no idea on that, probably 1-2k. We have more vehicles, bicycles than I need and one scooter... so nothing tends to rack up miles fast. Below is a 02 Honda Shadow (borrowed from FB) I'm eyeballing enough probably shouldn't yet, that is one good looking machine.

View attachment 155513
I had a '94 1100 Shadow, and regret selling it to this date.
It was a perfect around town/short distance travel bike for me.

222222.JPG
 
My preferences...

Belt = #1
Chain = #2
Shaft = #3

Yup, the shaft is less maintenance, but it does have negative drive effects...jacking, and uneven lean characteristics. I really like belt drive, as there is less slop and cleaner. Obviously chain is king for performance, but it is messy. I have owned several models of all three different options.
yeah, the belt like on a Harley lasts more than 100k miles.. I've had one snap prematurely, in a dealers parking lot no less. they warranted it, even though the bike was 4 years old... the other one I had that broke had about 150,000 miles on it, but we suspect a bungee cord put a hole in it... on my 2001 bike the friggin belt was ancient, and I was riding the bike and it started jerking... about half the teeth had came off the belt at the point. :) I still dont think it matters too much which drive a bike has, unless you go thousands of miles per year, then the chain is the weakest of the 3 drive choices.
 
I don't mean straight line acceleration. I mean actual fast bikes.
With that reasoning a AA funny car is a not actually a fast car? LOL A Pan European (ST1100/ST1300) was a genuinely fast bike that was shaft driven, a sport touring bike but fast enough for sure.
 
Chains are a pain... shafts are heavy and expensive... Gates cog tooth belts are the premium drive when it matters...

Lightest weight...
1 belt
2 chain
3 shaft

Best efficiency...
1 belt
2 chain
3 shaft

Lowest maintenance...
1 belt
2 shaft
3 chain

Most expensive...
1 shaft
2 belt
2 chain

Least amount of drive line snatch...
1 belt
2 shaft
3 chain

Biggest vocal following...
1 shaft
2 chain
3 belt

Back in 1986 when Mary and I attended the Daytona 200... I asked
all of Honda's HRC Engineers was it possible to belt drive THEIR
VF500F Interceptor... they stated to me that it was *impossible* to
add a belt drive to a exiting model... I would need to design the
whole bike around the belt... OK I thought... they are the experts...
maybe I should call it quits... but I just could not stop thinking
about the problem... I had to solved it... when I showed the same
engineers my success they nodded affirmative ask what was I going to
do next??? build my own frame I answered... they replied that I
probably would be successful with that conversion as well...

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ce5BVi3.jpg


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