Done changing oil

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As the title states. I'm done changing oil in my 2 year old Toro Recycler. It has become very obvious the Tecumseh flat head is going to outlast the mower by far. The mower is aging very fast and I just don't see the point in ever changing the oil at this point. It currently has a fill of Mobil1 15w50 from the end of last season and from here on out it will see top ups only.

Moral of the story... unless your buying a professional grade mower the engine doesn't matter.
 
My dad ran his B&S engine on the same oil for 10 years and the engine survived. It has lower compression and burns a bit of oil but will still take your foot off given the chance!
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I think you will be fine...
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
will still take your foot off given the chance!

which we know is the true test of a mowers performance!
a mechanic friend of mine told me his philosophy on mower oil changes was, he doesn't.
I checked mine (3yr old 4.75hp B&S) the other day, oil still golden, almost clear. air filter needs to be changed, though.
 
Personally, I would consider topping up the oil weekly more of a hassle than changing it annually.
 
What if you're driving down the road and see a brand new mower sitting out with the trash - the deck is spotless, however the motor threw a rod? All it takes is four bolts and viola - you've got yourself a new mower with your trusty old tecumseh. I'd spend the extra $3.00/season on the engine just in case this or a similar situation comes to pass.

Good call on the 15W-50 though, it's a stout oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
What if you're driving down the road and see a brand new mower sitting out with the trash

I used a B&D electric I found in the trash for a good 4 years or so. I figured, what could go wrong w/ an electric mower to cause someone to throw it out? sure enough, it worked fine. even found 5 brand new OEM blades for it on ebay for $5. eventually the motor started making noises and finally seized up. then I discovered they aren't exactly maintenance friendly and I had to get rid of it.
people throw out perfectly useful things all them time, you just have to keep your eyes open on garbage day!
 
Originally Posted By: Gilitar
As the title states. I'm done changing oil in my 2 year old Toro Recycler. It has become very obvious the Tecumseh flat head is going to outlast the mower by far. The mower is aging very fast and I just don't see the point in ever changing the oil at this point. It currently has a fill of Mobil1 15w50 from the end of last season and from here on out it will see top ups only.

Moral of the story... unless your buying a professional grade mower the engine doesn't matter.


What do you mean by the mower is aging very fast??
 
I still like to change my oil.... it takes 5 minutes and uses 1/2 a quart, what more of a reason to NOT change it?

I change my oil every year and once let it go two years, yes it still comes looking golden BUT, I can smell fuel in it and it get water condensation in it.

IMO its is worth the 5 minutes and $1.50 (House Brand SAE30) to get the water and fule out of the oil. If you are shapening your blades that day anyway, then it takes only 2 minutes for and oil change.
 
I agree. Pull the oil cap, tip the mower over, and change the blade and oil at the beginning of the season. Its 2 birds with one stone. Rather have the engine running with no issues when the deck rusts out or the tranny [censored] out. It takes 1/2 quart and will run fine on almost anything. My $.02
 
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We'll see. The self propelled drive is starting to develop noises, the cables are wearing, and the wheels are wearing.
 
Originally Posted By: mpvue
Originally Posted By: StevieC
will still take your foot off given the chance!

which we know is the true test of a mowers performance!
a mechanic friend of mine told me his philosophy on mower oil changes was, he doesn't.
I checked mine (3yr old 4.75hp B&S) the other day, oil still golden, almost clear. air filter needs to be changed, though.

I have the same engine on a Craftsman self propel mower, the engine is bullet proof but makes me wish I bought a 6+hp engine instead. Anyway I change the oil every spring with Craftsman small engine oil. I run it probably 30 hours a year, and the oil comes out golden every spring...
 
Originally Posted By: Superbuick96
Originally Posted By: StevieC
will still take your foot off given the chance!
I have the same engine on a Craftsman self propel mower, the engine is bullet proof but makes me wish I bought a 6+hp engine instead. ...


You want to take off both feet eh?
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You want fresh oil in the engine over the winter. Start changing the oil after your last mow in the Fall.
 
No you want fresh oil just before the lawn season. Oil sitting in the engine all winter will collect moisture and oxidize the oil.

Before starting it up in the new season, drain and refill with fresh oil.

FWIW: My JD manual even says this...

Old oil sitting at the bottom of the sump isn't going to hurt anything, but fresh oil that hasn't been exposed to oxidation will definitely protect better IMO
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Originally Posted By: Gilitar
As the title states. I'm done changing oil in my 2 year old Toro Recycler. It has become very obvious the Tecumseh flat head is going to outlast the mower by far. The mower is aging very fast and I just don't see the point in ever changing the oil at this point. It currently has a fill of Mobil1 15w50 from the end of last season and from here on out it will see top ups only.

Moral of the story... unless your buying a professional grade mower the engine doesn't matter.

I was recently contracted to work on issues concerning the life of lawn mower engines. My client is trying to upgrade conventional lawn mowers to commercial (professional) grade, by increasing the number of hours it is qualified to run. One thing I'm seeing is that the oil has a huge effect on the life of the engine. Thicker is better. And definitely change it regularly.
 
Without revealing too much, this involves engines in the 10-HP range. Life testing is done with 10W-30 oil at elevated temperatures, and we're seeing spalling on the crank roller bearings that appears to be from poor lubrication. We believe that heavier lube such as a straight 30W or 40W would be more appropriate for the conditions.

After reading a few of the posts here and how people treat their small engines, maybe I should recommend beefing up some of the lubed parts!
 
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