Does anyone still make 2 Cycle Push Mowers?

JTK

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... I now have a Snapper Commercial self propelled with the Robin 6 HP engine.
What a beast very heavy and well made. It even has steel wheels with greasable bearings. This thing will drag me if I let it. Very smooth and great to use. It will cut through foot tall grass without slowing down. It have a 3 stage air filter and oil filter with pressure lubrication. I haven't used it lately as I now live on a 1 acre yard and needed a rider. If anyone is interested let me know I live near Louisville KY. Would love someone else to be able to put it to use.
Nice! Aluminum deck or steel?

I have a 2011 model year Snapper ninja commercial 21", but it's got the 180cc briggs "professional series" engine w/ spin on oil filter, etc. Heavy steel deck.

Like you say, it's a beast and heavy, but the oil school snapper disk drive will scoot it along at running speed if you want it to.
 
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Nice! Aluminum deck or steel?

I have a 2011 model year Snapper ninja commercial 21", but it's got the 180cc briggs "professional series" engine w/ spin on oil filter, etc. Heavy steel deck.

Like you say, it's a beast and heavy, but the oil school snapper disk drive will scoot it along at running speed if you want it to.
It is aluminum deck but very heavy. It is a very heavy engine well built.
 
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Nice! Aluminum deck or steel?

I have a 2011 model year Snapper ninja commercial 21", but it's got the 180cc briggs "professional series" engine w/ spin on oil filter, etc. Heavy steel deck.

Like you say, it's a beast and heavy, but the oil school snapper disk drive will scoot it along at running speed if you want it to.
Also mine is not the disc drive. I had a residential model that had it and it was good. Mine has both rear wheels spinning at the same time. Great for climbing hills but harder to turn.
 
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bunnspecial

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The #40 jet is used on some kind of Mikuni carb but fits lawnboys. I have owned a few duraforces and all of them reacted differently to re-jetting. I currently have a 10323 and a 22261. I use a #40 in the 10323, a #42 makes it “ 4 stroke” too much. The 22261 needed no jet changes, it has a slight “ burble “ with the stock 37.5 pilot jet.

The duraforce is also used in Toro sno commander snow throwers too. They run upwards of 4100 rpm and internally are the same as the lawnmower engine except they are piston ported vs the reed valve in the mower.

I ran an several gallons of gas through an old, tired, slightly scored up duraforce at 36-3700 rpms and nothing bad happened, so definitely don’t be afraid of 3300 rpms.

Alright, I cranked the governor up to 3400rpms and set out mowing yesterday.

I think I made a mistake, though, in not letting it get warm enough as by the time I finished it was wanting to run at 3700-3800, and would even bounce a bit around 4K when settling down after going through a thick patch(I dropped my cut height a bit also so was working it a bit harder). I actually ended up manually throttling it back to hold it around 3300-3400, and just preemptively cranking it up a bit when I knew I'd be straining it. So, looks like I'm going to be setting the governor back a little more.

I'm also tempted to try the #40 jet.

Right now I'm cutting the next door neighbor's yard also, which is smaller than ours, but I'm guessing I'm doing about 3/4 of an acre total. My last few times, I had gas left over in the tank(on the mower) after doing both-in fact enough that I was able to do about half the neighbor's(a smaller lot) before running dry. This time, I checked when I was close to finished and I could see the bottom of the tank, so added a bit more(Ideally I'd store empty if I could, but I compromise by flipping the shut-off valve when I'm close to finished and then run it until it dies so I have a mostly empty carb). Of course, the extra half inch of cut over normal will suck through a lot more gas, but I also had the bigger jet and faster governed speed this time. If I can save a bit of gas with a smaller jet without sacrificing performance, I'd do it.

It's not a HUGE deal since, at least as of now, I can make it through a full mow without refueling, which is good, and I seem to have it close to perfect to be able to use exactly one tank in a session and store empty. Still, though, that 2 gallon jug is ~$15 between gasoline and an 8 ounce bottle of oil, so I don't want to intentionally waste. Funny, I had another neighbor bending my ear not too long ago about how "wonderful" Tru-Fuel is and how it's "not that expensive". If my weedeater and blower were my only two stroke stuff, and I could get by on 1-2 quarts a year at $6 each, I'd not worry about it. It's $23/gallon from what I've seen, which is probably about 2 weeks of mowing for me. That shifts things a bit, plus I'm turning gas over fast enough for the mower that I'm not too worried about a 2 gallon can of E10 sitting around for ~4-6 weeks or so(especially considering that, for all their ills, the newfangled gas cans do actually seal really well).

I know I'm rambling a bit, and I know that there's a lot of 2 cycle oil discussion around here. For now, I'm sticking with the genuine Lawn-Boy brand oil, which either Toro still sells or at least there's still a bunch in the pipeline, as I've not had any troubled getting it(just bought 3 more 8 oz. bottles on Amazon for $4.50 each). I'm mixing at 32:1 as the mower says. I know most modern oils can be run at 40:1 or 50:1 without issue, but I figure no one ever did wrong by using the manufacturer-recommended oil at their mix ratio. My weedeater and blower are getting Supertech mixed at 50:1...which I know is probably fine in the mower too(and if I were running low and needed to finish for the day, or whatever other situation, I'd have no problem either cutting my 32:1 with some 50:1 or even running it 50:1 for a short session) but I want to keep the mower going as long as I can. Gas is down to ~$4.70 around here, so I think I'm going to be buying gas for everything tomorrow.
 
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Alright, I cranked the governor up to 3400rpms and set out mowing yesterday.

I think I made a mistake, though, in not letting it get warm enough as by the time I finished it was wanting to run at 3700-3800, and would even bounce a bit around 4K when settling down after going through a thick patch(I dropped my cut height a bit also so was working it a bit harder). I actually ended up manually throttling it back to hold it around 3300-3400, and just preemptively cranking it up a bit when I knew I'd be straining it. So, looks like I'm going to be setting the governor back a little more.

I'm also tempted to try the #40 jet.

Right now I'm cutting the next door neighbor's yard also, which is smaller than ours, but I'm guessing I'm doing about 3/4 of an acre total. My last few times, I had gas left over in the tank(on the mower) after doing both-in fact enough that I was able to do about half the neighbor's(a smaller lot) before running dry. This time, I checked when I was close to finished and I could see the bottom of the tank, so added a bit more(Ideally I'd store empty if I could, but I compromise by flipping the shut-off valve when I'm close to finished and then run it until it dies so I have a mostly empty carb). Of course, the extra half inch of cut over normal will suck through a lot more gas, but I also had the bigger jet and faster governed speed this time. If I can save a bit of gas with a smaller jet without sacrificing performance, I'd do it.

It's not a HUGE deal since, at least as of now, I can make it through a full mow without refueling, which is good, and I seem to have it close to perfect to be able to use exactly one tank in a session and store empty. Still, though, that 2 gallon jug is ~$15 between gasoline and an 8 ounce bottle of oil, so I don't want to intentionally waste. Funny, I had another neighbor bending my ear not too long ago about how "wonderful" Tru-Fuel is and how it's "not that expensive". If my weedeater and blower were my only two stroke stuff, and I could get by on 1-2 quarts a year at $6 each, I'd not worry about it. It's $23/gallon from what I've seen, which is probably about 2 weeks of mowing for me. That shifts things a bit, plus I'm turning gas over fast enough for the mower that I'm not too worried about a 2 gallon can of E10 sitting around for ~4-6 weeks or so(especially considering that, for all their ills, the newfangled gas cans do actually seal really well).

I know I'm rambling a bit, and I know that there's a lot of 2 cycle oil discussion around here. For now, I'm sticking with the genuine Lawn-Boy brand oil, which either Toro still sells or at least there's still a bunch in the pipeline, as I've not had any troubled getting it(just bought 3 more 8 oz. bottles on Amazon for $4.50 each). I'm mixing at 32:1 as the mower says. I know most modern oils can be run at 40:1 or 50:1 without issue, but I figure no one ever did wrong by using the manufacturer-recommended oil at their mix ratio. My weedeater and blower are getting Supertech mixed at 50:1...which I know is probably fine in the mower too(and if I were running low and needed to finish for the day, or whatever other situation, I'd have no problem either cutting my 32:1 with some 50:1 or even running it 50:1 for a short session) but I want to keep the mower going as long as I can. Gas is down to ~$4.70 around here, so I think I'm going to be buying gas for everything tomorrow.

How many clicks of the governor spring did you turn it up? I’ve made the same exact mistake before… you have to let it fully warm up before adjusting the rpms. My 10323 is very cold blooded, I can mow with it for 5 minutes before it reaches its full rpm.

09492-40011 is the part number to the #40 Suzuki pilot jet. They are expensive, 15-20 dollars but it is what it is.

Without getting into an oil war, you can absolutely run that mower on 50:1 if you want to keep one can for everything. I run mine at 64:1 using amsoil or 71:1 using the opti packets of oil. It significantly cuts down on the smell and you get little to no carbon buildup.

Look under the mower where the crank comes through the deck, and check to see if it’s oily there. That indicates a leaky bottom crank seal. You have to separate the case to change them but it’s not terrible.

If there’s anything else you need feel free to pm me, I’ll help you anyway I can.
 
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I never even knew a two cycle lawnmower was ever produced until recently. I’m young enough where I’ve never experienced or owned a two cycle push lawnmower, but I would love to own one someday. Maybe not even to use just to have is like a collectors or time piece or something 😂
 
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I never even knew a two cycle lawnmower was ever produced until recently. I’m young enough where I’ve never experienced or owned a two cycle push lawnmower, but I would love to own one someday. Maybe not even to use just to have is like a collectors or time piece or something 😂
They are quite a pleasure to use. Very light, lower vibration and extremely powerful.
 

bunnspecial

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How many clicks of the governor spring did you turn it up? I’ve made the same exact mistake before… you have to let it fully warm up before adjusting the rpms. My 10323 is very cold blooded, I can mow with it for 5 minutes before it reaches its full rpm.

To be honest-and I know this isn't a good answer-I didn't count. I was adjusting it with the engine running and using a screwdriver to "poke" it, so would do 2-3 at a time and see how it reacted then go up or down from there until I hit ~3200 cold.

Thanks for the Suzuki part number. The B&S was $10, and as much fun as it is to play around with I don't know that I want to keep throwing that much money at it...

I guess the other option if I want to REALLY dial it in is I take a stock jet(I have a few) and drill it out one size at a time until I get just enough to keep it from surging.
 
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I guess the other option if I want to REALLY dial it in is I take a stock jet(I have a few) and drill it out one size at a time until I get just enough to keep it from surging.

I hope you have better luck than I did with drilling them out. I ruined a couple of stock jets with the micro drill bits.
 

bunnspecial

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I hope you have better luck than I did with drilling them out. I ruined a couple of stock jets with the micro drill bits.

Thanks-

Honestly the more I think of it I don't really have a reason to mess with it now as it is running well on the #42.

I still want to rebuild my other 10323, but I don't know that I want to spend $100+ for a piston+rings or even $60 for rings to do it given that I can probably keep my eyes open and find a running/serviceable engine on a rotted deck for about the same(even though I know that would leave me with a rebuilt one).

I guess these E Duraforce engines just don't have the following of the F engines. Rings for F engines, both NOS and aftermarket, are plentiful and inexpensive. A lot of the E/Duraforce parts are just difficult if not impossible to find.
 
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