2013 Grand Cherokee 4x4 with 65RFE auto transmission. 47,000 miles. Was a bit concerned lately with it shifting gears a little hard, and it also shifts into drive a bit hard when fluid is cool. I checked ATF level on level ground with engine running after a long drive in 100 degree weather, and it was between the "hot" and "cold" zones of dipstick. Fluid is still bright red. Topped it off right in the center of the "hot" marks and I swore it shifted smoother and reacted to throttle input better than before. Still gotta let it cool overnight and see if it shifts smoother when fluid is cold. Are automatic transmissions that picky, or is this just a Chrysler thing that I gotta live with?
Does ATF have to be in "Hot" zone of dipstick for best performance?
- Thread starter Loobit
- Start date
Put another way- does the transmission have to have the correct fluid level to operate correctly? Well...yes. It does.
When it’s that hot, the fluid expands, so, yeah, your fluid level was LOW when using the correct measurement range (hot zone) for the temperature of the fluid.
When it’s that hot, the fluid expands, so, yeah, your fluid level was LOW when using the correct measurement range (hot zone) for the temperature of the fluid.
And yes I used ATF+4. Thanks for the reply. This transmission was also serviced at the Jeep dealer at 30k. Probably didn't add enough top off fluid or checked it wrong.
They probably didn’t....
I can’t speak directly for your Jeep but on some of my cars, the best check, the most consistent check, was with the fluid hot using the hot zone on the dipstick. A real pain, because I always managed to singe my arm reaching down for that dipstick, but hot level checks seemd to give better results than cold level checks.
I can’t speak directly for your Jeep but on some of my cars, the best check, the most consistent check, was with the fluid hot using the hot zone on the dipstick. A real pain, because I always managed to singe my arm reaching down for that dipstick, but hot level checks seemd to give better results than cold level checks.
Automatic transmission fluid level is important. Get yourself a Dorman Dipstick for Chrysler products. IIRC it comes with a temperature chart, if not they're all over the web. If your EVIC gives temperature readings, you're golden, all you have to do is match the reading on the dipstick to the transmission fluid temperature and look at the chart. You'll know for certain if the level is correct. If you don't have the EVIC which gives transmission fluid temperatures PM me and I'll walk you through making a probe.
Actually my shop has that Dorman dipstick with all the charts, and the Jeep has an EVIC that shows lots of gauges. Vehicle already has its own ATF dipstick though. I know I've seen other FCA vehicles that have an ATF tube with no dipstick and I had to use the Dorman. It works! I've used it on a few Dodge Caravans. Maybe I'll check it out anyway!
I found it to be more accurate than the dipstick my 2016 Wrangler has.
I'm not familiar with that particular dipstick but Nissan/Infiniti has (2) separate ranges on their AT dipsticks. Cold on one side, hot on the other. And by "ranges", I mean distinct hash mark segments about 1/4" long or so. I check mine after a good, long drive (at least 30 minutes with highway speeds included). The engine bay gets nice and toasty, plus the dipstick is behind the engine and lower than the valve cover area so you're guaranteed to get burnt reaching back there to remove the bolt that secures the dipstick !
That sounds the same as the Chrysler dipstick. Thankfully, Jeep thought about the small things and put a bright yellow ATF dipstick in reach above the engine. I think it should be red though, but FCA insists on OSHA yellow for everything, even windshield washer fluid.
I agree.
This is how I was taught many eons ago to check ATF.
When you look at the inside of an automatic transmission you will find the filter is the pickup and it is located near the bottom of the pan. I have often wondered how a minor variation in the fluid level would make any significant difference. Does anyone have an explanation??
It might have to do with the angle of the vehicle, like on a steep grade. The fluid may not be at the right level in these situations. Another problem I had and forgot to mention was the transmission not downshifting gears when I was driving up a grade at full throttle. It stayed lugging at 2000 RPM, which is really bad for rod bearings! Hope it never does that again.
Upon my cool morning test drive the day after I added fluid, it shifted into drive much better, and downshifted properly at full throttle (engine warmed up of course). Happy to see it running better.
The “hot” zone is the acceptable operating temp and the proper temperature for a fluid check. The “cold” zone is to ensure there is a minimum fill to safely drive from a dead, cold start to fill the torque converter and operate the valve body.
I agree with the above statement. Low temp level marks are just for quick but safe fill. Then you need to drive it, and check again with the hot temperature marks. Service Manuals state that.
Dealership people sometimes don't do the warm-up test, requires too much time to drive. They are on a tight clock to be profitable.
Dealership people sometimes don't do the warm-up test, requires too much time to drive. They are on a tight clock to be profitable.
That's what I've always suspected. If fluid shows up on the dipstick in that (cold) range, it's a safe, starting point.