drain plug overtightened at china mart

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i had a new magnetic DP and i still could not get it off so i had to take it back to CM, they were last ones to change oil...i mostly change my own oil now and i was wondering if anyone else has this problem from quickie lubes/ stealerships?...anytime i put in DP it comes off fairly easy, there is no need to yard on it when tightening
 
What vehicle/engine?
WM tightens to vehicle torque spec. Some of them are fairly hefty 25ftlbs and up so will seem over tightened.
 
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My dad had a free oil change coupon for his Suburban at the dealer about a year ago. When I went to change it I had to use my improvised breaker bar (a 3 foot metal pole on the ratchet) to loosen it. It was obviously put on with an impact wrench. I've told him to not bother going there for an oil change ever again.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
What vehicle/engine?
WM tightens to vehicle torque spec. Some of them are fairly hefty 25ftlbs and up so will seem over tightened.


Believe it or not, I watched them one day do this (not on my car!). I'm not saying they all follow the rules.

Now my duramax drain plug is 62 ft-lbs which is definitely tough to get off with a wrench.
 
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drain plug is 62 ft-lb? Sure about that? What is it, a really large bolt?

I dont put it past places to overtighten... Just because a torque wrench is used doesnt mean that it isnt applied wrong, the wrong value obtained, etc.

And that said, the plug, gasket and pan can really seize together too, causing it to feel like excessive tightness when that maybe isnt the case...
 
I don't know what Wal-Mart does as "company policy," but irrespective of that, I'd still watch the individual tech very carefully.

On a broader level, this can be a serious issue, more so in some vehicles than others. I drove an 88 Civic which I bought new for over 10 years, and did most of the OCs myself, or watching the tech directly. Overall this was a great car, but I managed to overtorque the drain plug several times (I'm not blaming anyone but myself for the cost of this lesson...). The end result was that I fatigued the threads in the oil pan, which started a leak, and eventually required replacing the pan. Ouch -- kiss all the DIY savings goodbye.

Drain plug torque is something worth watching, and making sure that it's at least reasonably close to correct. Too far wrong in either direction, and sooner or later, problems (expensive ones) are sure to follow.
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62 ft/lbs !!!
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My 07 D-Max drain plug is taken on and off with a 3/8's drive ratchet, and I just snug it.
 
They have a manager check off on plug torque.

Of course if the spec is 20 and the guy did 60, the manager's wrench will click, and all will be "okay".
 
Why would a drain plug ever need to be that tight? If it threads properly and has the correct seat and/or gasket, just tightening the plug bolt by feel with an experienced hand should be more than enough to keep fluid from leaking past it or having it back out. I'd rather risk having a slow leak that can be easily fixed with a wrench than a stripped or cross-threaded plug hole. Tighter isn't always better!

Shame how everyone's first priority is covering their butts nowadays in our sue-crazy society.
 
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And that said, the plug, gasket and pan can really seize together too, causing it to feel like excessive tightness when that maybe isnt the case...


They sure can, I just did an oil change over the weekend. I usually use either a 3/8 ratchet or a wrench and hand tighten the plug. This time it was harder to unbolt than usual, but still nowhere near to being over tightened and the threads look new.
 
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Why would a drain plug ever need to be that tight? If it threads properly and has the correct seat and/or gasket, just tightening the plug bolt by feel with an experienced hand should be more than enough to keep fluid from leaking past it or having it back out. I'd rather risk having a slow leak that can be easily fixed with a wrench than a stripped or cross-threaded plug hole. Tighter isn't always better!

Shame how everyone's first priority is covering their butts nowadays in our sue-crazy society.

Thats the thing, most of them are not experienced hands. So, to cover themselves and prevent some newb from really wrenching on it, they use the factory torque spec.
And yes, the duramax plug is 62ftlbs.
I dont know why, that is the factory spec.
On contrast, many Fords are 10ftlbs.
 
Originally Posted By: shrooms
Install a Fumoto oil valve and never worry about overtightened again.


Unfortunately, that is ONLY true if you tell them about it AND explain it to them EVERY time you take it to a quick lube place (or any other place for that matter) - I say that from experience because I did have a Fumoto valve on my car and took it to Jiffy Lube and they actually removed the Fumoto valve because they couldn't figure it out. (!)
 
Ive taken my car to a place to have the oil change and hurt my hand trying to take the thing off. Both my cars call for 10 ft.lbs
 
My two Honda vehicles use a disposable washer on the drain plug and requires a little more torque to prevent leaks. I've never had a problem with leaks since I started torquing the drain plug to spec -> 29 lb-ft for the Aluminum oil pan and 33 lb-ft for the steel oil pan. The two other vehicles that I maintain have drain plugs with an integral rubber gasket. They don't require as much torque, only 19 lb-ft.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
What vehicle/engine?
WM tightens to vehicle torque spec. Some of them are fairly hefty 25ftlbs and up so will seem over tightened.

Yes, WM tightens to factory spec...and doesn't replace the plug washer. Which means it's a meaningless act.
 
I have a Fumoto oil valve on my civic and a Fram Sure Drain on the others. I do my own oil changes and never have to worry about torques any more.
 
If the drain plug uses a gasket, there is no reason to tighten it much, as there won't be a leak as long as the plug doesn't come off. Even the factory specs is usually too much torque, especially considering that there will be oil on the threads, which results in overtightening when you apply the specified dry-thread torque.

Just tighten it gently until it becomes hard to compress the gasket.

It might be a good idea to use a torque wrench for gasketless plug.

I also always tighten the oil filter by hand and never use an oil-filter wrench when installing the oil filter.
 
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